Rear axle bearing removal

[Cuerno Largo]

Working on my 1975 FJ40......trying to install the rear disc kit from Poser.

I did a search for rear axle bearing and found a few threads regarding removal of the rear axle bearing.

Unfortunately, I did the search after I have had trouble removing it without the SST in the manual. I see several threads regarding leaving the bearings in place if no trouble is evident since they are such a PITA to remove.

I have used a slide hammer (HF version) and was successful at breaking it apart and removing the bearings, but not the race so now I am committed. The axle housing is on the frame and differential is intact with the exception of the c clips removed and axles removed.

I have seen one thread about welding around the race and as it cools it will shrink enough to remove.

Any suggestions on proceeding? I have a mig and can weld it without burning through the race if that will work.

How about careful use of dremmel tool?

 

[Mark W]

I always remove these with the welding "trick".


Works great
every time
the bearing pratically falls out.


Lay a nice hot, fat bead all around the inner surface of the bearing race. It will shrink it up nicely.


Mark...

 

[Cuerno Largo]

Thanks Mark. I'll give it a shot tonight.

 

[Cuerno Largo]

Well, being a new to this, I don't know if I did it right, but I tried again with jaw pullers to get the bearing out and it did not budge.

Pulled out the mig and welded around the bearing but was not able to pry it out.

I tried the puller again and I was able to pull it to the edge of the axle housing with the puller.

Then, I re-tried the slide hammer, but the hook kept slipping, so I dismantled my slide hammer and made my own. It worked like a charm. I call it SST "Miller Lite"

Drivers side



Passenger side



Long story short, I was able to remove both bearings and the welding trick definitely made it easier.

 

[KY Longhunter]

I just did this but have a question...wouldn't welding a bead on inside of old bearing EXPAND metal instead of shrinking the metal?

The logic seems off...but it worked.

 

[Pin_Head]

Heating a little expands metal and cooling makes it shrink back to where it was. If you heat metal above the A1 phase transition temperature (red hot; approximately 1600F), like during welding, it will shrink so that its final size after cooling is less than it started with. That is why welding can warp and distort metal regardless of how it is clamped.

 

[KY Longhunter]

So if I put replacement bearing in the freezer overnight before I install will that help?

 

[3_puppies]

So if I put replacement bearing in the freezer overnight before I install will that help?

yes, but dry ice works better.