After a year of planning, collecting parts and slowly piecing it together, my York onboard air system is finally operational! 
This thread explains how I installed everything as well as some tips and tricks I learned along the way. I put things together in more or less random order based on what parts I had bought, but I'll explain the install in order from compressor to outlet. The York bracket is the kit from GreatLakesWaterJet that was built for the group buy put together by NLXTACY (Group Buy thread)
Parts list:
York 210 compressor
York bracket, tensioner, and water pump pulley
Napa XL 25-7375 - 10mm x 967mm
Kilby flanges
3ft hydraulic hose (with 1/4 NPT ends)
1/4" OD DOT tubing and fittings
Viair 1/4 NPT check valve
Viair 2.5 gallon air tank
Milton 1/2 NPT industrial filter
PowerFist manifold
PowerFist regulator
Viair safety valve 175psi
Viair pressure switch (110/145psi)
1/4 NPT bulkhead fitting
Miscellaneous fittings, wiring and stuff
Step 1: Install the pulley and bracket and belt
Installing the pulley is fairly simple. If you've removed your fan clutch it's only another step or two. If you haven't done the fan clutch and think you might want to, do it before you install the York. Trust me! Start by removing the two fan shroud bolts. Remove the four flange nuts holding the fan clutch on. Remove the fan and clutch by bringing it up between the radiator and shroud. Now you need to loosen the alternator belts. There are a couple of good writeups on this elsewhere, so I won't explain the details. Once loose, remove the pulley from the water pump and replace it with the new pulley in the kit. Put everything back together. Now, on to the bracket!
Some people might have a VIN plate covering some of the required holes. Joey explained how to remove it:
I had some trouble with the leading edge of the exhaust manifold heat shields hitting the bracket. Firedog explained the solution:
The last piece in the way is the accelerator cable bracket that is bolted to the head using the rearmost hole. Unbolt it and lay it aside for now.
Time to test fit the bracket! I found that one of the hole on each foot didn't quite line up, so I used a Dremel to slightly enlarge the problem holes. With the two holes enlarged the bracket lined up nicely with the head. My kit was missing the two M10 bolts for the front mounting foot, so I grabbed a couple that I had lying around as well as washers. I believe they were 40mm long. The rear bolts are M8, again probably 35 or 40mm. I checked the depth of all the bolts before using them to make sure they wouldn't bottom out in the head and ended up using a couple of washers to space the bolts out a bit. Just something to watch for, as a new head is $$$$
To reuse the accelerator cable bracket two things have to be done. First, bend the tabs on the bottom 180* so they now point away from the head. Second, check the clearance with the heater return pipe and do some grinding to make it fit.
The powder-coating on the brackets was a free bonus (I think), so it's not a perfect job. Easily solved with a can of Rustoleum once all the test fitting and grinding is done. Once the paint is dry, bolt the bracket to the head. With the bracket on you can drop the York in (fill it with oil first, I used 12oz of 5w40). I used 4 bolts on each side of the York to hold it in. I could have used the 4 bottom ones too, but I'm not worried about it coming out.
Now for the belt. The one in the kit didn't fit, but TrickyT managed to find the right size.
It fits!
Ok, it didn't fit that easily. I had to slightly bend the water pipe in the picture to keep the belt from rubbing on the hose. I did this by tapping it with a hammer handle and by prying it with a screwdriver. It didn't take much to clear the belt. The belt fit snugly between the York and the water pump pulley. I was able to get the tensioner pulley on by installing the pulley shaft, backing piece and tensioner bolt to the bracket and then pulling up on the pulley/belt and placing it on the pulley shaft. Install the pulley cover and lock nut, tension the belt and lock the nut.
At this point the kit is installed!
Everything from this point on is what I did for my OBA install to meet my needs and use the parts I had found and collected. You can follow my install or one of the others posted on this forum or make up your own.
Step 2: Installing the rest of the system
I used the Kilby flanges (::Kilby Enterprises::) to attach stuff to the York. I used a compressor filter on the intake side to keep dirt and dust out of the system. On the output side, I stepped it down to 1/4NPT and attached a 3ft hydraulic hose. I figured the hydraulic hose will take the heat coming off the compressor better.
From the compressor the hydraulic hose goes back to the firewall where attaches to 1/4 OD DOT air line. This line runs across the firewall, around the brake booster and down to the Viair tank mounted on the Metaltech slider's skid plate attachment. There is a check valve inline where the line comes in from the compressor, keeping the tank and system from back-feeding into the York (on the right).
The back end of the tank has plugs in it as well as a drain on the bottom
From the tank, the airline comes up to the filter (to remove any dirt/oil/water/gunk that doesn't settle out in the tank) and then into the manifold. The manifold is mounted to the firewall. Mounting it involved removing the wipers and cowl plate so I could get the nuts on the end of the bolts. There are also large washers behind the sheetmetal to support the weight. The manifold has the hookups for the pressure switch, in-cab gauge, schraeder valve and popoff valve.
After the manifold comes the regulator. The line then runs back across the firewall, down under the cruise control, air filter and second battery tray, out to a bulkhead fitting mounted on the bumper beside the Hellas. The quick disconnect screws into the bulkhead fitting and provides a solid mount when an airline is attached.
So that's the mechanical parts of the system installed, now on to the wiring!
Part 3: Wiring it all up
Obviously there are many ways to wire this. I tend to prefer keeping things as OEM as possible in the cab. This install was no different. I wanted to use Toyota switches and relays if possible. I also plan on installing an electric compressor at some point so I can have (limited) OBA without starting the engine, or have OBA while driving (without using the York, as too many RPMs will blow by a lot of oil), since I also want to put in a big rig airhorn. To that end, I wanted to use a 3 position switch (York on, off, electric on).
I recently removed my rear heater so I had that switch free as well as the wiring in the dash. After some searching here, I found a couple of threads about resoldering the LEDs in the rear heater switch to allow it to be used for controlling two functions (Rear heater switch wiring, Rear heater switch pinout). After resoldering the LEDs, I also wanted to reuse the wiring harness for the rear heater switch to trigger the relays for the compressors. I ordered two wiring splices for the rear heater connection, one for each compressor trigger. I switched pins 1 and 5 around and replaced pin 2 with the wire for the electric compressor (LO) and pin 4 with the wire for the York (HI). I also relabeled the switch (Switch relabels, Switch relabels installation)
So now with a switch in place I needed a relay as I don't want to run all the current through the switch. I followed TrickyT's explanation in this thread Using OEM fuse box for relay and fuse to install connectors for an OEM relay and fuse. I ran the trigger side of the relay coil to the pressure switch, and the other side of the pressure switch is connected to pin 4 from the switch. So now, with the switch on, current flows from 10A gauge fuse through the rear heater switch, out pin 4 to the pressure switch and from the pressure switch to the coil in the relay.
Note the third relay and second 10A fuse
Somewhere along the lines I ordered a hand throttle from Slee with this project in mind
So that's it! Everything is done. I've used it a few times to top up tires and it works great. Air tools definitely require higher RPMs and a bit of patience, but for use on the trail it should work fine.
This thread explains how I installed everything as well as some tips and tricks I learned along the way. I put things together in more or less random order based on what parts I had bought, but I'll explain the install in order from compressor to outlet. The York bracket is the kit from GreatLakesWaterJet that was built for the group buy put together by NLXTACY (Group Buy thread)Parts list:
York 210 compressor
York bracket, tensioner, and water pump pulley
Napa XL 25-7375 - 10mm x 967mm
Kilby flanges
3ft hydraulic hose (with 1/4 NPT ends)
1/4" OD DOT tubing and fittings
Viair 1/4 NPT check valve
Viair 2.5 gallon air tank
Milton 1/2 NPT industrial filter
PowerFist manifold
PowerFist regulator
Viair safety valve 175psi
Viair pressure switch (110/145psi)
1/4 NPT bulkhead fitting
Miscellaneous fittings, wiring and stuff
Step 1: Install the pulley and bracket and belt
Installing the pulley is fairly simple. If you've removed your fan clutch it's only another step or two. If you haven't done the fan clutch and think you might want to, do it before you install the York. Trust me! Start by removing the two fan shroud bolts. Remove the four flange nuts holding the fan clutch on. Remove the fan and clutch by bringing it up between the radiator and shroud. Now you need to loosen the alternator belts. There are a couple of good writeups on this elsewhere, so I won't explain the details. Once loose, remove the pulley from the water pump and replace it with the new pulley in the kit. Put everything back together. Now, on to the bracket!
Some people might have a VIN plate covering some of the required holes. Joey explained how to remove it:
I had some trouble with the leading edge of the exhaust manifold heat shields hitting the bracket. Firedog explained the solution:
The last piece in the way is the accelerator cable bracket that is bolted to the head using the rearmost hole. Unbolt it and lay it aside for now.
Time to test fit the bracket! I found that one of the hole on each foot didn't quite line up, so I used a Dremel to slightly enlarge the problem holes. With the two holes enlarged the bracket lined up nicely with the head. My kit was missing the two M10 bolts for the front mounting foot, so I grabbed a couple that I had lying around as well as washers. I believe they were 40mm long. The rear bolts are M8, again probably 35 or 40mm. I checked the depth of all the bolts before using them to make sure they wouldn't bottom out in the head and ended up using a couple of washers to space the bolts out a bit. Just something to watch for, as a new head is $$$$
To reuse the accelerator cable bracket two things have to be done. First, bend the tabs on the bottom 180* so they now point away from the head. Second, check the clearance with the heater return pipe and do some grinding to make it fit.
The powder-coating on the brackets was a free bonus (I think), so it's not a perfect job. Easily solved with a can of Rustoleum once all the test fitting and grinding is done. Once the paint is dry, bolt the bracket to the head. With the bracket on you can drop the York in (fill it with oil first, I used 12oz of 5w40). I used 4 bolts on each side of the York to hold it in. I could have used the 4 bottom ones too, but I'm not worried about it coming out.
Now for the belt. The one in the kit didn't fit, but TrickyT managed to find the right size.
It fits!
Ok, it didn't fit that easily. I had to slightly bend the water pipe in the picture to keep the belt from rubbing on the hose. I did this by tapping it with a hammer handle and by prying it with a screwdriver. It didn't take much to clear the belt. The belt fit snugly between the York and the water pump pulley. I was able to get the tensioner pulley on by installing the pulley shaft, backing piece and tensioner bolt to the bracket and then pulling up on the pulley/belt and placing it on the pulley shaft. Install the pulley cover and lock nut, tension the belt and lock the nut.
At this point the kit is installed!
Everything from this point on is what I did for my OBA install to meet my needs and use the parts I had found and collected. You can follow my install or one of the others posted on this forum or make up your own.Step 2: Installing the rest of the system
I used the Kilby flanges (::Kilby Enterprises::) to attach stuff to the York. I used a compressor filter on the intake side to keep dirt and dust out of the system. On the output side, I stepped it down to 1/4NPT and attached a 3ft hydraulic hose. I figured the hydraulic hose will take the heat coming off the compressor better.
From the compressor the hydraulic hose goes back to the firewall where attaches to 1/4 OD DOT air line. This line runs across the firewall, around the brake booster and down to the Viair tank mounted on the Metaltech slider's skid plate attachment. There is a check valve inline where the line comes in from the compressor, keeping the tank and system from back-feeding into the York (on the right).
The back end of the tank has plugs in it as well as a drain on the bottom
From the tank, the airline comes up to the filter (to remove any dirt/oil/water/gunk that doesn't settle out in the tank) and then into the manifold. The manifold is mounted to the firewall. Mounting it involved removing the wipers and cowl plate so I could get the nuts on the end of the bolts. There are also large washers behind the sheetmetal to support the weight. The manifold has the hookups for the pressure switch, in-cab gauge, schraeder valve and popoff valve.
After the manifold comes the regulator. The line then runs back across the firewall, down under the cruise control, air filter and second battery tray, out to a bulkhead fitting mounted on the bumper beside the Hellas. The quick disconnect screws into the bulkhead fitting and provides a solid mount when an airline is attached.
So that's the mechanical parts of the system installed, now on to the wiring!
Part 3: Wiring it all up
Obviously there are many ways to wire this. I tend to prefer keeping things as OEM as possible in the cab. This install was no different. I wanted to use Toyota switches and relays if possible. I also plan on installing an electric compressor at some point so I can have (limited) OBA without starting the engine, or have OBA while driving (without using the York, as too many RPMs will blow by a lot of oil), since I also want to put in a big rig airhorn. To that end, I wanted to use a 3 position switch (York on, off, electric on).
I recently removed my rear heater so I had that switch free as well as the wiring in the dash. After some searching here, I found a couple of threads about resoldering the LEDs in the rear heater switch to allow it to be used for controlling two functions (Rear heater switch wiring, Rear heater switch pinout). After resoldering the LEDs, I also wanted to reuse the wiring harness for the rear heater switch to trigger the relays for the compressors. I ordered two wiring splices for the rear heater connection, one for each compressor trigger. I switched pins 1 and 5 around and replaced pin 2 with the wire for the electric compressor (LO) and pin 4 with the wire for the York (HI). I also relabeled the switch (Switch relabels, Switch relabels installation)
So now with a switch in place I needed a relay as I don't want to run all the current through the switch. I followed TrickyT's explanation in this thread Using OEM fuse box for relay and fuse to install connectors for an OEM relay and fuse. I ran the trigger side of the relay coil to the pressure switch, and the other side of the pressure switch is connected to pin 4 from the switch. So now, with the switch on, current flows from 10A gauge fuse through the rear heater switch, out pin 4 to the pressure switch and from the pressure switch to the coil in the relay.
Note the third relay and second 10A fuse
Somewhere along the lines I ordered a hand throttle from Slee with this project in mind
So that's it! Everything is done. I've used it a few times to top up tires and it works great. Air tools definitely require higher RPMs and a bit of patience, but for use on the trail it should work fine.
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