Good call, if you haven't already I'd ditch the factory breather valve and install a new breather hose that goes way up above any possible water level.
wtf why is my gear oil white?
- Thread starter rc51kid
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Good call, if you haven't already I'd ditch the factory breather valve and install a new breather hose that goes way up above any possible water level.
Changed my front and rear gear oil tonight. Change it every year. Front was its nomal a little gray with some moly grease in it. I have reasonably fresh birfields seals in the front. The grease always looks good but for some reason the front oil is always kind of gray in front. Never any metal shavings on the plugs.
But tonight the rear drained out a milky white. I will upload a picture in a min when I get inside. It was not separated into layers like I think it would with water in it. Also no deep water crossings that I remember and I have extended brethers. Also no metal again on the drain plugs. Any ideas
I see U mentioned No deep water crossings ,
But ,
have u done any mild water travel like a stream or pond ?
have U changed this rear axle oil before inn the past or is it your first time while U owned the vehical
Past Vehical History is really then Key here , In addition to any current seal leaks like the pinion & or the outer axle seals
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
For that much water, it seems likely the breather came detached from the axle. I can't imagine that much water from a drippy seal. Can you see the ring gear to know how much it's been damaged?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I'd make a new breather with 1/4 fuel hose. Run it forward and up to the top of the firewall. Top with 1/4 disposable type filter, the lawn mower ones work perfectly.
- Thread starter
- #26
Yes to all.
I have traveled in some mild water crossing but probably over the hubs.
I change the oils every year at least. It has not looked like this in the past.
a few years ago I did the rear outer axel seals when I did rotors and wheel bearings.
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If it has the stock breather caps they can cause a vacuum that can suck water in anytime the axle is in water. Best to have free flowing breathers, but even then good idea to remove the fill plug and check fluid after trips that include fording. We use old school VW fuel filters, but whatever is handy and inexpensive.
- Thread starter
- #28
Where are you bringing this line inside the truck from underneath the truck?
is there a check valve on the VW fuel filter u are using inside the fuel door compartment ?
im assuming its a fuel filter
im assuming its a fuel filter
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Through the grommet with the sunroof drain.
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Free flowing. We get them for $1 at the local WV parts store, make great breather filters.
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IAP 131261275A
Go the cheap way. $30 is all you need to fix it.
Just as an FYI, oil lip seals are made to keep oil in, NOT TO KEEP WATER OUT if you are submerging your axles, transmission, transfer case, or engine. I use to work on U.S. Military trucks that were equipped with purpose built fording equipment, that enable them to ford both shallow, and deep water. By shallow water I'm talking about water up to 18 inch's deep, and deep water over 6 feet deep.
They used air from their air brake system, along with low pressure regulators to pressurizer the engine crank case, transmission, transfer case, and axles with 1 to 3 PSI of air pressure. The purpose of this low pressure air was meant to counter act the outside water pressure trying to slip pass the oil seals, by pressuring those components. Even with this air system in place we still had to perform field maintenance (draining and replacing all fluids) after each fording due to water still getting pass some of the seals.
If you look at the design of an oil seal you'll notice that they have a lip that rides on a shaft that faces inward, towards the source of the oil. That lip is reinforced with a garter spring that keeps the seals lip under constant pressure, and in contact with the shaft. Since that lip faces in it strips oil off of the shaft keeping it from escaping. But due to the seals shape, and the small amount of pressure provided by the garter spring, it's not tight enough of a seal to keep water from making it's way past the seal if you submerge it. If you make it a regular practice to drive in water over 6 inch's deep, one of the best things you can do is make it a point to change your fluids when you return to home.
They used air from their air brake system, along with low pressure regulators to pressurizer the engine crank case, transmission, transfer case, and axles with 1 to 3 PSI of air pressure. The purpose of this low pressure air was meant to counter act the outside water pressure trying to slip pass the oil seals, by pressuring those components. Even with this air system in place we still had to perform field maintenance (draining and replacing all fluids) after each fording due to water still getting pass some of the seals.
If you look at the design of an oil seal you'll notice that they have a lip that rides on a shaft that faces inward, towards the source of the oil. That lip is reinforced with a garter spring that keeps the seals lip under constant pressure, and in contact with the shaft. Since that lip faces in it strips oil off of the shaft keeping it from escaping. But due to the seals shape, and the small amount of pressure provided by the garter spring, it's not tight enough of a seal to keep water from making it's way past the seal if you submerge it. If you make it a regular practice to drive in water over 6 inch's deep, one of the best things you can do is make it a point to change your fluids when you return to home.
- Thread starter
- #35
Good point. I regularly change all my fluids every spring. But i could step up to changing the gear oil after being in the water. or at least pop the fill plug and check it.
I dont tend to do what i call "deep water". But from May -Oct i am out in Wyoming and spend so much time on forestry roads and stuff that as things change with the snow melt i do regularly get in water a foot or 2 deep, maybe deeper with out really thinking about it.
