gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Shows up in the stage between the Cart and when you have been on the product page and but hit added to cart. Can also usually find when you are on the speaker page and hit "accessories" tab.
Your Speakers & Why You Like Them - Morel's with Pics!
- Thread starter jammingator
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Sorry for the novice question Im going to installing the same setup as yours how do you mount the crossover to the door and you replaced the stock location tweeter with the new one right?
Illusion audio Carbon series. 6" component set up front 4" in rear all powered by a Jl audio HD 900/5.
Shallow mounting depth as magnet is in front of driver.
Shallow mounting depth as magnet is in front of driver.
- Thread starter
- #84
I used 3M Super Strength Molding Tape to mount the crossover to the door. For the tweeter, yes the new one is in the stock location but it's a bit bigger than stock so needed some minor modification. I used an Xacto knife to make the opening in the sail larger so that the tweeter would "fit" enough for the sail to be mounted to the door. The stock tweeter was bolted to a mount that attaches to the door behind the sail but the new one does not. So I basically "fit" the new tweeter into the sail opening and let the old tweeter mount provide support on the back side. I used some leftover DynaLiner and 3M tape to cover the back of the new tweeter and to fill the space in the sail so the tweeter will not bounce or rattle. A little hard to describe here - I'll see what I have for pictures and post them tomorrow to help.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #85
Here’s a look at the crossover. This worked well. Btw, I highly recommend using ferrules and heat shrink on the wire ends. You can pick up a kit with tool pretty reasonably and it makes for a good clean job and great connections.
- Thread starter
- #86
Here you can see better what I described above. I enlarged the opening in the sail just enough to allow the new tweeter to wedge in there with the sail mounted to the door. The Xacto knife was perfect as the plastic is pretty soft. You can also see the stock tweeter mount with 3M tape on it to help secure the wedged tweeter. Works great so far, no rattles or movement even though it’s technically not fastened. Sounds great too!
Thanks!
Jammingator...any pix of your head unit / amp set up? Now that you've had it for a year...impressions and would you change anything?
Resurrecting this thread in hopes that someone can weigh in on these Morel speakers:
I used the Crutchfield tool, and it was pretty overwhelming. I chatted with a support person and she recommended these.
It would be super awesome if there was an audiophile ( @suprarx7nut, perhaps?) who could just tell me what to replace my lower front door speakers with. Budget is $150-$300. Nothing else audio-related has been changed and there aren't plans to. Thanks!
I used the Crutchfield tool, and it was pretty overwhelming. I chatted with a support person and she recommended these.
It would be super awesome if there was an audiophile ( @suprarx7nut, perhaps?) who could just tell me what to replace my lower front door speakers with. Budget is $150-$300. Nothing else audio-related has been changed and there aren't plans to. Thanks!
Go with the component Morels rather than the coax. If you are already opening the doors it isn’t much more work to swap the tweeters as well. I just swapped for the morel components and my desire to upgrade everything else in my non-nav setup decreased quite a bit (for now).
Thanks rbrave. Makes sense. I've had this door off more times than I'd like to admit. Which component system did you purchase?
These guys: Morel Maximo 6 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MAXIM62/Morel-Maximo-6.html
I have also found that Crutchfield often has open box deals, if you wait around. I think my set was $20 off and there were a few screws missing from the box.
I have also found that Crutchfield often has open box deals, if you wait around. I think my set was $20 off and there were a few screws missing from the box.
Not sure I've earned the audiophile title, but appreciate it anyways!Resurrecting this thread in hopes that someone can weigh in on these Morel speakers:
I used the Crutchfield tool, and it was pretty overwhelming. I chatted with a support person and she recommended these.
It would be super awesome if there was an audiophile ( @suprarx7nut, perhaps?) who could just tell me what to replace my lower front door speakers with. Budget is $150-$300. Nothing else audio-related has been changed and there aren't plans to. Thanks!
If you're replacing nothing aside from the speakers I think most any name brand will do. It's hard to do anything too exciting until you're running a new amp with response you can control.
As an update to my system earlier in this thread. It's still the best thing I've heard in a car. I sold that and bought an LX that I haven't done anything with yet. My daily is a 2018 Model S with the "Ultra-Premium Audio" option or whatever. It's probably one of the better OEM systems I've heard, but it's nowhere close to that Morel/Focal/Audio Control setup I had in my 99. That was just on a different level of clarity and punch. It lacked a little mid-bass (never got around to sound-treating the doors), but had a TON of low end with the subs and those Morel tweeters in the Virtus and higher lines were just .... mmmm... so good. It's a bittersweet thing. There are many songs I just don't enjoy the way I used to because my current stereos can't reproduce them as well as I got used to with the Morels.
The vocals in the intro to Alice in Chain's Rooster was one I remember being wowed by. The layering is very cool when you can hear the vocals as two (or three or four?) different voices rising and falling. Listened to it in the Tesla the other day and you just can't make out that clarity.
Anyways, love the Morel speakers. I'll be buying more from them next time I upgrade a system.
I am considering where to go next with my setup, and the progression gets pretty expensive after speakers. Unsure how much I want to play with DSP when it sounds better than most already just with minor door treatment and speakers with stock HU and amp. If you were to do it over again with equipment today… what would you do? I am looking at a Sony Ax6000 and JL amp to pair with it, but there are a lot of more complicated setups these days to consider.
I think it's very dependent on your budget and expectations. It's tough because as soon as you want something "nice" you should really be running a proper aftermarket amp for the doors and subwoofer. That escalates the price of the build real fast.
Assuming you're aiming for something some might consider special and plan on replacing the factory amp:
Speakers are by far the most important part of the equation. Based on my experience, the tweeters are the soul of the system. Lots of subwoofers can sound great. Lots of components are great. Lots of tweeters are a huge let down - maybe because they flavor the sound or because they lack the clarity to let you hear details. They're probably the least sexy component and probably the first thing you actually notice in sound (aside from subwoofer rumble).
When you set your budget, ensure that speakers get the very first priority and the biggest budget allocation. You don't have to spend a fortune. IMO, the sweet spot is right around $400-700 for a component pair. That gets you into the low end of the "good stuff". With Morel that gets you neodymium magnets on the woofers and tweeters and I think that makes a difference. The Morel line goes up to $5k for a pair of speakers. I didn't notice an immediate difference after the $500-1000 range. Maybe' I'd be blown away by those higher end offerings in a perfect setting, but in the demos I got it was the Virtus and Hybrid lines that stood out as obviously better than their lower counterparts.
The DSP was a game changer for me, but the speakers sounded AWESOME even with the default settings on a normal AB class amp. The DSP will give you some clarity, but mostly even response and some sense of sound stage that you just can't achieve without active control over each component. Is that worth it? Definitely not for everyone. If you think MT tires are "quiet enough" and you don't mind the wind noise in your improperly installed windshield then you're not a DSP person, haha. The tweeter is right by your face. The mid is feet further away. If you spit out the same sound at the same time those noises don't hit your ear at the same time and your brain picks up on that. The result is a lack of clarity and detail. It can still sound good, but I think there's a valuable difference to be had when you delay each component. Again, not everyone cares.
If I were doing it again today:
Morel Virtus/Hybrid/Elate speakers (front only, no rear speakers at all)
Mosconi DSP (or some other 8 channel DSP)
Dual 10" subs in a sealed box
Sound treat the doors and rear wheel wells (I'd probably just do soundskin or something simple)
Some sort of amp arrangement (tons of great stuff out there now so I don't even know what's best)
Not sure if that helps, but there's my brain dump for the evening.
I'll throw this out there. I've vetted this guy, he didn't enjoy that exam... He kinda got bent out of shape/insulted with my questions, but in the end I feel 100% about him.
He's legit. You used to be able to get some great deals here. I haven't looked in a while.
Had great prices on Focals. To me, they sound awesome even on youtube
He's legit. You used to be able to get some great deals here. I haven't looked in a while.
Had great prices on Focals. To me, they sound awesome even on youtube
@rbrave Did you install your components with or without the crossover? I am at a loss on what to do with the tweeter wiring with no crossover, besides soldering it to the OEM connector. The how-to from Crutchfield only covers the lowers (which is very easy). Thanks for any info.
I think my tweaters have a "blocking" cap soldered there.
Look up what cap needs to be up there for Blocking lowend frequencies
That's if you are sure nothing is crossing them over before hand. The blocking cap won't hurt anything. There are calculators out there to tell you what cap you need, and maybe a resister. This should be enough info to get you started. If you don't mind soldering a bit
Usually component speakers come with a crossover
I used the crossover. The wire on the tweeters is plenty long to run from the crossover mounted near the door speaker to the sail panel. Not running the crossover will likely not sound as good. Just forget about the other wire that the old tweeter used to be run from. I used some heavy duty double sided tape to attach the crossover, after a wipe of the surface with alcohol.
Since I have an aftermarket HU, new amp and speakers is not complex. Yes I lose the volume knob, however steering wheel controls work.
2 way or 3 way Virtus? My experience is a good 2 way system + Dynamat in the doors is enough in most vehicle environments, however thoughts appreciated.
