- Thread starter
- #81
Try explaining replacement of a good bumper on the LC when your wife is driving around with a bashed up bumper. yea, the wife did have a few words about that..
Yeti’s Cryptid Hundy Build
- Thread starter yeti in ga
- Start date
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Try explaining replacement of a good bumper on the LC when your wife is driving around with a bashed up bumper. yea, the wife did have a few words about that..
Can you post pics of frame attach points. Interested in using to tow my ski boat.
- Thread starter
- #83
I will take some better ones tomorrow .. I think from looking at all points and if all bolts are used you should be fine. This bumper is very well made.
- Thread starter
- #84
installed Bump it off road rear bumper
First I want to thank others for posting their installs and how to’s. Anyone in the Atlanta area is more than welcome to swing bye and see this quality bumper or borrow any tools you need as you being your install.
I decide to go with the bolt on instead of the high clearance because I tow or use my bike rack more then I off road and the thought of cutting off the rear cross member
. Another thing that I did not want to have to reach up and under the bumper to put the hitch pin on the trailer ball. I also had Mike cut a hole for a 7 pin connector so that would be up high and protected. I also got the ladder and a swing away rotopax carrer. It can carry all size cans. It also can be removed completely and stored. It has welded tabs on the outside of the ladder to attach. It is really cool and simple.
Hardest parts: removing the rear hitch, cutting the notch.
Most important: having the right tool angle grinder corded not battery powered.
Best Trick: The ratchet strap used to pull in the 100lb strut for the tire swing out worked great.
Who ever posted that double THANKS !!
Need the right tools. The rear cross member is extra thick where you are cutting / notching. I did not start with a corded angle grinder. If I had that one tool $40 at Lowes it would have saved me some time and frustration. Once I bought that tool the work was cake. Also Don’t tighten everything up until all bolts are on and threaded. I had some issue with one of the wings and need to loosen all bolts for a second time to get it on.
First I want to thank others for posting their installs and how to’s. Anyone in the Atlanta area is more than welcome to swing bye and see this quality bumper or borrow any tools you need as you being your install.
I decide to go with the bolt on instead of the high clearance because I tow or use my bike rack more then I off road and the thought of cutting off the rear cross member
. Another thing that I did not want to have to reach up and under the bumper to put the hitch pin on the trailer ball. I also had Mike cut a hole for a 7 pin connector so that would be up high and protected. I also got the ladder and a swing away rotopax carrer. It can carry all size cans. It also can be removed completely and stored. It has welded tabs on the outside of the ladder to attach. It is really cool and simple.
Hardest parts: removing the rear hitch, cutting the notch.
Most important: having the right tool angle grinder corded not battery powered.
Best Trick: The ratchet strap used to pull in the 100lb strut for the tire swing out worked great.
Who ever posted that double THANKS !!
Need the right tools. The rear cross member is extra thick where you are cutting / notching. I did not start with a corded angle grinder. If I had that one tool $40 at Lowes it would have saved me some time and frustration. Once I bought that tool the work was cake. Also Don’t tighten everything up until all bolts are on and threaded. I had some issue with one of the wings and need to loosen all bolts for a second time to get it on.
- Thread starter
- #85
like others, I had the very rear bolts which hold the factory hitch on break off the captive nut inside of the frame and render that hole useless. I also had another problem with a captive nut being off center and unusable. These are used in mounting the support for the wings. It was suggested that I could drill into the side of the support and use the existing frame holes that are on the side of the frame. I think this is the best option; however I did not want to drill through thick steel. I went with a u bolt up and around the frame with the nuts at the top (protected). This was easy and seems to be very strong since the wing plate is there for upward force and will transfer the force into the frame and not on to the u bolt. If I was heading to Moab this may not be the best solution or you would need to use heavy duty u bolts.
All hardware seems to be excellent, I was missing some bolts for the latches which I ended up running over to Ace and picked up some stainless allen headed bolts, around $8. All drilled holes and fitted parts went on and lined up.
I still have to add the second swing out and ladder so more pictures of that to come.
- Thread starter
- #86
OK here is the ladder and rotopax carrier installed.
The added can carrier really can carry just about anything from a single can to a double and could carry other items. It can swing either way and has quick disconnect so it can be removed quickly.
I went this way because I thought it was cool and I wanted the rear profile to be close into the rear. I bought a water pack and a gas pack so for on the east cost I should be covered.
I think it turned out nice...
The added can carrier really can carry just about anything from a single can to a double and could carry other items. It can swing either way and has quick disconnect so it can be removed quickly.
I went this way because I thought it was cool and I wanted the rear profile to be close into the rear. I bought a water pack and a gas pack so for on the east cost I should be covered.
I think it turned out nice...
Looks very nice! Is this bumper more expensive than the high clearance BIO rear bumper?
Looks great. Mike (BIO) really needs to post this bumper type on his site. What he has up there looks completely different from what you posted. He is losing sales left and right from the people who don't want/like the tube style wings. The only other design I am aware of, covers them up on one side with sheet metal.
For comparison:
1. BIO "standard". This is the one you see posted most often:
2. BIO "covered". If you do see sheet metal on the wings, it usually looks like this:
3. BIO "bolt-on". This design appears more filled in and is my personal favorite:
For comparison:
1. BIO "standard". This is the one you see posted most often:
2. BIO "covered". If you do see sheet metal on the wings, it usually looks like this:
3. BIO "bolt-on". This design appears more filled in and is my personal favorite:
Last edited:
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Mmmm, Atlantic Blue Mica . . .
So, how much is this one? Love how it looks!
So, how much is this one? Love how it looks!
- Thread starter
- #92
yeti in ga said:
I thought it was more with the ladder and tire carrier?
- Sent from a better phone than an iPhone
Great price, great looking! Nice!
Looking good Yeti!
I agree with pfran42 that the BIO website could benefit from some additional bumper design / model pictures but Mike does mention his designs can be customized or built to the taste of the customer. I've talked to Mike about rear bumper options several times and he told me about the bolt on model option that was designed for those that didn't want to cut the rear cross member off. There should be pictures of a few others with the bolt on model if you search a little. The original "high clearance" rear bumper gives maximum ground clearance and does have some options that can be changed as pointed out above. I personally like the tubed / protection wings that can be left open, plated, tube added inside wings, etc. Ultimately it's nice to be able to order what best fits your build like Yeti has done.
I agree with pfran42 that the BIO website could benefit from some additional bumper design / model pictures but Mike does mention his designs can be customized or built to the taste of the customer. I've talked to Mike about rear bumper options several times and he told me about the bolt on model option that was designed for those that didn't want to cut the rear cross member off. There should be pictures of a few others with the bolt on model if you search a little. The original "high clearance" rear bumper gives maximum ground clearance and does have some options that can be changed as pointed out above. I personally like the tubed / protection wings that can be left open, plated, tube added inside wings, etc. Ultimately it's nice to be able to order what best fits your build like Yeti has done.
- Thread starter
- #98
I try not to think about it. 
shipping to ATL was expensive.
shipping to ATL was expensive.
...but if you have a commercial address to use you can save some money... 
so... what's it like getting the spare up onto the carrier? I think I might have to set the tire on the toe of a hi-lift and ratchet it up.
it's a beefy rack to be sure. do you get any sway or vibration on the spare? that's a big weight to suspend up there and on a pivot arm.
it's a beefy rack to be sure. do you get any sway or vibration on the spare? that's a big weight to suspend up there and on a pivot arm.
