Rigger's disc brake conversion (4 Viewers)

[Rigger]

Filled and bled the rear circuit. Found some leaks where the lines connect. Tightened 'em down. No leaks. It is amazing how much hydraulic pressure is in that system. Rear brakes seem to work. Pedal pressure is firm and good.

Filled and bled the front circuit. More leaks at connections. Passenger side, where the short hard line connects to the caliper, that connection will not stop leaking. I switched the line and it got worse. Wondering if the caliper threads are bad. I can't see it real well, so I am gonna pull the caliper and visually inspect.

It is hot here today, so sweating it out over this thing is turning out to be misery! Taking a short break.

Edit: Break time's over; back to work. Pulled the caliper. Inspected. The brass seat, where the hard line connects to the caliper, is fouled. I can see it down inside where the flare part of the hard line contacts. I called Napa and told 'em the story. They ordered a new caliper for me. It will be in on Tuesday.

 

[Rigger]

Installed the new caliper. Bled the system. Pedal feels good; nice and firm. Almost ready for a test drive. In the morning, I have to finish filling the cooling system, then I can start it up!

Have a look at the last pic. It shows the prop valve. Turning the knob one way is increase, the other way is decrease. Question is, if the rear brakes are locking, should I increase or decrease?

The first pic shows my new JTO front bumper!

 

[Toyrod]

The progress looks good! Hope the test drive goes as well.

 

[Rigger]

The progress looks good! Hope the test drive goes as well.

Should I wear a helmet?

 

[Rigger]

Hooked up the battery, added more coolant, started 'er up!

Short test drive. Brakes work!



I have to admit that I am under the impression that the brakes should feel more "power-brakey". Frankly, they don't feel a whole lot different than my old manual brakes. I will be inspecting to see if perhaps I have a vacuum leak in the lines off of the manifold. Please post up any suggestions.

I have to run and get more coolant, too.

 

[Rigger]

I have been driving the truck around for a few days. I like the new brakes! I want extend thanks to Toyrod, Poser, 65swb45, and others here for their help.

I still have a list of to-do's to wrap up.

Here's a coolant leak I found this evening right at the temp sender:

 

[Rigger]

Not brakes, but somewhat related. I have my '40 top & doors off, so I needed new side view mirrors. Got the cheapie CCOT units, along with their stainless windshield hinge screws. Replaced 15 of my 16 screws. Look at that one here in this pic, he WILL NOT come out! I'd swear he's laughing at me.

 

[Rigger]

My rotted clutch fork boot; a new one is on the way from Cruiser Dan!

 

[TRoss]

I have to admit that I am under the impression that the brakes should feel more "power-brakey". Frankly, they don't feel a whole lot different than my old manual brakes. I will be inspecting to see if perhaps I have a vacuum leak in the lines off of the manifold. Please post up any suggestions.

Had the same feeling when I did my mini-truck rear disc and front upgrade conversion. Seemed a little weak at first. Over time they got better and better. I assume the pads and rotors wore in and found their sweet spot. Maybe it's just perception tho... IDK.

Can't say that for the kid's 40 though... still hasn't left the farm!!

Nice work!!!

 

[Rigger]

Hate to grasp at straws to keep this thread alive;



Added a MUD sticker!

 

[78fj40mg]

Go to side of truck and push axle inward. It will move in about 1/2" or so. Then, the C-clip can be easily removed. It will just about fall out. There is one C-clip for each half axle, so you do this step twice.

Thanks for this great post!

 

[Max.Powerzz]

Oh, I also ordered some new front shackles, bushings, and tie rod ends. When the new axle goes in, some newer springs are going in, too, so I may as well freshen up the whole front end. I also got a center arm rebuild kit coming. That job may wait a while, though. Got all those coming from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters.

Also ordered a booster and master from Mark's Off Road.

Onward and upward!

Wow, excellent thread! I just read the whole thing and all of the links. I'm putting axles under my '68 which already have discs on them, so I need to upgrade to a booster and dual circuit master. Which booster and master did you go with from Mark? How did your carb issues work out? I have a troll hole carb, anyone know if I will have similar fitment issues? I also have a 2f and small air cleaner. I'd prefer not to cut the firewall support. It seems like the JTO adapter and set up is for v8 conversions?

 

[71AZFJ]

The info on this conversion is outstanding Great Job.