Would you happen to have a link or part number for this O-ring?That's the exact kit I got. Good kit, but was missing the water outlet O-ring. That O-ring is a requirement to change out during the job.
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Would you happen to have a link or part number for this O-ring?That's the exact kit I got. Good kit, but was missing the water outlet O-ring. That O-ring is a requirement to change out during the job.
96761-35035 is the O-ring I was missing, I believe.Would you happen to have a link or part number for this O-ring?
Regarding your list, VVTI engines need their camshafts removed to replace the seals, Non-VVTI don't. If your 100 has a history of frequent oil changes you might not want to replace them unless they are leaking. That looks like a mid range parts list compared to the 200 bundles, but you can also go crazy with more coolant hoses/vacuum hoses, spark plugs, etc.I will be doing a 90k mile service very soon and this thread checks all boxes, very helpful. So far this is my list:
Timing belt kit (cruiserteq)
Fan clutch (amazon Aisin FCT-075)
- 1 x Water Pump
- 1 x Water Pump Gasket
- 1 x Timing Belt
- 1 x Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly
- 1 x Water Bypass Pipe O-Ring
- 1 x Water Inlet Housing O-Ring
- 1 x Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #2
- 1 x Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #1
- 2 x Camshaft Seals
- 1 x Crank Seal
- 1 x Timing Belt Cover Gasket Insert
Rad Hose #1 (partsouq 1657150150)
Rad Hose #2 (partsouq 1657250150)
Thermostat (partsouq 16346-50010)
Thermostat gasket (partsouq 16346-50010)
The V-Belt/Serpentine belt oem part #90916-02586 on partsouq is $83 and the price of the substitute parts are from $13-18 only, wondering whats the difference (if there’s any) of those from the main oem part number?
Am I missing any other parts? Appreciate all the help I can get in preparation for this task. Thanks.
Thanks for this I appreciate it. So far the from the thorough inspection I did earlier, all vacuum hoses are intact so far no signs of fine/small cracks. For precautionary measures I will be replacing radiator hoses #1 and #2. Question on the seals: Is it really mandatory to replace the VVTi seals? No trace of any seepage or leaks on those by the way, so far bone dry. I replaced the 8pcs spark plugs 1.5 yrs ago (10k miles ago) with Iridiums but will check that as well.Regarding your list, VVTI engines need their camshafts removed to replace the seals, Non-VVTI don't. If your 100 has a history of frequent oil changes you might not want to replace them unless they are leaking. That looks like a mid range parts list compared to the 200 bundles, but you can also go crazy with more coolant hoses/vacuum hoses, spark plugs, etc.
Just related to the timing belt job:I will be doing a 90k mile service very soon and this thread checks all boxes, very helpful. So far this is my list:
<snip>
Am I missing any other parts? Appreciate all the help I can get in preparation for this task. Thanks.
I think lots here that have 98-05 do change the camshaft seals "while we are in there". I'm not sure 06-07 owners do, I would think they don't unless they are leaking because it involves removing the camshafts for those MY's.Thanks for this I appreciate it. So far the from the thorough inspection I did earlier, all vacuum hoses are intact so far no signs of fine/small cracks. For precautionary measures I will be replacing radiator hoses #1 and #2. Question on the seals: Is it really mandatory to replace the VVTi seals? No trace of any seepage or leaks on those by the way, so far bone dry. I replaced the 8pcs spark plugs 1.5 yrs ago (10k miles ago) with Iridiums but will check that as well.
Thanks very much let me add that (fan bracket FBT-002, serpentine idler pulley 16604-50030 and the continental 4060882) to my list. The serpentine tensioner pulley, you mean the bearing is the only one that needs to be replaced? The Nachi 6203-2RS? Thanks again sorry I have no idea what this part looks like is as I haven’t seen it, totally in the dark.Just related to the timing belt job:
I did not replace cam seals, crank seals that were not leaking
I didn't replace the fan clutch, but did replace the bracket - Aisin FBT-002
New Serpentine idler pulley - 16604-50030
New Serpentine tensioner pulley - I just replaced the bearing with a Nachi 6203-2RS
Re $88 serpentine belt - I used Continental 4060882 for $22.
You are going to need at least 3 gallons of coolant, and a filler funnel is handy
Heater tees, depending on when they were last done.
90k a good time to do whatever other fluids/filters/wear items haven't been done in a while, but that is a whole separate conversation.
The Nachi bearing: if it is single row - no good. I am still searching for the real one.
Since I didn’t see or wasn’t able to find thru search a VVTi motor (06-07) comprehensive timing belt replacement components guide and price, I will just put it here with the intention to share the cost and parts needed to do the job and where I sourced them. I recently did mine and here is the full list of components I replaced for the 90,000 mile service interval specifically for the timing belt et al job, the truck by the way is at 247k miles.
Timing belt kit kit (amazon TKT-021) $188.04
* 1 x Water Pump
* 1 x Water Pump Gasket
* 1 x Timing Belt
* 1 x Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly
* 1 x Water Bypass Pipe O-Ring
* 1 x Water Inlet Housing O-Ring
* 1 x Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #1
* 1 x Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #2
Aisin FIPG (amazon AB1207B1) $21.78
Serpentine tensioner (amazon 6203-2RS) $6.99
Continental Serpentine belt (amazon 4060882) $29.97
Aisin Fan clutch (amazon FCT-075) $90.62
OEM Serpentine idler (amazon 70SPPV0408DDUL) $36.28
Aisin Fan bracket assembly (amazon FBT-002) $118.03
OEM Radiator Hose 1 (partsouq 1657150150) $13.41
OEM Radiator Hose 2 (partsouq 1657250150) $19.04
OEM Thermostat (partsouq 90916-03100) $13.96
OEM Thermostat gasket (partsouq 16346-50010) $2.22
Shipping $44.98 (Total $93.61)
OEM Pulley IDLER (amazon 01872UZFE) $18.37
OEM Fan side bolt thru compressor - dealership stripped it from last timing belt job (partsouq 90099-04422) $15.64
OEM Crankshaft seal (ebay 90311A0001) $16.20
OEM Dipstick tube O-ring (ebay 96721-19010) $6.04
Loctite 242 (Lowe’s) $6.20
OEM Alternator bolt - I accidentally stripped (90119-10791) $11.48
OEM Camshaft cover plastic clip - brittle and cracked x2 (partsouq 82711-43020) $40.20
3/8 torque wrench 10-200 ft. lbs. (lowe’s) $150
Toyota genuine coolant 2 gallons red to yield 4 gallons mixed with distilled water $54.40
Special tools:
Camshaft sprocket tool hex end (amazon) $52
Crankshaft harmonic balancer tool (amazon) $49.84
Regular tools:
Set of shallow and deep sockets 10mm, 12mm, 14mm commonly used
Set of wrench
Swivel socket joints
Hose clamp pliers
Long nose pliers
Regular pliers
Degreaser cleaner for the oil weeps and leaks
Gloves
Funnel for the coolant to radiator transfer and burping
Did not replace:
• spark plugs - replaced it 7k miles ago
• air filter - replaced it 5k miles ago
• camshaft seals - bone dry and no leak
• PCV - replaced 7k miles ago
• Heater Tees - replaced 7k miles ago
• vacuum hoses - still seems to be good and flexible at this point no cracks
• radiator - still in good shape no leaks
• radiator fan - still in good shape no cracks/chips
Online resources:
Parts removal and installation:
•
•
• Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt (updated) Part 3
• Toyota 4.7 liter Timing Belt Replacement Part 1
• Toyota 4.7 liter Timing Belt Replacement Part 2
Torque values: http://dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/Engine Mechanical.pdf
Personal observations and things that I learned:
• Take your time
• Itemize the bolts/nuts
• Take pictures before and after to reference correction bolts/nuts and positions of components
• the plastic clips and other plastic components is likely to break/snap because of age/mileage (heat)
• the fsm is like a bible esp for those torque values
• for all the bolts/nuts that fasten components that turn/move just for insurance I applied loctite 242 on them (plastic covers bolts/nut need not to)
Finally started the car yesterday after an almost 3-week hiatus, took that long because of logistics, my schedule and I maxed out my time. Typical high rev on the first 5mins and then eventually idled at +/-780 rpm and purred like a kitten again. VVTi actuators/cams/valve springs normal faint tap sound, fan clutch engaging, no leaks so far and burped all the unnecessary air in the cooling system. Took it out today for a drive Big thanks to fellow mudders here who answered my seemingly endless questions, wouldn’t have done it without y’all help. And for that, kampai.
View attachment 2474677
Pleasure is mine. This is the least I can do to pay it forward. I enjoyed the task I just reminded myself this is just a big puzzle I used to do when I was a kid growing up around LEGO.Thanks for compiling the list for us 06/07 guys!
I’ll probably do mine next year but have been getting my own list together in the meantime, so this is so helpful.
I probably went overboard, but "while you're in there" took over and I ended up with the below. The way I look at it is my time is valuable and if replacing a few $$ in parts saves a repair during the next 90k cycle (or worse a trail fail) then it's worth the pennies.
It's a much easier job with the radiator out. Not to mention you eliminate the risk of damage to your rad. And as long as the rad is out, might as well do the heater hose tee and hoses, right? The one item I elected not to do was the fan bracket because (a) it's expensive, (b) it's completely external to the rest of the job, and (c) it most likely will start 'talking' miles in advance of failure.
16282-50040 Hose
15777-50030 Hose
90467-20011 Clip x4
16281-50030 Hose
In the end, welding a nut to that broken bolt didn't work. IMHO, the only way to deal with this broken alternator bolt is to drill it out carefully, stepping up bits to the maximum you can go without enlarging the original hole, then when there is just a shell of the old bolt remaining, clamp down vice grips and give 'er a twist. Out she comes. Be careful with the drilling, if you get off center it would be easy for the bit to walk off and eat into the softer aluminum. Slow and steady with several shots of PB or WD as you go.So, I was lucky to come across the oil cooler pipe having been previously broken and jerry rigged. I spent a fair amount of time hunting down the part number, so perhaps this will be helpful to someone who needs to replace a busted one like me.
15767-0F010
View attachment 2511911
View attachment 2511914
View attachment 2511915
And this lower alternator bolt part number: 90119-A0280
View attachment 2511920
OEM Camshaft cover plastic clip - brittle and cracked x2 (partsouq 82711-43020) $40.20
You can refer to @2001LC ’s post #28 on this thread: Troubleshooting engine stall - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/troubleshooting-engine-stall.1080753/page-2#post-11912039I find conflict info on this part number. Do you have picture of this clip? Is there one or two such clip on the cover?
I saw that post before. That is the reason I asked how many such clip you have on your cover.You can refer to @2001LC ’s post #28 on this thread: Troubleshooting engine stall - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/troubleshooting-engine-stall.1080753/page-2#post-11912039
I may have typed in the incorrect price though in my parts list post.