Real-Time-Help...Snapped CV joint!!!

[pfran42]

Well, everyone told me this was coming. Attempting a steep and loose hill climb with front and rear diffs locked and the truck started bouncing violently in the direction of a tree. Got it straightened out and backed out of the climb but passenger CV boot was sheared off and I can easily move the passenger side half-shaft around with my hand.

I limped back to our farm house garage and I have access to tools but I need a quick fix in order to get the family back home tomorrow. Can someone point me to a good thread on removing the half-shaft or offer some advice on what I need to do in order to safely drive home?

I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow when I get back out to the farm house. Any help is much appreciated!

BTW, here is what it looks like:

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[100 TD]

Pull the front tail shaft, pull the front hub flanges both sides, tape a plastic bottle over the exposed hubs, lock the CDL and drive it home. (Tie up the CV shaft if you think it is going to fall out.)

 

[2000UZJ]

Less gas next time! When she bounces that means stop and rethink your approach.

 

[100 TD]

After you lock the CDL, you can pull wiring off the actuator so it can't be accidentally unlocked.
I drove around for months with no front diff or CV's while I did work on mine.

 

[100 TD]

If you have broken 1 CV, I would replace both and keep the other as an emergency spare.

 

[2000UZJ]

If you have broken 1 CV, I would replace both and keep the other as an emergency spare.

Good advise. Especially for Paul


When I had to rebuild my CV 2 times in 2 days I went ahead and pulled the entire knuckle off. Needed an arm pulled for that and some 4 letter words. Now I need to rebuild my spare again.

 

[pfran42]

Pull the front tail shaft, pull the front hub flanges both sides, tape a plastic bottle over the exposed hubs, lock the CDL and drive it home. (Tie up the CV shaft if you think it is going to fall out.)

-By tail shaft, do you mean the main shaft coming off the center diff going to the front diff?

-Hub flanges...as in the entire hub assembly? If so, any special tools required?

-By plastic bottle do you mean like a 2 litter coke bottle cut in half?

Less gas next time! When she bounces that means stop and rethink your approach.

I know. I had made it up the day before. I was letting the owner of the property dive it and he has multiple modded off road vehicles, even a nice rock crawler. I think he was in bullet proof rock crawler mode when he was driving.

 

[pfran42]

I was thinking I could just pull the shaft running from the front diff to the pass side CV. Is this not the case?

 

[2000UZJ]

-By tail shaft, do you mean the main shaft coming off the center diff going to the front diff?

-Hub flanges...as in the entire hub assembly? If so, any special tools required?

-By plastic bottle do you mean like a 2 litter coke bottle cut in half?

I know. I had made it up the day before. I was letting the owner of the property dive it and he has multiple modded off road vehicles, even a nice rock crawler. I think he was in bullet proof rock crawler mode when he was driving.

You will need a arm puller to remove the knuckle. Other than that is pretty basic tools with the exception of a brass hammer and cotter pins. is the CV snapped in have or just shattered but still in one piece?

 

[Gottagetone]

If its still in one piece you may be able to just remove the front drive shaft to get ya home.?. Make sure and mark connection so you put it back together the way it came apart.

 

[pfran42]

You will need a arm puller to remove the knuckle. Other than that is pretty basic tools with the exception of a brass hammer and cotter pins. is the CV snapped in have or just shattered but still in one piece?

Not sure if it broken completely in half. Was getting dark and I couldn't spend a lot of time with it. I could grab the shaft on the inboard side of the CV knuckle and wiggle it back and forth freely. What would really help me is greater clarity on exactly what to do. I have or can purchase all necessary tools for doing the job myself. I would just like to find a detailed thread on what to do. Once I get back to Atlanta, I can then order to correct parts and have ACC put it all back together again.

Can I not just pull the the pass side half shaft and drive home with the CDL engaged?

 

[pfran42]

If its still in one piece you may be able to just remove the front drive shaft to get ya home.?. Make sure and mark connection so you put it back together the way it came apart.

If what is still in one piece? The front drive shaft? If so, the front drive shaft is fine.

 

[100 TD]

-By tail shaft, do you mean the main shaft coming off the center diff going to the front diff?

YES

-Hub flanges...as in the entire hub assembly? If so, any special tools required?

No, just the drive flange, pop the cap off, remove circlip from shaft, undo 6 bolts around flange, pop them with a hammer or brass drift to release the cone washers, remove the drive flange.

-By plastic bottle do you mean like a 2 litter coke bottle cut in half?

YES, tape over exposed hub.

I was thinking I could just pull the shaft running from the front diff to the pass side CV. Is this not the case?

Yes you can, is it snapped in 2?
If you pull it from the diff end you have to seal up the hole to stop oil spewing out and s*** getting in, it will also still be turning as well unless you pull the tail shaft and drive flanges.
If you pull the broken shaft from the wheel end, you now have a spinning shaft hanging from your diff!

You will need a arm puller to remove the knuckle. Other than that is pretty basic tools with the exception of a brass hammer and cotter pins. is the CV snapped in have or just shattered but still in one piece?

If you want to pull the complete shaft, you can use 2 hammers to pop the knuckles without a puller. I don't have a puller and did mine that way.

 

[spressomon]

Breathe! Breathe!

100TD gave you the best advice.

Pull the hub flanges. To do that you're first going to remove the dust cap (hammer and a small sharp chisel works or if worst case take a pair of channel locks/vise grips and pull it off). And then you'll need a pair of snap ring pliers (got those in your tool kit right?), a BFH and a brass drift to knock the cone washers loose. Back the hub flange nuts off just so they come to the end of the studs...then with your BFH and brass drift smack the end of the studs (with the nuts attached so you don't eff up the stud threads) until the cone washers pop loose.

And since you haven't taken my advice about carrying a pair of bored out hub flanges......you'll need to leave them off and tape up around the bearings to try to keep as much grit out of the bearings as possible.

Then remove the front drive shaft (yes completely ); lock the CDL and you're off and driving a rear wheel drive rig.


No need to pull the CV (until you get a replacement of course )...that's just going to cause more problems.

 

[100 TD]

If what is still in one piece? The front drive shaft? If so, the front drive shaft is fine.

If you pull the complete shaft from the broken side, and seal up the diff and seal up the hub you can drive it home. Depending on where you are, you don't have to seal up the hub if you are on clean dry road, just be prepared to do your wheel bearing as well. Remember your diff will be spinning, so you will want to seal it well.
EDIT: Time wise I think pulling the flanges and tailshaft may be quicker. It's what I would do, each to their own.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Undo the bolts in red, remove the cap in the middle, beat the holy pee out of the sides of the flange to pop the cone washers out and you'll end up with the 2nd pic. Then, like TD said, put something over the exposed end. I've used a latex glove for a very temporary fix, if you're on the road put a ziploc over it and ziptie it on.

 

[2000UZJ]

Forgot about pulling the flange. Never been in that position so I have never really "needed" to know. Now I do.

 

[pfran42]

Breathe! Breathe!

100TD gave you the best advice.

Pull the hub flanges. To do that you're first going to remove the dust cap (hammer and a small sharp chisel works or if worst case take a pair of channel locks/vise grips and pull it off). And then you'll need a pair of snap ring pliers (got those in your tool kit right?), a BFH and a brass drift to knock the cone washers loose. Back the hub flange nuts off just so they come to the end of the studs...then with your BFH and brass drift smack the end of the studs (with the nuts attached so you don't eff up the stud threads) until the cone washers pop loose.

And since you haven't taken my advice about carrying a pair of bored out hub flanges......you'll need to leave them off and tape up around the bearings to try to keep as much grit out of the bearings as possible.

Then remove the front drive shaft (yes completely ); lock the CDL and you're off and driving a rear wheel drive rig.


No need to pull the CV (until you get a replacement of course )...that's just going to cause more problems.

If you pull the complete shaft from the broken side, and seal up the diff and seal up the hub you can drive it home. Depending on where you are, you don't have to seal up the hub if you are on clean dry road, just be prepared to do your wheel bearing as well. Remember your diff will be spinning, so you will want to seal it well.
EDIT: Time wise I think pulling the flanges and tailshaft may be quicker. It's what I would do, each to their own.

Thanks guys! Going to do "Pull the front tail shaft, pull the front hub flanges both sides, tape a plastic bottle over the exposed hubs, lock the CDL and drive it home."

Do I need to tape the broken half-shaft even though it will not be rotating? I was thinking vibration might knock it loose from the front diff coupling and cause all sorts of havoc as it falls to the ground at 70 MPH.

Also, with the center diff locked is there an MPH number that I should keep it under? 90% of the 126 mile drive home is on interstate.

 

[100 TD]

Do I need to tape the broken half-shaft even though it will not be rotating? I was thinking vibration might knock it loose from the front diff coupling and cause all sorts of havoc as it falls to the ground at 70 MPH.

From my first post

............ (Tie up the CV shaft if you think it is going to fall out.)

Edit: Tie it up, tie the 2 ends together, wire them together etc so they stay in place when you hit bumps

Also, with the center diff locked is there an MPH number that I should keep it under? 90% of the 126 mile drive home is on interstate.

Probably best to keep it under 90!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Check to see that it's not going to hit suspension, brake lines, or the like. Otherwise, enjoy the very easy burn-outs.