Liking your new bumper! You have a great looking pair of cruisers.
Builds Wyoming HE Build (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter residualboulders
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
- Thread starter
- #43
Wired up some ARB Solis Lights. Debated between these and the Baja Designs LP9. I might change at some point, but these are more affordable and put out tons of light. I opted for both flood because I live in the boonies with lots of wildlife and wanted a really wide pattern so I can see the deer hopping fences to cross the road. They work great.
I don't like tapping into stock wiring harnesses if there is another option, so I purchased a headlight jumper from Australia which made the install pretty simple. The jumper sends power to the spots when my high beams are on. I need to figure out how to interrupt that power with my switchpro or something so I have to option to turn them off all together.
Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series Piggy Back Adaptor
The STEDI Piggy Back Adapter to fit the Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series (2016+) with factory LED Headlight ONLY. Plug and play install. View piggy back adaptor now.
www.stedi.com.au
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #44
200 Series Landcruiser Lean
This is a bit long, but I wanted to list everything I tried in one place. Hopefully someone else won't have to try and figure this out on their 200 for several months before finding the fix.
I have had a lean on my FJ40 since I bought it 20 years ago. It has driven me nuts. I have tried shims, swapping springs side to side and various other things to fix that lean to no avail. I finally had some custom springs built last fall that eliminated the lean. I was so happy it was fixed after all those years. In the meantime I bought and lifted my 55. It was fine until I lifted it, then it also had a lean. I finally figured that one out and fixed it last year too. My 60 had no lean after lift so I was stoked. Stupid little thing on an old vehicle I know, but it annoyed me. So at the end of last year all 3 of my cruisers sat level. I was pleased.
I begin with this so you understand my frustration when I picked up my brand new 200 after the Toyota Dealer installed my BP51 lift and it leaned variably from 1 - 1 1/2" to the drivers side.
I called @cruiseroutfit (sold me the lift) and they told me the KDSS sometimes gets out of whack when you install a lift so just drive it and it will level itself out in a few weeks. I drove it for a month or so and no change. I should clarify, I'm not faulting Cruiser Outfitters at all for telling me this when it didn't work for me. Sounds like this is the solution for some people, just not me. I just tagged them so they can see the rest of this and have more info to maybe help a customer in the future.
I called ARB USA and explained the situation, again they told me to be patient and drive it and the KDSS would level itself out. I drove it two more months, no change.
I researched it some more and ARB/Cruiser Outfitters were correct that the KDSS often just needs to level itself out. Mine just wasn't for some reason.
While out of town in another state I needed my first service so I stopped in at the local Toyota dealer to have that done and asked for the most knowledgable technician that understood KDSS. I asked him if the KDSS could be reset or something to level itself out and resolve my lean issue. He told me the KDSS is a sealed system and opening the valves would do absolutely nothing to help the lean. He also told me that because I lifted my cruiser I will have premature failure of most of my suspension components.
Called ARB again and they sent me an internal document ( i have attached) sent to installers explaining how the KDSS works and that KDSS valves must be open when installing the lift and then closed after the truck is back on level ground. I called the Toyota dealer that installed my lift. They assured me the valves were open before starting on the lift and closed after.
The document ARB sent me indicated that there is a taller spring for the drivers side. I asked ARB if that should be reversed since our drivers side is opposite Australia, they told me the taller spring should be on the side of the fuel tanks (our passenger side - aussie drivers side). The springs come with a tag on them labeling A (taller) and B. I crawled under my truck and determined that A was installed fuel tank side as ARB confirmed they should be. I had read that other 200 series owners had taller A spring on passenger side with no lean so I didn't pursue this further.
I read on the the interwebs that some used a shim/spacer to fix the lean. I had some spring spacers I bought from Cruiser Outfitters in the event I wanted more rake after lift install. However, I just didn't think that installing one of those on the low side was the solution. I read this was the solution for some. It was a last resort for me so they remain in my shop.
I read on the interwebs that some guys opened their KDSS, let the truck sit on level ground overnight, closed the valves and the lean was gone. I tried this several times, no luck. (some did have luck so you might try this)
I went back to the interwebs and read that some guys opened their KDSS and drove the cruiser around for a few days (mild driving) and then closed the valves and had success leveling the truck. I tried this a couple of times, no luck. (some did have luck so you might try this)
In the meantime my ARB bumper came and while installing it I noticed that the wiring needed to be done opposite the instructions because our drivers side is LH while Australia where ARB is manufactured has RHD vehicles. That raised the question again in my mind if my springs should be swapped. I called ARB to question them on that again. I spoke to Don - despite what they told me previously, he confirmed I need to swap them to have the taller A spring on the US drivers side.
I swapped the rear A spring to US drivers side, B on passenger and my truck sits perfectly level side to side now. Wish I would have known that 4 months ago.
EDIT NOV 23: Coincidentally @Eric Sarjeant at Ed Martin Toyota uploaded this video just a few days after I made this post. I figured I'd add it here for the benefit of someone else. Since the KDSS is supposedly a self leveling sealed system, this seems like a temporary fix to me. However, Ed Martin Toyota has worked on far more 200s than I have so I would wager my authority on the subject is considerably less reliable.
This is a bit long, but I wanted to list everything I tried in one place. Hopefully someone else won't have to try and figure this out on their 200 for several months before finding the fix.
I have had a lean on my FJ40 since I bought it 20 years ago. It has driven me nuts. I have tried shims, swapping springs side to side and various other things to fix that lean to no avail. I finally had some custom springs built last fall that eliminated the lean. I was so happy it was fixed after all those years. In the meantime I bought and lifted my 55. It was fine until I lifted it, then it also had a lean. I finally figured that one out and fixed it last year too. My 60 had no lean after lift so I was stoked. Stupid little thing on an old vehicle I know, but it annoyed me. So at the end of last year all 3 of my cruisers sat level. I was pleased.
I begin with this so you understand my frustration when I picked up my brand new 200 after the Toyota Dealer installed my BP51 lift and it leaned variably from 1 - 1 1/2" to the drivers side.
I called @cruiseroutfit (sold me the lift) and they told me the KDSS sometimes gets out of whack when you install a lift so just drive it and it will level itself out in a few weeks. I drove it for a month or so and no change. I should clarify, I'm not faulting Cruiser Outfitters at all for telling me this when it didn't work for me. Sounds like this is the solution for some people, just not me. I just tagged them so they can see the rest of this and have more info to maybe help a customer in the future.
I called ARB USA and explained the situation, again they told me to be patient and drive it and the KDSS would level itself out. I drove it two more months, no change.
I researched it some more and ARB/Cruiser Outfitters were correct that the KDSS often just needs to level itself out. Mine just wasn't for some reason.
While out of town in another state I needed my first service so I stopped in at the local Toyota dealer to have that done and asked for the most knowledgable technician that understood KDSS. I asked him if the KDSS could be reset or something to level itself out and resolve my lean issue. He told me the KDSS is a sealed system and opening the valves would do absolutely nothing to help the lean. He also told me that because I lifted my cruiser I will have premature failure of most of my suspension components.
Called ARB again and they sent me an internal document ( i have attached) sent to installers explaining how the KDSS works and that KDSS valves must be open when installing the lift and then closed after the truck is back on level ground. I called the Toyota dealer that installed my lift. They assured me the valves were open before starting on the lift and closed after.
The document ARB sent me indicated that there is a taller spring for the drivers side. I asked ARB if that should be reversed since our drivers side is opposite Australia, they told me the taller spring should be on the side of the fuel tanks (our passenger side - aussie drivers side). The springs come with a tag on them labeling A (taller) and B. I crawled under my truck and determined that A was installed fuel tank side as ARB confirmed they should be. I had read that other 200 series owners had taller A spring on passenger side with no lean so I didn't pursue this further.
I read on the the interwebs that some used a shim/spacer to fix the lean. I had some spring spacers I bought from Cruiser Outfitters in the event I wanted more rake after lift install. However, I just didn't think that installing one of those on the low side was the solution. I read this was the solution for some. It was a last resort for me so they remain in my shop.
I read on the interwebs that some guys opened their KDSS, let the truck sit on level ground overnight, closed the valves and the lean was gone. I tried this several times, no luck. (some did have luck so you might try this)
I went back to the interwebs and read that some guys opened their KDSS and drove the cruiser around for a few days (mild driving) and then closed the valves and had success leveling the truck. I tried this a couple of times, no luck. (some did have luck so you might try this)
In the meantime my ARB bumper came and while installing it I noticed that the wiring needed to be done opposite the instructions because our drivers side is LH while Australia where ARB is manufactured has RHD vehicles. That raised the question again in my mind if my springs should be swapped. I called ARB to question them on that again. I spoke to Don - despite what they told me previously, he confirmed I need to swap them to have the taller A spring on the US drivers side.
I swapped the rear A spring to US drivers side, B on passenger and my truck sits perfectly level side to side now. Wish I would have known that 4 months ago.
EDIT NOV 23: Coincidentally @Eric Sarjeant at Ed Martin Toyota uploaded this video just a few days after I made this post. I figured I'd add it here for the benefit of someone else. Since the KDSS is supposedly a self leveling sealed system, this seems like a temporary fix to me. However, Ed Martin Toyota has worked on far more 200s than I have so I would wager my authority on the subject is considerably less reliable.
Last edited:
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Use the red output wire of that harness as a trigger wire on your switchpros. That's what I'm going to do. That Stedi harness is great.View attachment 2833338
Wired up some ARB Solis Lights. Debated between these and the Baja Designs LP9. I might change at some point, but these are more affordable and put out tons of light. I opted for both flood because I live in the boonies with lots of wildlife and wanted a really wide pattern so I can see the deer hopping fences to cross the road. They work great.
I don't like tapping into stock wiring harnesses if there is another option, so I purchased a headlight jumper from Australia which made the install pretty simple. The jumper sends power to the spots when my high beams are on. I need to figure out how to interrupt that power with my switchpro or something so I have to option to turn them off all together.
View attachment 2833367
Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series Piggy Back Adaptor
The STEDI Piggy Back Adapter to fit the Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series (2016+) with factory LED Headlight ONLY. Plug and play install. View piggy back adaptor now.
- Thread starter
- #46
Red wire of the Stedi Harness I'm guessing? Great, thanks for that info. I haven't gotten around to installing my switchpro yet, but it's on my short list.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Yes, the red wire coming out of the Stedi plug in harness could be used as an input trigger wire to the Switchpros.
You can then program any of the Switchpros buttons to pay attention to that trigger.
For example, I used the 12v+ signal from the reverse wire to turn on a set of rear facing auxiliary lights when I shifted into reverse - I could still override it to turn it on or off from the Switchpros switch panel buttons (or the bluetooth app on my phone).
I believe there are two trigger wires - the pink wire on pin 3 is trigger 1 and the white wire on pin 4 is trigger 2.
- Thread starter
- #48
Cool thanks. I need to get working on that next. Have the switch pro and the Slee mount for it.
Nice build! I enjoyed reading it up to this point. Any updates to share? I'm looking into the ARB bumper and BP-51 myself.
- Thread starter
- #50
Yeah I forgot about this thread. Since I have installed 24 gallon aux tank, slee rear bumper, arb baserack and some other odds and ends. I guess I should update the thread.
Haha well now you're just being a tease. I'd also love to know how it worked out with the Switchpro and lighting.
- Thread starter
- #52
Well shoot. The switchpro is the one mod still sitting on my workbench, ha ha. Mainly because I want to put it on the Slee mount where I currently have my dual compressor. I plan to add a second air chuck on the rear bumper. Soon I am going to pull that compressor and re-route everything and install the switchpro.
As far as the lighting goes though, I installed the ARB solis lights as noted previously on this thread. They really put out some light. However, I get sporadic reliability with them. Ocassionally one just won't work or I have had some blown fuses and they don't work at all. My brother has the same lights on his 70 series and he's had the same issues. I called ARB and they tell me it's down to my wiring. I disagree. I noticed they have since come out with a wiring harness that does not use that dumb dimmer switch.
I may move these lights to my 40 and try some baja designs on the 200. We'll see.
- Thread starter
- #53
After quite a few issues with the Naviplus unit, I tore the dash apart again and replaced the Naviplus with an EC Offroad unit. I also installed a 12volt Solutions remote start which was super easy.
The EC offroad is a lot more reliable. The only issue really is when you remote start the vehicle it can't find your phone. So you have to manually pair. Otherwise it pairs up every time and starts playing music where you left off. I should say I do not use any of the toyota navigation, sirius, am/fm etc. I'm nearly always on carplay with spotify for music and google maps for navigation - for that it works great.
The EC offroad is a lot more reliable. The only issue really is when you remote start the vehicle it can't find your phone. So you have to manually pair. Otherwise it pairs up every time and starts playing music where you left off. I should say I do not use any of the toyota navigation, sirius, am/fm etc. I'm nearly always on carplay with spotify for music and google maps for navigation - for that it works great.
- Thread starter
- #54
I posted this on another thread but it should maybe be on this build thread. I made some custom brackets for a platform in the cargo area. I bought some 1 1/2" wide steel, bent it as shown below and welded a nut to the back. 4 of these attach to the cargo Tie down points. So far they have held up great.
Pre-drilled holes with T-Nuts on the back side allow me to add and remove a fridge slide easily. My idea was to allow me to put in a fridge and drawer slide easily when I want it, then revert to open cargo area for daily driving duties. I used the cargo mat as a template on some 3/4" cabinet grade plywood, fine tuned it and coated it in black bedliner for durability. So far it is holding up really well. Loosen 4 bolts and it's out.
Pre-drilled holes with T-Nuts on the back side allow me to add and remove a fridge slide easily. My idea was to allow me to put in a fridge and drawer slide easily when I want it, then revert to open cargo area for daily driving duties. I used the cargo mat as a template on some 3/4" cabinet grade plywood, fine tuned it and coated it in black bedliner for durability. So far it is holding up really well. Loosen 4 bolts and it's out.
- Thread starter
- #55
Bought a DFG offroad fridge slide for my Dometic 75 Fridge Freezer. Honestly the fridge is unnecessarily large for most trips. But it is super handy for Costco runs we do on occasion since we live 2 hrs from the nearest Costco. The DFG slide is pretty nice, but it does have some play in the slides so the fridge rattles unless I wedge something in between the drawer and the base of the slide.
Has anyone used a fridge slide that does not rattle? I may replace the dometic with a smaller fridge at some point, so I'd be curious if there is a rattle free solution out there.
Has anyone used a fridge slide that does not rattle? I may replace the dometic with a smaller fridge at some point, so I'd be curious if there is a rattle free solution out there.
- Thread starter
- #56
Bought a full length ARB baserack. I was going to install the rack light bar as well but it was not available at the time. The baserack was easy to install. It is a stout rack being all welded. I think it looks great and its fairly low profile. It creates a little wind noise, but not terrible. Unfortunately, the wind fairing dumps right into the sunroof so it is not great if you want to use your sunroof. I'm not sure why it is designed that way. I really like the function of the rack so I have not removed it. But I do wish I could use my sunroof without it sounding like a jet is taking off overhead. Tradeoffs.
- Thread starter
- #57
Ironman had released their new clamshell tent and had a really good price on it with awning for free. Took a while to fine tune where the tent needs to sit on the rack and awning mounts to the tent so all would clear the rear hatch, etc. It's pretty decent quality for the price. One day I may upgrade to the alucab or something different and lighter weight.
I have the same fridge slide, i used the factory 3rd row seat holes to mount it. I have the HE rubber mat underneath the slide and no rattles. The slide lives in my vehicle full time but the fridge does not. No rattles with or without the fridge installed. Try contacting DFG if they have run into this issue, my slide has been trouble-free.
- Thread starter
- #59
Well that's good to know. Mine works flawlessly, just rattles. I'll check with DFG.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #60
White rim was pretty amazing. My brother is into Rovers. Before our trip he spent a ton of time prepping his Discovery for this trip. It's very modded out. He joked that the reason he has 5 Rovers is because they're going to break down so he needs a backup. After all of his mods and prep on his Discovery, it broke down the morning of our trip. So he took his stock LR3. I have to admit, his LR3 is pretty nice - but I prefer my LC.
