Your Speakers & Why You Like Them - Morel's with Pics!

[jammingator]

Getting ready to replace the door speakers in my 2001 after installing a Kenwood DDX5706S this week. Right now I plan to stick with stock amp and wires unless I find an issue. I've read tons of threads but most of them are older and so wanted to ask for updates on the old as well as thoughts on speakers available today.

My budget is up to $250 for the front components and will buy rear doors to match. My stock sub is out but don't have a sub plan yet, starting with the doors and going from there. Is there anything American made in that price range?

Please let me know what you have and why you like them.

Thanks!

 

[gregnash]

I know that there is a recent one floating around that @suprarx7nut commented a bunch about what he is planning for doing in his build Cypress.
Basically, what they guys were saying is you want to spend the most for component system up front (front doors) as that is where the majority of the sound stage is. Then for rear doors you can go a bit cheaper.

Personally, I am looking at Hertz brand as I know they have been around for a long time, but also they are italian made and figure why not throw a little family heritage in there.
Also looked at the higher end JBL, Morel, Hertz and Infinity. However those are the brands that I know have good high end stuff, RF is in there too but have only ever dealt with their low to midrange stuff.

My question that I would like to add to the compendium is..
For the fronts, seeing as I will be replacing with a component system. Is it better to go with an active crossover from something like this...
or, is it better to go with something that is more passive crossover like this...

Like you, I will be running the stock amp for a while, first upgrade will be the headunit which will be my Joying Auto Android Headunit. Eventually when the amp is done, I will be ripping everything out and putting in a new sub as well, but for the time being the twin 4" in my '98 work fine.

 

[jpd motorsports]

Check out Digital Design. built in Oklahoma. Have used them personally and going to run them in my 100 when time comes to replace. (just did head unit so it almost time for them)

 

[brando1]

I’ve read every stereo thread in this forum and still cannot figure out the best plug and play solution.
too many people with differing levels of expertise and a long Production run on our model seems to make it hard to get an easy solution.
alpine ilx107 headunit Here.

 

[chrisratz]

I’ve read every stereo thread in this forum and still cannot figure out the best plug and play solution.
too many people with differing levels of expertise and a long Production run on our model seems to make it hard to get an easy solution.
alpine ilx107 headunit Here.

How do you like your Alpine head unit? I've been thinking about upgrading my Pioneer wired carplay deck with the Alpine wireless unit.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Getting ready to replace the door speakers in my 2001 after installing a Kenwood DDX5706S this week. Right now I plan to stick with stock amp and wires unless I find an issue. I've read tons of threads but most of them are older and so wanted to ask for updates on the old as well as thoughts on speakers available today.

My budget is up to $250 for the front components and will buy rear doors to match. My stock sub is out but don't have a sub plan yet, starting with the doors and going from there. Is there anything American made in that price range?

Please let me know what you have and why you like them.

Thanks!

Hopefully I'm not saturating the forum with too much of my input on this topic, but here's my take.

Forget rears entirely for now. Take that budget and spend it on even nicer fronts, a sub, an amp, a DSP, sound deadening, a head unit, wiring, weatherstrips, basically anything except rear door speakers. Rear door speakers are the final fill you can add when everything else is addressed, but IMO, it's a waste before you've done everything else.

I'm 90+% confident your new head unit is going to have a different ground plane than your OEM amp and that you will have terrible/poor sound quality until you bypass the factory amp. The OEM wiring uses a non-chassis ground for the headunit and amp. The aftermarket head unit will try to use chassis ground. This is a problem. You'll hear a ground loop hiss/hum or generally unclear audio. Plan on bypassing and running new wires.

Speakers: I'm in love with my Morel speakers. The Temp Ultra and Virtus series are the best bang for buck under $700, IMO. Made in Israel. I'm not aware of really nice American speakers that compete in that price range, but I didn't get to try Audiofrog or Image Dynamics or I'm sure plenty other options.

For me, there are a few "tiers" of speakers. Below ~$80 they're just not very good. From $100-300 you have some definite upgrades, but nothing that'll make you "experience" audio like you haven't before. From $350 and up you'll start to get into the "holy crap" level of detail and clarity. This tier will get you into the speakers that turn it into an "experience" more than just loud and clear music. Cymbals have character you didn't think was there. Snare drums sound different. Vocals give you goosebumps. Of course, price tag doesn't equate to quality, but I didn't audition anything under $300 that was "wow" worthy.

Get into the highest tier of front components you can (and count on needing to do that bypass).

 

[ramangain]

I run these Infinity components up front and coax in the rear and added these Infinity 2" drivers to the front doors since my LX came with the ML speakers. I'm very happy with the value and performance when run off an Infinity 4 channel amp.

 

[hickuptruck]

I run these Infinity components up front and coax in the rear and added these Infinity 2" drivers to the front doors since my LX came with the ML speakers. I'm very happy with the value and performance when run off an Infinity 4 channel amp.

How do you run 6 speakers to a 4 channel amp?

 

[katit]

When I did mine I was torn between 2 choices:
1. Brand name head-unit, aftermarket amp, front components. Basically what @suprarx7nut suggested. That would provide quality sound.

2. Android unit, TOYO adapter and re-foam stock speakers.

I went with #2 because it was cheaper, I kept ALL stock wiring/speakers intact and I have Android HU which gives me OBD, GPS, camera, etc. Basically freedom in tech.
However, audio is pretty much so-so. But it was cheaper, less work and more features.

 

[ramangain]

How do you run 6 speakers to a 4 channel amp?

The 2" speakers have a separate crossover, and the 6.5" components have a switch for 2 or 3 way operation and an output to feed the 2" speaker crossovers. Pretty slick.

For completion I also have a top notch Pioneer double DIN HU that has AutoEQ and Time Alignment, and a powered quick-disconnect Infinity 10" sub to round out the system. The only glaring omission is lack of steering wheel controls for direct control of the HU, which really sucks a$$.

 

[jerryb]

listen when supra talks about LC grounds, same for LX except worse. Don't replace a headunit without replacing the amp at the same time.
Or powered by the new deck.

 

[gregnash]

Ok so from a cost prohibitive nature where one must spread purchases out over time this is what I am here...
1. Upgrade Front Speakers with good component set (majority of speaker money spent here)
2. Upgrade amp, wiring at same time as headunit
3. Upgrade subwoofer (with dedicated amp or good high wattage 5-channel)
4. Upgrade rear door speakers

Reason being is I am trying to get the best bang for the buck as I spread purchases out over time to amortize the cost. Don't have a gob of money to drop on this stuff all at once, and honestly getting sick of having to turn on/off bluetooth cassette adapter and range of sound quality with my phone. I had planned on dropping money on the deck first, but that sounds like it will likely result in more of the same until Amp is replaced..

 

[katit]

Ok so from a cost prohibitive nature where one must spread purchases out over time this is what I am here...
1. Upgrade Front Speakers with good component set (majority of speaker money spent here)
2. Upgrade amp, wiring at same time as headunit
3. Upgrade subwoofer (with dedicated amp or good high wattage 5-channel)
4. Upgrade rear door speakers

Reason being is I am trying to get the best bang for the buck as I spread purchases out over time to amortize the cost. Don't have a gob of money to drop on this stuff all at once, and honestly getting sick of having to turn on/off bluetooth cassette adapter and range of sound quality with my phone. I had planned on dropping money on the deck first, but that sounds like it will likely result in more of the same until Amp is replaced..

#1 - I don't think you want to do that. Different Ohm than stock. Or, you will be limiting yourself to OEM Ohm and will not pick speakers you would otherwise. Speakers/Head/Amp go side by side
#3 - will be totally separate. You can't make use of stock amp if you do upgrade on front speakers/head. Or maybe you can - but don't. It will make your sound worse.
#4 - From what I learned - forget about rear speakers. Just dont hook them up. They will make whole thing sound worse. It will be a lot of effort/$ to match, get amp to power them ($) and they may not give you any additional good.

If you want sound Q - concentrate on good front comps ideally with Xover on amp and good amp/head unit. New wiring at least to AMP from HU.
Solid front comps will give you all sound you want. May add sub later on...

 

[jammingator]

Hopefully I'm not saturating the forum with too much of my input on this topic, but here's my take.

Forget rears entirely for now. Take that budget and spend it on even nicer fronts, a sub, an amp, a DSP, sound deadening, a head unit, wiring, weatherstrips, basically anything except rear door speakers. Rear door speakers are the final fill you can add when everything else is addressed, but IMO, it's a waste before you've done everything else.

I'm 90+% confident your new head unit is going to have a different ground plane than your OEM amp and that you will have terrible/poor sound quality until you bypass the factory amp. The OEM wiring uses a non-chassis ground for the headunit and amp. The aftermarket head unit will try to use chassis ground. This is a problem. You'll hear a ground loop hiss/hum or generally unclear audio. Plan on bypassing and running new wires.

Speakers: I'm in love with my Morel speakers. The Temp Ultra and Virtus series are the best bang for buck under $700, IMO. Made in Israel. I'm not aware of really nice American speakers that compete in that price range, but I didn't get to try Audiofrog or Image Dynamics or I'm sure plenty other options.

For me, there are a few "tiers" of speakers. Below ~$80 they're just not very good. From $100-300 you have some definite upgrades, but nothing that'll make you "experience" audio like you haven't before. From $350 and up you'll start to get into the "holy crap" level of detail and clarity. This tier will get you into the speakers that turn it into an "experience" more than just loud and clear music. Cymbals have character you didn't think was there. Snare drums sound different. Vocals give you goosebumps. Of course, price tag doesn't equate to quality, but I didn't audition anything under $300 that was "wow" worthy.

Get into the highest tier of front components you can (and count on needing to do that bypass).

I love your input so keep it coming! It's dangerous though because I love great sound and could easily go crazy on this. What I should have included is that this is my wife's ride and while she and my teenage kids love to jam there's a level of sound which will be fantastic for them - and enjoyable for me when I drive it - that will be considerably less than an experience.

As to grounding - as I remember, there is a ground wire to the metal framework behind the dash and then a ground wire from the OEM harness to the HU itself. Where would you want to run new ground wire to with a new sub, etc?

Very much considering Morel speakers, the Maximo Ultra 602 is right in my range for the front. Any thoughts?

 

[jammingator]

Check out Digital Design. built in Oklahoma. Have used them personally and going to run them in my 100 when time comes to replace. (just did head unit so it almost time for them)

Definitely going to check them out! They have several dealers in the KC area. They don't sell online, which is cool, so haven't found a ton of info yet. Looking at their website Speakers - DD Audio which do you plan to run?

 

[brando1]

How do you like your Alpine head unit? I've been thinking about upgrading my Pioneer wired carplay deck with the Alpine wireless unit.

Love it. Mine is the original wired version. Simple to use and reliable so far. only complaint is lack of volume knob.
Not to hijack dudes thread.
The head units seem to be the easiest part of the equation.

 

[jammingator]

^You're good!

 

[jammingator]

Good article from DD Audio on 'buying sound instead of speakers' here DD Audio Tech Talk: Mid-bass Madness – Getting the most out of your door speakers | 12voltmag.com

 

[suprarx7nut]

#1 - I don't think you want to do that. Different Ohm than stock. Or, you will be limiting yourself to OEM Ohm and will not pick speakers you would otherwise. Speakers/Head/Amp go side by side
#3 - will be totally separate. You can't make use of stock amp if you do upgrade on front speakers/head. Or maybe you can - but don't. It will make your sound worse.
#4 - From what I learned - forget about rear speakers. Just dont hook them up. They will make whole thing sound worse. It will be a lot of effort/$ to match, get amp to power them ($) and they may not give you any additional good.

If you want sound Q - concentrate on good front comps ideally with Xover on amp and good amp/head unit. New wiring at least to AMP from HU.
Solid front comps will give you all sound you want. May add sub later on...

Agreed. The factory amp isn't worth anything over the built in amp of most any aftermarket decks. Just bypass it. It's a small pain to address that, but well worth the effort.

I love your input so keep it coming! It's dangerous though because I love great sound and could easily go crazy on this. What I should have included is that this is my wife's ride and while she and my teenage kids love to jam there's a level of sound which will be fantastic for them - and enjoyable for me when I drive it - that will be considerably less than an experience.

As to grounding - as I remember, there is a ground wire to the metal framework behind the dash and then a ground wire from the OEM harness to the HU itself. Where would you want to run new ground wire to with a new sub, etc?

Very much considering Morel speakers, the Maximo Ultra 602 is right in my range for the front. Any thoughts?

Ok, good to have the background context. If rear seat occupant enjoyment is a consideration, the rear door speakers get a little more priority.

Grounding. The factory head unit uses low-voltage signal wires with an isolated ground. Aftermarket head units will use chassis ground for their signal wire ground. This is a problem if you feed the chassis ground from aftermarket head unit into the OEM amp that expects that special isolated ground from the OEM head unit. If you're running a ground wire for an aftermarket sub amp you just need any solid chassis ground. The OEM wiring is weird, but you can completely forget about that as soon as you bypass the factory amp/headunit. Hopefully that answers what you meant.

Morel Maximo Ultra - great value. Lots of speakers in that price range are mediocre, but the Maximo's are a bit better than average. The Tempo was a step up in my testing, but nothing earth-shattering. Maximo is a solid choice for that budget.

Good article from DD Audio on 'buying sound instead of speakers' here DD Audio Tech Talk: Mid-bass Madness – Getting the most out of your door speakers | 12voltmag.com

This is great to keep in mind. I've had a few systems over the years with and without treatment and some door treatment will definitely help mid-bass. The detail in the mid and highs is what you're buying when you spend more money on speakers, IMO. You can't mimic ultra clarity in vocals, cymbals and snare with any amount of door treatments. Just depends what you're after. I definitely have some gaps in response in mid-bass (~125 - 400 hz) that I'm sure would be removed or lessened with some time spent on door treatments. I have materials on hand and just haven't gotten around to it. Not because I don't want to do it, but because life is busy and the sound is still incredible even with a few select gaps in response in mid-bass.

If you're more restricted on budget than time, the good news is door treatment is relatively cheap to DIY. Just takes some time and <$100 in materials to make a great difference.

 

[OwnerCS]

I like to sound deaden a vehicle as one of the first steps in stereo improvement. Though there are some stock low-end systems that required a full upgrade. Most all of my projects have involved stock premium Bose systems with additional factory door tweeters. These were systems with decent high and mid-range. They just needed lower better mid- to low bass.

After installing a complete a multi layered sound deadening treatment, I lost the desire to upgrade the components. I discovered how well the original system did sound with good deadening and new door seals.

On one vehicle that fared extremely well after some serious deadening, 2.5 lbs of weight from deadening material was added to each door. The deadening and additional weight made it feel like I was closing the doors on a Maybach or some wildly expensive European.

An accidental benefit from sound deadening I discovered on one vehicle with a marginally effective R12 A/C system that had been converted to 134A, was an increase in cabin insulation. The old A/C didn't need to work as hard as it did before the sound deadening was installed.

So I found a side benefit for the HVAC system from a well done deadening project.

Roughly 10 years ago this summer, I used this Hummer H1 Diesel project as a guide.

Sound and Heat Insulating a