WS ATF Flush Procedure (1 Viewer)

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This seems like a great solution for a novice like me. Any expert opinion on why this is option may not be so ideal?
And I can't type too :). This should read - This seems like a great solution for a novice like me. Any expert opinion on why this option may not be so ideal?
 
Leave the pan on or proceed with caution. There very little benefit to pulling it- filters are normal clean and little to no debris in magnets. Sometimes the bolts that hold the pan can break, or strip so be careful.


I think people here have posted they’ve had good luck with max life atf but most here including myself would suggest Toyota WS or AISIN WS (lower cost same stuff)

I wouldn’t use any additives, cleaners, only fresh trans fluid.

Be sure you don’t run the trans dry with flush and drain from return hose method- otherwise it introduces air bubbles and more work.

Get the fluid level check right by the book (FSM) and you’ll be good to go. Edit: check temp has been amended from FSM print date- new check range is 97-115F
Sorry, two extra questions:
1. If we assume that the trans filter inside has never been replaced, will it get some kind of clog during these 16 years? most important, will this old filter impact the trans performance? I just hesitated if change it or not (I really don't want to), because my filters and gasket just come in this week...

After watched some videos, I don't think this is a real question, it is more about personal choice, both the drop pan and not drop pan arguments have a very strong reason...

2. will an "infrared Thermometer gun" point to the pan working the same as shorting the ODBII? I am a little dread to short the ODBII...

Thanks.
 
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Great write-up.
To make it a bit easier:
- There is no need to stop the engine to top up the level if nothing comes out of the overflow. Then it's easy to see when it's enough. Just don't put the filler more than 1/2" into the fill hole.
- Less work if you have a pump of some kind. Either an electric oil changer, or a pressurized container (like a 2 gallon garden sprayer without the spray nozzle), or a proper workshop oil pump.

I have a weired issue with the transmission fluid change this afternoon. I did not do a flush, I just dump and refill.

When the car is cool I got it refilled and the ATF comes out from the overflow. I tight the overflow and get the car to the correct temperature, I did not use the clip short the ODBII, but I used Techstream to monitor the temperature.

But I got nothing from the overflow when the temperature reached and keep the car engine on. Then I turn off the car, and about 20 seconds later there is quite a bit ATF comes from overflow...

I did this a couple of times, basically, if the car is on there will be no ATF from overflow...

What is this mean? what to do next?
 
If at proper check temp (97-115F) if fluid is not coming out while engine running that means add more fluid-

Again-engine must be running when you remove the check plug to perform level check- otherwise you loose all the fluid in the pan.

Did you happen to catch what came out and measure how much?? Otherwise you’ll have to start over- refill and perform level check.

Follow FSM procedure and you shouldn’t have any problems
 
If at proper check temp (97-115F) if fluid is not coming out while engine running that means add more fluid-

Again-engine must be running when you remove the check plug to perform level check- otherwise you loose all the fluid in the pan.

Did you happen to catch what came out and measure how much?? Otherwise you’ll have to start over- refill and perform level check.

Follow FSM procedure and you shouldn’t have any problems
how about I just refill it and remove the overflow at same time when engine running?
 
how about I just refill it and remove the overflow at same time when engine running?

You can have both the fill plug and overflow plug out at the same time, even filling while you watch for it to overflow.

When the engine is running, the transmission pump is dispersing fluid throughout the transmission and torque converter. When the engine is off, a certain amount will drain back into the pan. Just to clarify, you will not lose all the fluid from the pan with the overflow plug out because a tube sticks up inside the pan to the correct level (when running and at temperature).

Using Techstream to monitor temperature is great, but the first part of the procedure puts the computer in "fluid check" mode. It is supposed to stabilize the temperature so you have more time to perform the level check. You should also be able to do that with Techstream.
 
You can have both the fill plug and overflow plug out at the same time, even filling while you watch for it to overflow.

When the engine is running, the transmission pump is dispersing fluid throughout the transmission and torque converter. When the engine is off, a certain amount will drain back into the pan. Just to clarify, you will not lose all the fluid from the pan with the overflow plug out because a tube sticks up inside the pan to the correct level (when running and at temperature).

Using Techstream to monitor temperature is great, but the first part of the procedure puts the computer in "fluid check" mode. It is supposed to stabilize the temperature so you have more time to perform the level check. You should also be able to do that with Techstream.
Thanks for the reply, I finally figured what happens to me, I did disordered ATF change steps. I opened the overflow and refill the ATF when the engine is off, then I put back the overflow bolt when I see the ATF come out from there. Then I start the car warming up and check the level. I did this twice, the first time I let the car running about 10 mins, the second time should be less than 5 mins, then I don't see anything come out from overflow so I knew something wrong then I stop to do this and come to here ask you guys...

Now I only have one question, in this total of 15 mins, did I damage my trans?
Just as you said, there is still some ATF inside the pan, but I definitely running it very low in that 15 mins....
(The car did not move, but I do shift to N and D during the first 10 mins warm-up with holding firmly brake pad. and I am sure it is not over heat, I see the temp is under 115F)
 
Thanks for the reply, I finally figured what happens to me, I did disordered ATF change steps. I opened the overflow and refill the ATF when the engine is off, then I put back the overflow bolt when I see the ATF come out from there. Then I start the car warming up and check the level. I did this twice, the first time I let the car running about 10 mins, the second time should be less than 5 mins, then I don't see anything come out from overflow so I knew something wrong then I stop to do this and come to here ask you guys...

Now I only have one question, in this total of 15 mins, did I damage my trans?
Just as you said, there is still some ATF inside the pan, but I definitely running it very low in that 15 mins....
(The car did not move, but I do shift to N and D during the first 10 mins warm-up with holding firmly brake pad. and I am sure it is not over heat, I see the temp is under 115F)

I doubt you have done any damage to the transmission by doing this. If any air got mixed in with the fluid, it could cause stuttering when the torque converter locks up or a slipping feeling during shifts, but should bubble out if left for awhile.
 
Finally, get this busy week through...
This Monday, I did one more ATF change again due to my mistaken procedure last weekend.
I took off the trans pan drain bolt and dump the ATF again, then I put back the drain bolt and tighten the overflow. I did not measure how much come out and I just put 3.5 qt new ATF into it directly, then I start the engine and use TechStream to monitor the temp, once it reached 105F (so 105 to 115 will give me enough time to do the overflow check) I start to loosen overflow, there was about 0.5 qt ATF came out from the overflow then it became trickle flow finally.
I drive my LC the whole week, there is no issue at all, I can feel the ATF change (twice) effect, it is much more smooth than before.

My mistaken procedure scared my crap out for sure last week, but our solid LC100 really tolerance the careless man like me...

Thanks for you guys give me so much help!
 
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I did not measure how much come out and I just put 3.5 qt new ATF into it directly, then I put back the drain bolt and tighten the overflow, then I start the engine and use TechStream to monitor the temp, once it reached 105F (so 105 to 115 will give me enough time to do the overflow check) I start to loosen overflow, there was about 0.5 qt ATF came out from the overflow then it became trickle flow finally.

Interesting that you were able to put in 3.5 qts with no leak prior to installing drain and overflow bolts.
 
Interesting that you were able to put in 3.5 qts with no leak prior to installing drain and overflow bolts.
Sorry, I didn't understand what you said, I dump the atf and tight both of these two bolts before I refill it, so if I can not put in 3.5 then it should overflow from the refill hole because it is the only one opened at the time, But it didn't~ and I did put in 3.5qts for sure I use powerfill and have a black pen Mark on the container, if we do seriously count those leftover in the tube., i'd say at least 3.4 got in there~
 
^^^ This is not what you said earlier.

You said:
Sorry, sir, that is absolutely a mistake of organize the content, see that is why I can mess up the steps of the procedure, really glad you help me found this, I just corrected them. Thanks!
 
I'm planning on doing a full fluid exchange after having some issues recently. I've had some hesitation in downshift during passing situations, and recently on a cold engine highway on-ramp situation the transmission actually briefly slipped.

I'm thinking about adding some Lucas Transmission Fix at the end of the top up. Has anyone used that stuff? Or should I just do the fluid exchange and see if things improve without the Lucas Transmission Fix?
 
I believe this is the part number 3517830010 for washer/gasket for drain and overflow plugs.
However I am having a hard time finding the other one. Is this the the washer or gasket for fill plug 9030106196? TIA.
 
I believe this is the part number 3517830010 for washer/gasket for drain and overflow plugs.
However I am having a hard time finding the other one. Is this the the washer or gasket for fill plug 9030106196? TIA.
I don’t know, but I do recall it having an O ring, not a crush gasket like the transfer case and diffs.
 

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