lx450landcruiser
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Yep. Another Off Road/Adventure Type Trailer Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter VFRMAN
- Start date
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Ok..update time kids!! 
A couple closed with the tent flipped to open to the side....
A couple closed with the tent flipped to open to the side....
And a few more with the tent open inc. changing room and awning
Enjoy and let me know what you need..or don't like
You can always chuck the kids inside or in the charging room if there small...fwiw
Pat
BTW...everything is as true to scale as the measurements that are provided above..hopeing you read a friggin ruler..
..
Enjoy and let me know what you need..or don't like
You can always chuck the kids inside or in the charging room if there small...fwiw
Pat
BTW...everything is as true to scale as the measurements that are provided above..hopeing you read a friggin ruler..
..
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Married once....kids are grown and gone.....and now engaged....and just like you, now a womam runs my life!!;p
This is my form of decompressing..I've screwed around with this long enough to get better, but there's still a long way to go..
Enjoy..one more version...I tend to be a little impartial to this look..
Kewl ideas and nice depictions. Now build it! 
VFRMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #28
Just got it home. Laid it on top of the trailer with the existing wood sides just to hold it up.
One bonus is the shell has rain gutters that will fit the Yakima towers perfectly if I put shorter bolts on the tent mount. In theory I could eliminate even making a rack system out of tubing if the shell is tough enough to hold the tent. It's beefy so I really don't think it would have any issues supporting the tent, but will have to look deeper to be sure. With the tool boxes installed, it is pretty stout.
Wheel is a 295/75/16 just leaning up against the trailer so a hair shorter than the 315 that will ultimately go on. Plus the springs, etc are still the little 2000#'ers. Ride height will go up quite a bit when mounted on the 3500# springs.
Anyway, this is just a quick look at it. Once I see it in person, I don't think height will be too bad, but I have to figure out tongue weight and whether or not I should shorten up the back end a bit. Lot of overhang like this. No tongue weight yet, but haven't decided what all is going on the front end to shift the weight. Maybe just weld the 3500# hangers farther back?
We'll see.
One bonus is the shell has rain gutters that will fit the Yakima towers perfectly if I put shorter bolts on the tent mount. In theory I could eliminate even making a rack system out of tubing if the shell is tough enough to hold the tent. It's beefy so I really don't think it would have any issues supporting the tent, but will have to look deeper to be sure. With the tool boxes installed, it is pretty stout.
Wheel is a 295/75/16 just leaning up against the trailer so a hair shorter than the 315 that will ultimately go on. Plus the springs, etc are still the little 2000#'ers. Ride height will go up quite a bit when mounted on the 3500# springs.
Anyway, this is just a quick look at it. Once I see it in person, I don't think height will be too bad, but I have to figure out tongue weight and whether or not I should shorten up the back end a bit. Lot of overhang like this. No tongue weight yet, but haven't decided what all is going on the front end to shift the weight. Maybe just weld the 3500# hangers farther back?
We'll see.
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VFRMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #29
One more of rain gutter and a couple of the Leer lid I got too. If someone wants it, let me know. I may not have time or energy to undertake 2 projects this winter.
I got it as a package deal with the shell. It's like brand new and looks like it has all the mounting clamps too.
And I just found a key in the tool box lock! Wasn't even expecting that. BONUS!
I got it as a package deal with the shell. It's like brand new and looks like it has all the mounting clamps too.
And I just found a key in the tool box lock! Wasn't even expecting that. BONUS!
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Well if your thinking 2 batteries and 20 gallons of fluid...there's probably 250-300 lbs forward of the wheels, with the the weight distributed between the tow vehicle and trailer
Hell.....looks just like the pics!..
The new axle should raise it considerably though no?
Pat
Hell.....looks just like the pics!..
The new axle should raise it considerably though no?
Pat
VFRMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #31
Yeah the axle will bring it up a bunch I would guess. See what you can make of my new "Calculations"Well if your thinking 2 batteries and 20 gallons of fluid...there's probably 250-300 lbs forward of the wheels, with the the weight distributed between the tow vehicle and trailer
Hell.....looks just like the pics!..
The new axle should raise it considerably though no?
Pat
. And remeasuring, the trailer is only 51" wide. Forgot I used 1 1/2" x 3" tubing. Oops.
Wait....These trailer sides are 19" high.
Ok..so here's a few back at ya!
Can you weld some material on the outside frame to make up the difference so the top fits better?
If you can extend each side by say 3" (3" x 3" x .125 tube) so that top fits the width much closer? Then skin it with metal or plywood with plastic material over it. The problem is the door portion itself is 53.5 wide....so it would be nice to have the cap (59.5) fit snug and water tight. I think the closer you get to outside dimension of the cap the stronger the trailer will be (inc. the weight of the tent and occupants)
If the extending of the sides is possible and your going to order a new axle anyway...just get an axle cut to right length to fit underneth with 2" of clearance between the trailer walls (don't bank on that, maybe someone with experience in determining axle lengths could hop in here.
Pat
Can you weld some material on the outside frame to make up the difference so the top fits better?
If you can extend each side by say 3" (3" x 3" x .125 tube) so that top fits the width much closer? Then skin it with metal or plywood with plastic material over it. The problem is the door portion itself is 53.5 wide....so it would be nice to have the cap (59.5) fit snug and water tight. I think the closer you get to outside dimension of the cap the stronger the trailer will be (inc. the weight of the tent and occupants)
If the extending of the sides is possible and your going to order a new axle anyway...just get an axle cut to right length to fit underneth with 2" of clearance between the trailer walls (don't bank on that, maybe someone with experience in determining axle lengths could hop in here.
Pat
VFRMAN
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- Thread starter
- #33
Hi Pat,
I wasn't very clear on my drawing. (go figure The doors are only 45" wide. The whole bottom of the shell is only 53 1/2" wide. Still needs a little fill, but I was thinking of using the same tubing I use for the rack/framework. 1"-1 1/2" or so.
Planning on looking closer tomorrow to figure the rest out and the axle length so I can get that ordered.
Get electric brakes or not? I think this is going to be heavier than I thought. Might be worth it? Not sure.
I wasn't very clear on my drawing. (go figure
The doors are only 45" wide. The whole bottom of the shell is only 53 1/2" wide. Still needs a little fill, but I was thinking of using the same tubing I use for the rack/framework. 1"-1 1/2" or so. Planning on looking closer tomorrow to figure the rest out and the axle length so I can get that ordered.
Get electric brakes or not? I think this is going to be heavier than I thought. Might be worth it? Not sure.
What's the the TV? I vote yes for brakes. A classic case of better to have em' and not need em' then need em' and not have em'. Do you plan on lot's of driving? Brakes can help to slow the TV in some off road scenerios from what I heard.
VFRMAN
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- Thread starter
- #35
I drive nonstop all day long, but that's part of the problem. No time to actually use my toys. Hoping to develop some sort of time management/scheduling software that tells me to shut my phone off and decompress for "x" amount of time per day/week/month. Can Google SketchUp do that for me too?
I was just going to buy the axle locally at the same place I've bought all of my other trailer stuff, but they are way higher for this 3500# set up when I first checked. ABC Trailer looks like the way to go from everyone's testimonials here. ~$235 if I remember right for a complete set up w/electric brakes. Shipping I don't know though so we'll see. Like buying local if possible.
The choice of "Have em' and not need em' vs. need em' and not have em"? Kind of like condoms, and me having 4 kids. Which choice did I obviously make on 4 different occasions?
This time with the trailer, it's going to be "have em' and hope I don't need em."
The pics I attached here is what I'm thinking for fenders. (Where have I seen this before? Once I get the width of material I need to add to the trailer figured out to make the shell fit perfectly snug, I want to weld on something similar to these.
Just using tube again, start in front of the tires, flare out to the tire width, then back to the frame. Maybe even use the bender to form the whole fender mount out of tube, weld it to the existing 1 1/2" x 3" tube, then skin with plate again?
Brings up the nagging question again though, what happens when I stick a puny 12" wheel on a 2000# set-up back in there? Not really sure if I even care anymore. If I like the dimensions, and the way this whole thing pulls down the road and actually functions in the field, I'll just build a new frame like I said before and do it up right. Then the original trailer can just turn back into my grass and leaf hauler, except now with some big ass tires on it.
I was just going to buy the axle locally at the same place I've bought all of my other trailer stuff, but they are way higher for this 3500# set up when I first checked. ABC Trailer looks like the way to go from everyone's testimonials here. ~$235 if I remember right for a complete set up w/electric brakes. Shipping I don't know though so we'll see. Like buying local if possible.
The choice of "Have em' and not need em' vs. need em' and not have em"? Kind of like condoms, and me having 4 kids. Which choice did I obviously make on 4 different occasions?
This time with the trailer, it's going to be "have em' and hope I don't need em."
The pics I attached here is what I'm thinking for fenders. (Where have I seen this before?
Once I get the width of material I need to add to the trailer figured out to make the shell fit perfectly snug, I want to weld on something similar to these. Just using tube again, start in front of the tires, flare out to the tire width, then back to the frame. Maybe even use the bender to form the whole fender mount out of tube, weld it to the existing 1 1/2" x 3" tube, then skin with plate again?
Brings up the nagging question again though, what happens when I stick a puny 12" wheel on a 2000# set-up back in there? Not really sure if I even care anymore. If I like the dimensions, and the way this whole thing pulls down the road and actually functions in the field, I'll just build a new frame like I said before and do it up right. Then the original trailer can just turn back into my grass and leaf hauler, except now with some big ass tires on it.
VFRMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #36
The short version: What axle length do I need?
The long version:.....
My assumptions:
1. trailer bed is currently 51" wide
2. will be adding 1 1/2" sq tube material to make it 54" wide to better fit shell
3. Stock LC wheels with 4.5" backspacing
4. Would like ~2" (?) clearance between outside edge of trailer and inside of 315/75/16 tire(12.3" tread, but how much to account for for sidewall/flex, etc?).
5. From what I read here, 63.5" is stock 80 series axle width, mating surface to mating surface. Would like to closely mirror that if possible, but looks like I'll be wider using this 51" bed. That's fine.
6. Likely have to order custom axle length because the 71" standard axle has spring perches mounted at 58"(too wide). Also the 62" has them at 48". Just order the 71" standard as it comes, plus an extra set of spring perch mounts that I can weld where ever I want?
7. If I just order the 71" axle and weld the spring perch mounts onto my trailer where they fit, at about ~51" or so, does this stress any part of the axle?
Basically is there any rule to follow on where the perches go in relation to overall length? Since all of the standard lengths seem to have standard perch location dimensions.
8. Electric brakes
9. Ultra lube spindles, or no?
That's about it. Way too much thinking about this stuff is driving me loony. I just want to buy an axle and bolt it to my trailer.
Thanks.
The long version:.....
My assumptions:
1. trailer bed is currently 51" wide
2. will be adding 1 1/2" sq tube material to make it 54" wide to better fit shell
3. Stock LC wheels with 4.5" backspacing
4. Would like ~2" (?) clearance between outside edge of trailer and inside of 315/75/16 tire(12.3" tread, but how much to account for for sidewall/flex, etc?).
5. From what I read here, 63.5" is stock 80 series axle width, mating surface to mating surface. Would like to closely mirror that if possible, but looks like I'll be wider using this 51" bed. That's fine.
6. Likely have to order custom axle length because the 71" standard axle has spring perches mounted at 58"(too wide). Also the 62" has them at 48". Just order the 71" standard as it comes, plus an extra set of spring perch mounts that I can weld where ever I want?
7. If I just order the 71" axle and weld the spring perch mounts onto my trailer where they fit, at about ~51" or so, does this stress any part of the axle?
Basically is there any rule to follow on where the perches go in relation to overall length? Since all of the standard lengths seem to have standard perch location dimensions.
8. Electric brakes
9. Ultra lube spindles, or no?
That's about it. Way too much thinking about this stuff is driving me loony. I just want to buy an axle and bolt it to my trailer.
Thanks.
VFRMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
Not really an "update" since I haven't actually built anything yet, but a few more ideas rolling around. I think I may be trying to make this thing do too many things and I'll end up with a 40' car hauler when I'm done.
Also, the size of this when it's done would likely be too big for most Mudders on any tight trails, but like I said before, I probably won't be seeing any anytime soon.
I want to be able to mount the tent off the back as planned, but I'd like to be able to set up a Yakima-type rack off the front(mounted to 1 1/2" tubing framework) to haul 4-5 mountain bikes. Pics just show it kind of mocked up with one bike mount.
The whole frame will ultimately be 1 1/2" light gauge tubing(Since that's the only dies my buddy has for his bender), but it was just easier laying things out with some 2x4's to get an idea of where everything will go.
The child gate just happened to work for visualizing how things might look.
Spare tire? Thinking now just sticking it in the front end of the trailer inside, but I like the idea of laying it flat out in front with a slide-out access panel to get at it if needed. I still have big drawer slides that need a purpose. This would keep it hidden and out of sight and the elements, but still easy to get to if you have a flat in the dark somewhere with the thing loaded to the hilt. Trying to fit the tire flat as well as a slide out kitchen. Still thinking how all this would fit together.
Also, the size of this when it's done would likely be too big for most Mudders on any tight trails, but like I said before, I probably won't be seeing any anytime soon.
I want to be able to mount the tent off the back as planned, but I'd like to be able to set up a Yakima-type rack off the front(mounted to 1 1/2" tubing framework) to haul 4-5 mountain bikes. Pics just show it kind of mocked up with one bike mount.
The whole frame will ultimately be 1 1/2" light gauge tubing(Since that's the only dies my buddy has for his bender), but it was just easier laying things out with some 2x4's to get an idea of where everything will go.
The child gate just happened to work for visualizing how things might look.
Spare tire? Thinking now just sticking it in the front end of the trailer inside, but I like the idea of laying it flat out in front with a slide-out access panel to get at it if needed. I still have big drawer slides that need a purpose. This would keep it hidden and out of sight and the elements, but still easy to get to if you have a flat in the dark somewhere with the thing loaded to the hilt. Trying to fit the tire flat as well as a slide out kitchen. Still thinking how all this would fit together.
VFRMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #38
few more pics from today. Just mocked up on the trailer. Tongue weight is pretty light even without the tent. With the tent it's way too light. May have to shift the new axle back when it's ready. Planning a lot of weight up front, but if it's empty I don't want the whole thing popping off the trailer hitch. We'll see how it goes when I decide where everything is going to sit.
VFRMAN
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
few more.
The tent is sitting 90 degrees off of where it should be. Planning on it opening off the back as Pat had it drawn in Google Sketchup. Might make it even heavier back there so axle placement will be pretty important.
edit: the LC wheel is just sitting there with a jack holding up the old axle to about the right height.
The tent is sitting 90 degrees off of where it should be. Planning on it opening off the back as Pat had it drawn in Google Sketchup. Might make it even heavier back there so axle placement will be pretty important.
edit: the LC wheel is just sitting there with a jack holding up the old axle to about the right height.
Lookin good!!
Just make sure your bars are going to be able to handle the load of the tent and occupants
You had Gas and water figured for the front? (figure around 7-8 lbs. per gallon of liquid)
Where's the battery going ?(to power courtesy lighting of course
)
Even with the battery on the tongue is ample for my old one once the gear is inside, the water (21 gallons) and cooler make it like 300lbs of tongue weight, probably too much!
I think the mock up on the whole looks great!
Just make sure your bars are going to be able to handle the load of the tent and occupants
You had Gas and water figured for the front? (figure around 7-8 lbs. per gallon of liquid)
Where's the battery going ?(to power courtesy lighting of course
)Even with the battery on the tongue is ample for my old one once the gear is inside, the water (21 gallons) and cooler make it like 300lbs of tongue weight, probably too much!
I think the mock up on the whole looks great!
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