Yet another BJ42 frame off-Dbradford04 (1 Viewer)

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coming together

So the engine is coming together. Figuring out the new AC bracketry, PS, Turbo mounted etc. Just figuring out how to add stuff that didn't come with the motor.

Deo has been a big help, my dad who worked for Toyota training mechanics back in the 70's and 80's is coming this week, and I am going to try to convince crushers to come down to sort out all the stuff I'm not smart enough to do.

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random stuff

A few other random pics.

I started drilling holes through the glass tub today, and will do a bunch more tomorrow. Once the driver side holes are cut, I can figure out the PS mounting, finish the tub mounting, then ready to start really assembling stuff!

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Looking good! :cool:

I don't know about your Toyota turbo, but I clocked my MB turbo straight up and down and used 2 silicone 90*s to mount it. AFAIK, all turbos are "clockable".

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:cheers:
 
funny, "he says i should have told him to plug the holes" ... he is the pro, no?
it does look good.
cheers
 
progress!

So I cut my first holes in the firewall today and test fitted some things...went well.

One issue is that the indents in the firewall do not match my steering column support, so that will still take some careful cutting and testing, but otherwise got a ton of stuff figured out.

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steering

The whole point of the exercise of cutting the firewall and temporarily mounting the column is to locate the mini truck power steering box and get it bolted to the frame.

As mentioned in a previous post, the power steering mounting bracket from TLC was just not made for a 3B moved forward 4 inches. It is just TIGHT. I had to slice off a big part of the bracket so as not to hit the starter, and now I will really have to be careful that the steering box doesn't touch. I'll know more soon, but it is just TIGHT.

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bang bang bang as the cold 3B fires up ... then when smooth you have tons of clearence.

you still have your old firewall? there is your template but measure from the OUTSIDE of the tub since the inside can have 1/2" of fiberglass.
 
Bang Bang

:doh: Bang Bang?? I think I can make it work, I am playing around with the steering box..funny how 1/2 of an inch movement here and there on the mount can change the geometry of the steering. Placement of the column has ramifications all the way to the drag link.

...Isn't that the over-inject device it could hit?? Do I even need it? This motor fired up in the run position without even glowing in our warm Florida weather. The first thing I did when I got it was stick a 12V starter in it and fire it up.

My old firewall is long gone, but I have pictures, and it's pretty obvious where the support goes in any case. Even if its off by a smidge it wont matter me thinks.

Thanks for reading my posts Wayne!

D
 
yah, i was joking with you.
the firewall is pretty handy though, if it is gone :meh: you will make do.
 
Still kicking myself for getting rid of the old tub, but i had no place to keep it at all..There are quite a few bits I could have used, and some clues that are gone. I took tons of pictures though, so that helps.
 
Gutter

After much going back and forth. SEM is THE stuff to use in your gutter..Went on like a charm, but for future reference, it takes 3 7oz. tubes of the stuff. I bought 2 of course in keeping with Murphy's law. The good news is that it went down easily..adhered perfectly, and the cold joints will be fine where I came back and finished. I will need to sand a bit in one spot where it overlapped.

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Now on to the steering...Murphy's Law

So I was at the point where I needed to mount the power steering adapter to do my mini truck conversion.

I cut the firewall to accept the steering wheel, clamped the steering box on to the stand, and tested the alignment etc.

Suffice it to say that it did not go well. I messed with it all day. Came back and re-read as many mini truck steering conversion threads as I could.

Then posted my issues here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/65318-my-mini-truck-power-steering-install-8.html

The issues are many. I'll do my best to lay it out here in a logical fashion.

1. Test mounted the box with c-clamps, (issue one you should know about is that this is a RHD frame from Oz). I have no way to know exactly where the adapter stand should mount, except the holes lined up right where I though they should be. (issue 2 is that the 3B starter is precariously close as is the over inject spring.)

2. "soft fitted" the pitman arm to the box. (issue two you should know about is that the pitman arm is from an FJ40 and has the 2 marks on it to align it properly, BUT the steering box from the mini does not. Now it's a guessing and fiddling game).

3. I counted the turns of the box about 2 dozen times, and it's about 4-3/4 turn-to-turn. I did 2-3/8's turns about 2 dozen times and then marked the center of the output shaft.

4. I "soft mounted" the drag link and attached the steering column centered. I was able to turn one revolution to the right, and all the way to the left. On the right hand turn, the pitman arm was moving toward the cab, and was hitting the mounting plate.

5. I disconnected the drag link from the center arm, and moved the pitman arm a couple of times trying it each time, and finally found the sweet spot, where I could easily move the steering wheel bell to bell without it hitting anything..problem solved right?? Nope...the drag link is now 3-4" too long.

6. Another problem is that the box does not line up well with the steering column. The rag joint was functioning too much like a swivel. I attribute this to any number of things, fiberglass body raised up an inch from stock...wrong mounting position as mentioned above for the steering box...nothing a swivel joint and some cutting and welding wont cure at the end of the day.

The main question I have is a "what if"...are there any downsides to having to cut the drag link at the end of the day to make everything all line up.

Thanks for reading.

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a few mor pictures

Here are a few more pictures of the steering.

As you can see, I have the pitman arm and tie rod ends adjusted in as far as they can go.

Any thoughts or direction would be helpful.

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Back to the turbo

So if you were following along, you will see that I had an issue with my turbo being too low. The crossover tube would have run into the valve cover.

Found a guy on ebay thanks to Deo's suggestion. The guy on ebay only had a 1/2" spacer, but custom made me a 3/4" spacer to fit. I ordered some turbo odds and ends along with a couple of new gaskets, and here is what ensued.

Remember Murphy's Law.

Turbo raised..problem solved....not so fast..Where do you find stupid long studs...nowhere.

OK..remove old studs...in accordance with Murphy's Law...the first three came out with little or no trouble..#4...wouldn't budge...PB Blaster..fiddle with some steering stuff for a couple of hours...still wont budge..trip to Lowe's to get a little torch to apply some heat..finally came out.

Put in some long bolts after cleaning out the threads...get out the trusty Dremel...out of cutting blades...back to Lowe's.

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oil lines

Oil lines attached to the turbo. All that is left is to get some hose to go to the bung in the oil pan.

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yep

Yah..no doubt about that...I can accomplish that in a multitude of ways. I'm more concerned about the drag link. I need an extra pair of hands to position things better and fiddle with it some more.

At the end of the day, I may just position the box in the best place possible (clearing the starter and the overinject stop) and cut the drag link to size..WCS is that I have to buy a new one from SOR or someplace...STRONGLY considering getting an aftermarket steering column any way.
 
A u-joint would work fine. But, you're adding money needlessly IMO. Have you welded in the steering box mount yet? If not, just put it at the correct angle and tack it in. No need to shim the box itself.

Everything else is looking great! Nice to see some progress! I take it you made it home for a couple of days?

:cheers:

edit: And yes, it looks like your drag link is way too long. Odd. Not sure why that would be. But, Budbuilt can make you a nice beefy one. That's where I got my drag link for my 60 series swap. Mine is set up for an 80 series rod end at the pitman arm and a 40 series at the other end. Beefy! They can set it up any way you like.
 
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