And I can't type tooThis seems like a great solution for a novice like me. Any expert opinion on why this is option may not be so ideal?
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And I can't type tooThis seems like a great solution for a novice like me. Any expert opinion on why this is option may not be so ideal?
Sorry, two extra questions:Leave the pan on or proceed with caution. There very little benefit to pulling it- filters are normal clean and little to no debris in magnets. Sometimes the bolts that hold the pan can break, or strip so be careful.
I think people here have posted they’ve had good luck with max life atf but most here including myself would suggest Toyota WS or AISIN WS (lower cost same stuff)
I wouldn’t use any additives, cleaners, only fresh trans fluid.
Be sure you don’t run the trans dry with flush and drain from return hose method- otherwise it introduces air bubbles and more work.
Get the fluid level check right by the book (FSM) and you’ll be good to go. Edit: check temp has been amended from FSM print date- new check range is 97-115F
Great write-up.
To make it a bit easier:
- There is no need to stop the engine to top up the level if nothing comes out of the overflow. Then it's easy to see when it's enough. Just don't put the filler more than 1/2" into the fill hole.
- Less work if you have a pump of some kind. Either an electric oil changer, or a pressurized container (like a 2 gallon garden sprayer without the spray nozzle), or a proper workshop oil pump.
how about I just refill it and remove the overflow at same time when engine running?If at proper check temp (97-115F) if fluid is not coming out while engine running that means add more fluid-
Again-engine must be running when you remove the check plug to perform level check- otherwise you loose all the fluid in the pan.
Did you happen to catch what came out and measure how much?? Otherwise you’ll have to start over- refill and perform level check.
Follow FSM procedure and you shouldn’t have any problems
how about I just refill it and remove the overflow at same time when engine running?
Thanks for the reply, I finally figured what happens to me, I did disordered ATF change steps. I opened the overflow and refill the ATF when the engine is off, then I put back the overflow bolt when I see the ATF come out from there. Then I start the car warming up and check the level. I did this twice, the first time I let the car running about 10 mins, the second time should be less than 5 mins, then I don't see anything come out from overflow so I knew something wrong then I stop to do this and come to here ask you guys...You can have both the fill plug and overflow plug out at the same time, even filling while you watch for it to overflow.
When the engine is running, the transmission pump is dispersing fluid throughout the transmission and torque converter. When the engine is off, a certain amount will drain back into the pan. Just to clarify, you will not lose all the fluid from the pan with the overflow plug out because a tube sticks up inside the pan to the correct level (when running and at temperature).
Using Techstream to monitor temperature is great, but the first part of the procedure puts the computer in "fluid check" mode. It is supposed to stabilize the temperature so you have more time to perform the level check. You should also be able to do that with Techstream.
Thanks for the reply, I finally figured what happens to me, I did disordered ATF change steps. I opened the overflow and refill the ATF when the engine is off, then I put back the overflow bolt when I see the ATF come out from there. Then I start the car warming up and check the level. I did this twice, the first time I let the car running about 10 mins, the second time should be less than 5 mins, then I don't see anything come out from overflow so I knew something wrong then I stop to do this and come to here ask you guys...
Now I only have one question, in this total of 15 mins, did I damage my trans?
Just as you said, there is still some ATF inside the pan, but I definitely running it very low in that 15 mins....
(The car did not move, but I do shift to N and D during the first 10 mins warm-up with holding firmly brake pad. and I am sure it is not over heat, I see the temp is under 115F)
I did not measure how much come out and I just put 3.5 qt new ATF into it directly, then I put back the drain bolt and tighten the overflow, then I start the engine and use TechStream to monitor the temp, once it reached 105F (so 105 to 115 will give me enough time to do the overflow check) I start to loosen overflow, there was about 0.5 qt ATF came out from the overflow then it became trickle flow finally.
Sorry, I didn't understand what you said, I dump the atf and tight both of these two bolts before I refill it, so if I can not put in 3.5 then it should overflow from the refill hole because it is the only one opened at the time, But it didn't~ and I did put in 3.5qts for sure I use powerfill and have a black pen Mark on the container, if we do seriously count those leftover in the tube., i'd say at least 3.4 got in there~Interesting that you were able to put in 3.5 qts with no leak prior to installing drain and overflow bolts.
^^^ This is not what you said earlier.I dump the atf and tight both of these two bolts before I refill it,
I did not measure how much come out and I just put 3.5 qt new ATF into it directly, then I put back the drain bolt and tighten the overflow
Sorry, sir, that is absolutely a mistake of organize the content, see that is why I can mess up the steps of the procedure, really glad you help me found this, I just corrected them. Thanks!^^^ This is not what you said earlier.
You said:
I don’t know, but I do recall it having an O ring, not a crush gasket like the transfer case and diffs.I believe this is the part number 3517830010 for washer/gasket for drain and overflow plugs.
However I am having a hard time finding the other one. Is this the the washer or gasket for fill plug 9030106196? TIA.