The Calf: Fj55 off road trailer to follow Moose around (1 Viewer)

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Decided to share my 55 trailer build. So here we go:
Matt (@DirtDauberGarage) and I went in on a parts 55 to assist with restoring our own 55's. (Mine is not-so-cleverly named Moose). We divided up the parts we needed and then sold or gave away the parts we did not need.
And this is what we ended up with:
IMG_0781.JPG


It felt like a shame to drop the rest off at the recycler. As Matt and I were saying our goodbye's to the "carcass", Matt says " You said you wanted an off road trailer. That's what you should do with the remains". I loved the idea. In fact I was so excited I nearly showed emotion. After compiling myself, I started cutting and ended up with this:

IMG_0784.JPG
 
The frame is in really good condition so I began cutting, bending and welding to make the tongue area. I used 4x4 steel and 5,000 lb posi-lock couple and a heavy duty trailer jack. All hardward is also grade 8. Also began wiring for the trailer lights. I plan to wire into the OEM rear lights.

hitch.jpg

frame.jpg
 
Next comes the hours of welding to seal the rear doors to the rest of the body and sand down the entire body and prep for primer:

door welding.jpg


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I will be keeping the fuel tank in place. It is in good condition and may be handy to have on long trips. The roof is in pretty good condition so I plan to shorten it and use it as a lid for Calf. On the tongue I will lay down plate steel and a locking tool box. As far as the bed, I still have not decided exactly what I am going to do yet. Will likely do steel or plywood on the sides and front and coat it all with bed liner. For the exterior I will paint it the same two-tone color scheme that I will paint Moose with so they will match.
 
What a great project. You made a wise move by deleting what was up front. I went through two sets of front fenders, etc before giving up and selling my 55 back in the day. Water would get in and trickle down the front door post in a channel at the back of the fender where it joine the firewall that Mr. T seemed to have placed to encourage rust forming. A verical rust belt would bubble up from that. At least that's what happened here in the gnarly Midwest during those horrific winters of the end of the 70s.
 
Update: To the front:

I got a piece of steel for the front part of the body and welded it on and some plate steel for the tongue area:

trailer front 1.jpg


trailer front 2.jpg


On top of this plate steel I will put a locking box and a mount for a propane tank. Making some great progress as I move around the exterior.

More to come.
 
I have "finished" the exterior body work so. The rear tail gate is pretty rough so I did not spend a lot of time on it, mostly just patched the bullet holes, rust holes but left the dents alone for the most part.
Thought I would put calf behind Moose and see how they look together:

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Next is to complete the wiring for the lights and then begin working on the interior. Got to spend some time on Moose too.
 
Topper:

I completed the electrical wiring a few weeks ago so that the taillights are connected into the trailer wire pigtail. Very straight forward. Now its time to work on mounting the OEM top to the trailer. I had not realized that the top is smaller than the body. About 4" narrower. I guess that makes sense, but I was not expecting it as I was lining it up. I knew I would have to shorten it and committed to that but now having to widen it 4 inches is a bit much. I think any other type of retro-fit would look goofy. I was already reluctant to cut up a good condition 55 roof. Decisions decisions... I'll probably spend too many hours just staring at it in the garage figuring out what to do. But always willing to take suggestions:

top ionstall 2.jpg


top install.jpeg
 
Build an English Wheel and roll your own roof panel?

Probably easier to make a fiberglass and bondo mold and pop out a laminated roof section.
 
How does a 40 Series cap measure out…closer?
 
How does a 40 Series cap measure out…closer?

That is an interesting idea. I'm not sure what the difference is. But now I am curious. The width of the 55 top is 58" from gutter eges.
 
40 Series top is 64” wide at the rear and 57.25” at the front. Total length is 82”.

Taper starts where the rear edge of the front doors meet the leading edge of the hardtop side panels. Not sure on that measurement.
 
The 40 top being that much wider is surprising. Although the amount of taper would make this trailer top a little awkward. Thanks for the dimensions though.
 
I was eyeing the roof panels on the current USPS delivery trucks for a while when building my trailer lid…
Has to be yard of wrecked rigs somewhere.

Also found myself looking a camper shell dimensions and pictures on Craigslist.
 
I was eyeing the roof panels on the current USPS delivery trucks for a while when building my trailer lid…
Has to be yard of wrecked rigs somewhere.

Also found myself looking a camper shell dimensions and pictures on Craigslist.

USPS trucks... Now I need to try to measure my mail lady's truck when she drives by. Got to be quick though, she doesn't do unscheduled stops even if there are trash cans in the way, she just knocks them over and keeps going. And you are right, there has to be a large USPS truck junk yard with the way they drive and constantly gunning the engine.

I am putting the trailer aside for a bit and back to working on the 55. Whenever I stop forward progress on a project I start getting crazy ideas about selling them. Not sure if anyone else can relate.
 
USPS trucks... Now I need to try to measure my mail lady's truck when she drives by. Got to be quick though, she doesn't do unscheduled stops even if there are trash cans in the way, she just knocks them over and keeps going. And you are right, there has to be a large USPS truck junk yard with the way they drive and constantly gunning the engine.

I am putting the trailer aside for a bit and back to working on the 55. Whenever I stop forward progress on a project I start getting crazy ideas about selling them. Not sure if anyone else can relate.
Lol!
I’ve always been curious about the USPS yearly budget for starter replacements…
 
Made some progress and have a few updates:

Water tank: I got a 7 gallon RV water tank that fit perfectly on the floor board at the front of the trailer without having to cut into the metal. Added a water fill port on the driver side of the trailer as well. The tank will be connected to a pump that I am installing on the frame rail.

Tongue tool box: I added a locking tool box on the tongue area. Inside I installed a battery and got a piece of 1/2 thick abs sheet and put in a battery cut off switch and fuse box. I ran wiring to inside of the trailer to install an aux power and USB ports. Next will be to build a switch panel that will control the water pump, the fuel transfer pump and exterior lights.

And the pictures:
Water port:
fill port.jpg


Tank:
water tank.jpg


Tool box/ power station:
tool box.jpg
 
What seems like small updates took a lot of work to get to this point. First was finishing up (minus some small adjustments, securing wiring and cleaning the dust out) the toolbox. I have the switch panel wired up that controls the water pump, the fuel transfer pump and lights inside the toolbox all of which are already installed as well. With one switch to be used for something else down the road:

tool box finished.jpg


I also shortened the OEM top to be the needed length of the trailer. Lots of measuring, welding and grinding. Have some filler on to make sure it is smooth. Next will be the endless hours of sanding on the top for primer. Also need to install the hinges and gas struts.

top shortened.jpg


Progress but much yet to be done...
 

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