WTF! Elocker housing failed? (1 Viewer)

[rtiqulatendisco]

SO, I am running a front high pinion elocker with 4.56 gears in my rover. I was in MOAB and something blew. Pulled everything out and 5 teeth were gone on the ring gear, a tiny chip missing from the pinion, and the carrier bearing side adjuster nut blew out of the housing and stripped the housing threads.

Has this ever happened to anyone? Any before you blame me for setting it up wrong, INCHWORM set it up.

Anyone got a housing for me?

 

[Tools R Us]

Have you talked to, sent pix to Inchworm?

 

[rtiqulatendisco]

Yes, Jim said it looked like I was heavy on the gas and going in reverse. I was actually going forward on a hill climb. I just can't find anyone that has ever seen this happen.

The entire housing has less that 10k miles on it.

 

[GXO]

Almost looks like the adjuster nut was the first thing to go, leading to the rest of the carnage...

 

[SOCALFJ]

Yikes! What size tire you runnin'?

 

[Tools R Us]

Yes, Jim said it looked like I was heavy on the gas and going in reverse. I was actually going forward on a hill climb. I just can't find anyone that has ever seen this happen.

The entire housing has less that 10k miles on it.

Is the housing where the adjuster "nut" goes stripped, like it was forced out, or are the threads somewhat good like it came loose?

 

[little_joe]

I'd strongly recommend going back to all Rover components.





<Sorry to hear it blew on you. Have you isolated yet what happened, perhaps a bearing cap or adjuster nut started working loose?>

 

[Buckru]

Not trying to hi jack the thread but, for those of us who have never been into the differential can someone point out, in the pictures, the parts being discussed so we can follow along? Learnig with visual aid is a great thing.

Buck

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Elockers

 

[cruiserdan]

Elockers

Hey,

Go sew somebody up..............

 

[rtiqulatendisco]

Just running 37 MTR's


The threads in the housing are stripped which is why I have to replace the whole thing! The transferance of power through the pinion, to the ring gear, broke the ring gear and blew the adjuster nut out. That's what I am being told happened.

 

[IdahoDoug]

All the threads on the housing are stripped right out? Or the last thread or two are?

DougM

 

[sleeoffroad]

I have broken my fair share of front diffs in both 80's and 100's (2 each) and I have never had the adjuster nut back out like that. My money is on the adjuster nut coming loose and then causing the pinion/ring gear to break.

 

[IBCRUSN]

Time for an ARB.

Lots of surface corrosion for only 10k on it. Unless you mean 10k since the gear swap.

What brand gears?

Take some more pics of the carrier, locker assy and ring gear (rotate the ring gear for more shots of the ring gear and locker housing). If you have pic hosting ability make the shots 800x600 to show better detail.

I don't recall the adjuster lock tabs having different hardware for each side. Certainly not the cause but I just noticed it.

 

[Tools R Us]

I have broken my fair share of front diffs in both 80's and 100's (2 each) and I have never had the adjuster nut back out like that. My money is on the adjuster nut coming loose and then causing the pinion/ring gear to break.

Agree, have seen plenty of 8" diff carnage and have never seen a adjuster nut pushed out.

Elockers

Time for an ARB.

...

So what you guys are saying is that the pressed sheet metal adjuster nuts in a non locker diff would holdup better than the machined steel ones?

 

[Tools R Us]

Not trying to hi jack the thread but, for those of us who have never been into the differential can someone point out, in the pictures, the parts being discussed so we can follow along? Learnig with visual aid is a great thing.

Buck

Here is a couple of links on regearing.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/landcruiser_elocker/

http://www.gearinstalls.com/index.htm

 

[Tools R Us]

Just running 37 MTR's


The threads in the housing are stripped which is why I have to replace the whole thing! The transferance of power through the pinion, to the ring gear, broke the ring gear and blew the adjuster nut out. That's what I am being told happened.

I would like to see a pic of the threads, can you pull the cap and shoot a pic? If you remove the cap, remove the bolts with a hand wrench and check how tight they are, they should take a bunch of effort, IIRC 75 ft-lb?

If the nut was pushed out I would expect to see the nut threads rounded over and some of the threads from the housing in them, don't see that in the pic posted?

Also where is the other side adjusted to, is the nut flush flush with the cap, recessed, sticking out?

 

[IBCRUSN]

So what you guys are saying is that the pressed sheet metal adjuster nuts in a non locker diff would holdup better than the machined steel ones?

Nope, I'm not saying that at all. This issue appears to be more about installation/setup than the strength of the unit.

Given the opportunity such as this situation to replace the elocker with an ARB unit I would take it. The elocker is slow to both engage and disengage which is a PIA on the trail. Point being if you have to spend $$$ to fix/replace go with what you want which in my case would be the ARB but to each is own.

 

[IBCRUSN]

As Tools mentioned take a torque wrench and remove the caps. Ideally if you have access to a dial torque wrench use one instead of a click type. I too would be interested in what the caps were torqued to because that will definitely have an effect.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

Adjuster

Either:
the adjuster was partially stripped before
the bearing cap was mix-matched w/ another diff
the adjuster lock was loose or not bent in
the cap bolts were loose, or loosened up.
or
Really bad luck;p

I have broken my fair share of front diffs in both 80's and 100's (2 each) and I have never had the adjuster nut back out like that. My money is on the adjuster nut coming loose and then causing the pinion/ring gear to break.