Zinc additive to oil

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potter valley california
I just had my 2F rebuilt and the machinists told me to add zinc to the oil. For break in and at every oil change after. He also gave me high zinc oil for the break in. Any thoughts and what the zinc does.
 
High zinc (zddp) break in oil is absolutely necessary for first fire and break in. It's a high pressure lubricant and essential for flat lifter engines like the 2F.

I would not use an additive for break in. I would use an oil specifically formulated for break in and change it at 100 miles, or less then add fresh, high-zinc regular oil of your choice.

 
Is it the same with the 3FE or was the lifter design changed between the two? I've never used any ZDDP additive and IIRC the Mobil-1 and MMO mix I use doesn't contain more ZDDP than typical modern oils. But in 300k+ miles I've never had an issue so this had me curious.
 
High zinc (zddp) break in oil is absolutely necessary for first fire and break in. It's a high pressure lubricant and essential for flat lifter engines like the 2F.

I would not use an additive for break in. I would use an oil specifically formulated for break in and change it at 100 miles, or less then add fresh, high-zinc regular oil of your choice.

Spike I feel I have to use the oil and zinc additive he gave me when I picked up motor. I want to do everything he suggested and wrote down for break in. Then that way it’s on him. I don’t want to jeopardize my warranty. I know your cruiser knowledge if far superior than his.
 
Not necessarily for engines, but I understand your concerns.

You might call the builder and ask about the specific break in oils vs additives...
 
Valvoline VR1 and Mobil 1 15w50 are easily found and the highest in zinc you can find.

Brad Penn makes some excellent oils for these motors that are high in zinc, but they’re not on the shelf anywhere.
 
VR1 is what I have and will be using. Plus the zinc additive, because the guy that built it said to use it. I'm going to do what he recommends so if there is a problem it's on him
 
You should be running engine break in oil for the first 1000 miles. Then change the filter and oil. Royal purple, Joe gibbs are my favorite!

Justin
 
Many people run diesel engine oils (after break in) as the typically contain more wear additives than oil for gasoline engines. Lots of threads on this in the 40/55 forum.
 
I don’t know if you really need to add much more zinc to it, but I guess you could calculate how much additional to put in for a target of something like 1900 ppm?

I think if you just change your oil and filter regularly you are fine.
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i would recommend using it with every oil change. i didn’t know to use it in my chevelle engine (flat tappet) and after 120 000km a lifter took a lobe off my cam shaft and showered the engine with metal. once the chrome surface wears away the lobe gets eaten up pretty quick. $40 a couple times a year is way cheaper than an engine rebuild. it does work and i have 1st hand experience with NOT using it. it won’t harm anything.
 
i would recommend using it with every oil change. i didn’t know to use it in my chevelle engine (flat tappet) and after 120 000km a lifter took a lobe off my cam shaft and showered the engine with metal. once the chrome surface wears away the lobe gets eaten up pretty quick. $40 a couple times a year is way cheaper than an engine rebuild. it does work and i have 1st hand experience with NOT using it. it won’t harm anything.
any clue how much to add if I used shell rotella?
 
Dont use the additive, use an oil that has been formulated to have the higher zinc level built in that you want. That ensures the zinc will work properly with the oils wear pack chemistry.
When you add a zinc additive to X brand oil you have no idea if they have compatible chemistry. There have been tests that show accelerated wear when the additive disrupts the oils chemistry or vice versa. Sometimes they wont mix correctly and will make each other less effective.
Not all zinc has the same chemistry as well, so you are performing an experiment with your engine....

Also todays oil wear packs are more advanced than they used to be and contain other things that are 'better' than zinc now and provide the same benefit as zinc but in a different form. Theres a lot of science behind this and you can go pretty deep trying to understand it all, or just buy an oil with what you want in it already.
 
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Dont use the additive, use an oil that has been formulated to have the higher zinc level built in that you want. That ensures the zinc will work properly with the oils wear pack chemistry.
When you add a zinc additive to X brand oil you have no idea if they have compatible chemistry. There have been tests that show accelerated wear when the additive disrupts the oils chemistry or vice versa. Sometimes they wont mix correctly and will make each other less effective.
Not all zinc has the same chemistry as well, so you are performing an experiment with your engine....

Also todays oil wear packs are more advanced than they used to be and contain other things that are 'better' than zinc now and provide the same benefit as zinc but in a different form. Theres a lot of science behind this and you can go pretty deep trying to understand it all, or just buy an oil with what you want in it already.
i have an issue with rings on piston 3 on the new motor. they do fine heated up, but the wet/dry compression readings jumped from 99 to 133. im concerned this will cause more wear....
machine shop didnt do an awesome job on the engine build.

so... can I use lucaoil break in oil fr the rest of the vehicls life then???

Shell Rotella is in there now. planning on changing oil every 3000 miles.

Dan
 
oil isnt going to fix engine internals or stop the repercussions of a bad rebuild....
 
oil isnt going to fix engine internals or stop the repercussions of a bad rebuild....
not the point. its driveable with a leaky ring, an old cruiserhead told me to use more zinc and just drive the damn thing. he knows his stuff and told me the additive will help with the excess carbon in the engine etc.
 

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