Rigger's disc brake conversion

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Rigger

Ramble Tamble
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FJ40 disc brake conversions are common here on MUD, so mine is nothing new. But, I am starting this thread in the hopes that it will be helpful to anyone doing their own conversion. I also hope that this thread will help me to stay organized and get advice from others. Thanks for reading, posting up advice, comments, attaboys, & whatever!
My skills: I am a rookie mechanic; tall on enthusiasm and short on experience. The only other thing I bring to the table is an abiding love for this old green ’40. I have a few local Cruiser consultants that I can call on, most notably Toyrod, but generally I’m on my own. My family is usually willing to help, too.
My junk: I have a 1970 FJ40 with the stock drum brakes all the way around, and the old school single-line master cylinder. Overall, the brake system is in poor health. The master cylinder leaks, the drums are noisy and dragging, and I have to pump the brake pedal to get the system to work. I regard the whole thing as borderline unsafe.
Goal: Top-drawer, safe, reliable disc brakes at all four corners. The whole enchilada, as they say.
Approach: Swap in a 1976 FJ40 axle up front. I bought the axle from Igy already, so I am committed. (Don’t go pitching mini truck or 60-series brakes to me now. I am past that decision point! :D ) I'll install Poser brackets and GM calipers out back. I'm using a non-boosted Corvette master. Summit proportioning valve. Napa and/or junkyard brake lines.
Cost: It looks like this whole deal is gonna cost me right around a grand. Wife says okay, so here we go.
:bounce::bounce2:
 
Got the '76 axle on the bench; starting the teardown.
Cruisers 001.webp
 
I'm still researching all the stuff I need, but one thing I have to have is a seal and bearing kit. Called Kurt. Guess where he is? Yup. Cruise Moab! I shoulda known! I'll order it next week, I guess.

I'm doing the rears, too, so I went ahead and ordered brackets and turned-out rotors from Poser. Those are on the way.

Up on the front, I am going to try that fancy new Marlin seal. I called them and ordered a set. Those are on the way, too.

The front rotors have to go in to be checked and turned. Same time, they are gonna hot tank my knuckles, backers, and other junk.

Here's the stuff, in the box, ready to go.
FJ40 Axle tear down 003.webp
 
More pics of the tear down
more 001.webp
more 002.webp
more 003.webp
 
This 76 axle came with Selectro hubs. I have a set of Aisins. I wonder if the Aisins will fit. Anyone know? If the Aisin hubs don't fit, I could just clean up the Selectros and run 'em.

How am I going to clean up the axle housing for painting? I was thinking of loading it on my trailer and hauling it to the car wash. Is that a good way to go?
 
I hope that you are keeping track of the shim thickness and locations when tearing this down. Sure makes putting things back together easier...





This 76 axle came with Selectro hubs. I have a set of Aisins. I wonder if the Aisins will fit. Anyone know? If the Aisin hubs don't fit, I could just clean up the Selectros and run 'em.

How am I going to clean up the axle housing for painting? I was thinking of loading it on my trailer and hauling it to the car wash. Is that a good way to go?



If the OEM lockouts are the long body, you will be fine. They were used primarily on FJ-55s between 08/75 and 12/78.


If they are the short body, they will not work with the longer, 08/75-12/78 outer axle stub.


You could change to the shorter, 01/79 and later outer axle stub.



Lockout 101 from the FAQ



Let me know if I can help with anything else.


:beer:
 
Thanks, Poser. It is already clear to me that you are going to be a big help on this project. I appreciate that very much.

Shim positions recorded: check. Got 'em bagged and tagged. Funny thing is, there were no shims on the driver side; top position. :confused: When I did my FJ62 axle a while back, there were shims at each of the 4 positions. Some of the knuckle fasteners are missing, others are loose, so it may be that this thing was at one point partially disassembled and then thrown back together. :confused: I'm trying to reach Igy; maybe she knows the history.

I'm not immediately sure how to determine the type of hubs I have. I'll clean 'em up a bit and post some pics.

I'll be posting a "fasteners wanted" thread over in Parts Wanted. I need some nuts, bolts, and washers.

Next step is to get this greasy stuff out of the garage and off to the cleaner before one of the kids gets his hands into it! :doh:
 
I'm not immediately sure how to determine the type of hubs I have. I'll clean 'em up a bit and post some pics.

Here's a pic showing the difference between the long and the short body Aisin (or Asco) hubs. If you have the short body, it'd be easier to swap the outer axle (as Poser said above) to the later style instead of keeping the Selectros. The Aisin's not only are much stronger, but look better too. ;)

attachment.php


Dan
 
Here's a pic showing the difference between the long and the short body Aisin (or Asco) hubs. If you have the short body, it'd be easier to swap the outer axle (as Poser said above) to the later style instead of keeping the Selectros. The Aisin's not only are much stronger, but look better too. ;)

attachment.php


Dan




Nice picture dan...



:lol:
 
Just Martack the inner and cut the end off the outer and run the Aisins..




That is some seriously funny s***...





What else ya got?




:lol:
 
Here is a pic of the Selectro next to the Aisin. It don't look like I can use my Aisins on this axle w/o switching out the ends.
evenmore40 002.webp
 
The Aisin body is right around 1-3/4" long.
evenmore40 001.webp
 
I brought the end parts (knuckles, backers, steering arms, rotors) in and had 'em cleaned up. The brake shop says the rotors are not usable. Too thin. I ordered up some new ones. They'll be in next week. In the meanwhile, I'll go ahead and start getting the knuckles and backers painted.

Here's the mostly cleaned up knuckles:
evenmore40 005.webp
 
attachment.php


was there a reason you pulled off everything in this photo? or just to clean it up? im about to start cleaning my front axle now, just painted my rear one about 30 seconds ago :D
 
was there a reason you pulled off everything in this photo? or just to clean it up? im about to start cleaning my front axle now, just painted my rear one about 30 seconds ago :D

I am replacing all the bearings and seals, therefore a full teardown was needed.

How do you prep for painting? Gimme details.
 
I am replacing all the bearings and seals, therefore a full teardown was needed.

How do you prep for painting? Gimme details.

i put a wire wheel on my grinder and that took almost everything off. be careful the wire wheel will destroy threads so be careful going around bolts. for grease i would use a wire brush and some sort of solvent, and for paint i was just using rustoleum in a spray can and doing 2 coats.

got any tips for me on cleaning up my front axle? not gonna do a full tear down tho.
 
I took the axle body down to the car wash and worked it over with soap and water and a high pressure wand. Then, I plopped it on the work bench and went over it with a wire wheel. It still has some gumpta in some of the crevices. I have a ways to go with it. I was thinking rattle can primer and paint; nothing fancy, basic black. Here's the mostly cleaned up axle body:
stillmore 001.webp
 
Were you going to remove the differential and clean/inspect that, or just replace the pinion seal?

It looks a little damp around the companion flange area....



:meh:
 
Before painting, I was thinking I'd do a wipe down with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits or something. Is that a reasonable thing to do?

The folks at Napa are helping me track down brake lines. For hard lines, I'm gonna use polymer coated steel 3/16" units. They supply 'em straight, and they say they can be bent fairly readily by hand. We'll see how it goes! :hhmm: For rubber flex lines, I like the basic black stock-looking lines.
 

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