90k service parts list (2 Viewers)

[Trunk Monkey]

With the help of CruiserDan I have compiled a list of the parts you'll need for a 90k service:

16100-59275-83 - Water pump (complete assembly including gasket)
13568-09070 - Timing belt
90916-02586 - Serpentine belt
90915-YZZD3 - Oil filter
90916-03100 - Thermostat
16346-50010 - Thermostat gasket
17801-50040 - Air filter

The YZZD3 oil filter is what your dealer will supply. There is a better and larger filter available, the JDM spec 20004. It is not stocked in the US parts system but is available from CruiserDan at his dealership.

You can also do the idler pulleys and cam/crank seals at this time, though not required:

13503-0F010 and 13505-0F010 - Idlers
90311-A0001 - Crank seal
90311-38065 - Cam seal (x2)

The iridium plugs don't call for replacement until 120k. I was late doing my timing belt at 105k, so I went ahead and did the plugs also:

90080-91180 - Spark plug (x8)

Remember, you'll need ~8q. of oil also.

 

[fish2live]

nice list - can you add it to the FAQ under the maint section?

Are those part #'s for any model year?

 

[Scottb4857]

Doing this service on a 99 LC with 235k miles. Not knowing the service history good chance this is first time for TB and water pump. Should I just go ahead and do the cam and crank seals just due to age? No sign of either leaking at all at this point but since I'll have everything off already and is it that hard to change them for a decent DIY guy?

 

[ranma21]

Doing this service on a 99 LC with 235k miles. Not knowing the service history good chance this is first time for TB and water pump. Should I just go ahead and do the cam and crank seals just due to age? No sign of either leaking at all at this point but since I'll have everything off already and is it that hard to change them for a decent DIY guy?

You should by all means replace the cam and crank shaft seals since you are in there already. They are not that hard to change at all.

 

[GregLCA]

You should by all means replace the cam and crank shaft seals since you are in there already. They are not that hard to change at all.

Can you clarify the comment about the cam seals?

I spoke to my local Toyota dealership in preparation for this service and the tech said that replacing the cam seals was definitely not a simple task... something about the VVTi cam setup needing quite a bit of disassembly to access those seals??? (I may not have gotten all the details right, but he said it was definitely a lot more work than the crank seal which he was happy to replace while he was in there).

Thanks!

-G

 

[TXLX100]

Can you clarify the comment about the cam seals?

I spoke to my local Toyota dealership in preparation for this service and the tech said that replacing the cam seals was definitely not a simple task... something about the VVTi cam setup needing quite a bit of disassembly to access those seals??? (I may not have gotten all the details right, but he said it was definitely a lot more work than the crank seal which he was happy to replace while he was in there).

Thanks!

-G

Technician is right. On some engines, can seal is pretty quick. Others require more than digging the seal out and installing.

If it were mine, I wouldn't mess with it unless it was the simple swap.

 

[super90]

And I'll add that I haven't had a fan bracket make it to 180 k, so I would put in a new one.

I had new cam and crank seals just done on the'03 and the tech didn't even blink.

 

[Scottb4857]

On the non VVTi engines cam seal replacement was easy, couple extra bolts, remove the cam pulleys, pop the seals and replace. Haven't worked on a VVTi version myself so don't know how much more involved there. While researching to do mine I read on some of the other forums that the dealers and shops rarely ever touch those seals.

 

[TXLX100]

And i'll add that I haven't had a fan bracket make it to 180 k, so I would put in a new one.

I had new can and crank seals just done on the'03 and the tech didn't even blink.

Good tip on the fan bracket.

2003 was a non-VVT engine, so it probably took the tech little time swap seals.

 

[super90]

Also, the hose to the oil cooler.

 

[ton504]

The vvt motors are a pain. You have to remove camshafts.

 

[OregonLC]

I probably went overboard, but "while you're in there" took over and I ended up with the below. The way I look at it is my time is valuable and if replacing a few $$ in parts saves a repair during the next 90k cycle (or worse a trail fail) then it's worth the pennies.

It's a much easier job with the radiator out. Not to mention you eliminate the risk of damage to your rad. And as long as the rad is out, might as well do the heater hose tee and hoses, right? The one item I elected not to do was the fan bracket because (a) it's expensive, (b) it's completely external to the rest of the job, and (c) it most likely will start 'talking' miles in advance of failure.

13540-50030 Tensioner
13568-09070 T-belt
16100-09201 W-pump
13503-0F010 Idler
13505-0F010 Idler
16604-0F010 Pulley
16620-0W101 Tensioner
96761-24019 O-ring
96761-35035 O-ring
16572-50150 Rad hose
16571-50150 Rad hose
16261-50090 By-pass hose
90311-38065 Cam seal x2
90311-A0001 Cr seal
16282-50040 Hose
15777-50030 Hose
90467-20011 Clip x4
16281-50030 Hose
90916-03100 Thermostat
16346-50010 Thermostat gasket


Plus Heater Hose Tees and Hoses:
87248-60460
87245-6A180
87245-6A210
87245-6A190
87245-6A220
87245-6A201
99556-20200

 

[TXLX100]

I probably went overboard, but "while you're in there" took over and I ended up with the below. The way I look at it is my time is valuable and if replacing a few $$ in parts saves a repair during the next 90k cycle (or worse a trail fail) then it's worth the pennies.

It's a much easier job with the radiator out. Not to mention you eliminate the risk of damage to your rad. And as long as the rad is out, might as well do the heater hose tee and hoses, right? The one item I elected not to do was the fan bracket because (a) it's expensive, (b) it's completely external to the rest of the job, and (c) it most likely will start 'talking' miles in advance of failure.

13540-50030 Tensioner
13568-09070 T-belt
16100-09201 W-pump
13503-0F010 Idler
13505-0F010 Idler
16604-0F010 Pulley
16620-0W101 Tensioner
96761-24019 O-ring
96761-35035 O-ring
16572-50150 Rad hose
16571-50150 Rad hose
16261-50090 By-pass hose
90311-38065 Cam seal x2
90311-A0001 Cr seal
16282-50040 Hose
15777-50030 Hose
90467-20011 Clip x4
16281-50030 Hose
90916-03100 Thermostat
16346-50010 Thermostat gasket


Plus Heater Hose Tees and Hoses:
87248-60460
87245-6A180
87245-6A210
87245-6A190
87245-6A220
87245-6A201
99556-20200

It is easier with the radiator out. If you leave it in, put a piece of cardboard over it to keep a tool from slipping through it.

 

[OregonLC]

It is easier with the radiator out. If you leave it in, put a piece of cardboard over it to keep a tool from slipping through it.

The cardboard is a great idea. I did that as well to protect the condenser from wench damage.

 

[OregonLC]

The YZZD3 oil filter is what your dealer will supply. There is a better and larger filter available, the JDM spec 20004. It is not stocked in the US parts system but is available from CruiserDan at his dealership.

Good to see that he's stocking them domestically. If I hadn't stocked up on a couple of year's worth of M1-209's (for both 100s!) I'd order some now.

 

[super90]

I probably went overboard, but "while you're in there" took over and I ended up with the below. The way I look at it is my time is valuable and if replacing a few $$ in parts saves a repair during the next 90k cycle (or worse a trail fail) then it's worth the pennies.

Oh, I totally agree and that's why I went even further.

I had a new fan clutch put in and wanted a new radiator too, but that was damaged in shipping. At this same age/mileage, those were additional items that went on my 80-series, so I figured, the second time around, shame on me if I didn't while knowing better. I don't have time to go back in.

 

[OregonLC]

wanted a new radiator too.

I haven't seen many (any?) 100 radiators go (yet, knock on wood!). The seem to be void of the 'pink milkshake' failure mode that the 4R had. Although now that I think about it there was one here a while back that had the trans heater line go.

 

[super90]

The one on my 80-series cracked at the upper hose connection. I guess too many heat cycles as it lived in AZ and TX. It was 13-years old. My 100-series trucks are now 12 and have been in TX and OK. Maybe they last longer in the areas without such extreme temps. I feel fine with 12 years. 5-Series BMW radiators were only lasting 5-6 years !!

 

[vman858]

Gotta do this! Thanks

 

[SC4Hundred]

Is it necessary to do all these at 90k?