Writeup: 1988 FJ62 4WD Solenoid fix for $17.77 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cmcnice,
Did you buy from your local dealer? Do you mind sharing the price? The local dealer here quoted $120... Ouch.
 
Retail price is $90.36 each for 25860-62010, ToyotaPartsDeal.com price is $63.57 plus shipping, no tax.
 
cmcnice,
Did you buy from your local dealer? Do you mind sharing the price? The local dealer here quoted $120... Ouch.

I rolled the dice and got it on ebay from a parts dealer with good reviews. Was about $50. Looked authentic in packaging etc, will find out I guess. Working well so far!
 
Great info! I purchased the toyota part and decided to use my old bracket and it was easy to take the bracket off by pinching each end of the bracket. I found the toyota part i purchased shows its made by Denso. I attached a picture. I did need to trim the electrical connector.

After installation my 4WD light did not turn off or disengage. The problem was the motor needs to produce pressure in the vac lines. After driving a few feet the light turned off. Works perfect.

8AAE7065-4618-4366-AFDC-3321AE637467.jpeg
 
So I have a question as I am currently diagnosing my four-wheel-drive problem on my 1988FJ 62.

I don't think my truck is going into four-wheel-drive when I push / click the button in by my right knee, and also my green light is not illuminating.
Hoping that it is a VSV problem that can easily be solved by replacing them. Great thread btw!

So first things first. I have been reading to test if you have 4wd, you turn the front driveshaft by hand with the button pressed down in the four-wheel-drive mode and it won't turn if you're locked into four-wheel-drive?
If I understand that correctly I want to clarify that you must have your hubs in the unlocked position while doing the above test, correct?

Secondly I tested the voltage on the two wiring harness's for the VSV and the top blue one has 13.4 V (when I press the 4wd button in, and no voltage when it is off/ out), and on the red harness I cannot get any voltage reading on at all in any 4wd configuration.

I figure that that is a problem that I can't get any voltage reading on the red VSV wiring harness?

Your help would be greatly appreciated !
 
Last edited:
Hi recruiser,
You do not need the front hubs locked to check the driveshaft locking with the tcase. The driveshaft locks when the VSV tells the vacuum diaphragm bolted on the end of your tcase to actuate.

Here's where I would start and work my way down:
1. Put eBrake on and foot on brake, put transmission into neutral. Then shift the 4WD shifter from 2H to 4Lo. Put truck back into park and check that the front driveshaft is locked. This will tell you if your tcase is working manually.

2. Take it out of 4Lo and back into 2Hi. Now we need to test the 4Hi.
-pop the 4H button bracket off and verify the 4Hi switch is connected. Test with a multimeter to verify it's getting power. If it is and the light isn't turning on then it could be a bad bulb or the sensor on your tcase could be unplugged, bad wires, or defective.

3. Now that you verified the switch is working, push it down and go check the driveshaft. If no good then we move to the VSV's on the firewall.

4. Your situation is odd. The Red VSV usually fails casuing 4WD to be engaged rather than your issue of not engaging.
-Get under the truck and visually make sure the two vacuum hoses are going into the diaphragm. If they are not then the VSV's won't be able to tell the tcase to switch via air power.

4. If the diaphragm hoses are connected then swap the hoses on the VSV's. This will test to see if the blue VSV can do the job for the red VSV.

5. If this doesn't work then try blowing on it yourself. If this doesn't work then it's factory service manual time. Donwload it on here or buy a paper copy.
 
Thank you Randy for your detailed response. I have started a new thread just posted now titled "4wd not engaging 1988 FJ62" and has some new information and a new blue vsv installed.
 
Here's the bread and butter of what we are discussing from the FSM:
Untitled1.jpg
Untitled2.jpg
Untitled3.jpg
Untitled4.jpg
 
For this direct replacement 25860-62010 for the vsv, check eBay this is the lowest price I have found $ 23.99 for genuine AISIN. It ships from California. This is the part number that fits directly into the existing wiring harness without modification.
IMG_20180529_120841012.jpg
 
Just to update everybody on my progress I bought a handheld vacuum tester put it on the metal VSV line on the firewall, pumped it up to 15 pounds, and the green four-wheel drive light illuminated! Test drove vehicle and confirmed that the four-wheel-drive was operational!!!
Next, I put the handheld vacuum pump on the other VSV metal line that leads to the diaphragm, Got in the truck, put it in reverse and the four-wheel drive light went out.

I also checked my vacuum pressure at the manifold where the VSV's are supplied with vacuum from the engine, and it pumped my gauge right up to 15 lbs.
So everything appears to be working properly except for the red vsv Switching valve. I have one ordered from ebay see my previous post about price. I will repost if a new VSV doesn't fix my problem.
Thank you to everyone who contributed to helping me diagnose and solve my problem.
IMG_20180529_100856042.jpg
IMG_20180529_100837302.jpg
 
Last edited:
Follow up to complete my posts:
My $23.99 part from eBay came today and it did say AISIN on it, looked good and new, popped it in and now I have working 4WD! This part also had the correct tab on it already, so not only did the harness snap in perfectly, I didn't have to grind any of the tab off.

Big thanks to everyone who was so quick to help me out on this problem and share their expertise so unselfishly.
 
Last edited:
Here's why my 4wd wouldn't disengage, the lines where they connect to the frame were rusted. I cut them off and added some spare hose that I has kickn around, everything now works as it should.


aZZiyguCrWDNtiFfdAh7Z_UoDHPbI6DKQ-mJ9GmAQL7Ou1kiYSTXLJS2JZ852cbMPmwkBc3WA9QleXMZ0iH6dAROlAWY1pg4YconAho-4DH3Oxhoces0GIO-jtZ-2aTyOY1whmMxw2qlUp8_foTMdTIYhCvzQXmIteN-gonDrLaW53rjAQn3-l0D307ERpmoWbjwBRQaZBMaHrYzU9lt4rHSHIXMiG-hclO0GZ2-Mub268YHLD8Cu74yolCbo56cKd-7tQdzHFnAE_9pWRBVmt_lz0Cj78xEaLjNQRdSN78KOnVQaEbxCjSWWvk4qXMgMSGvUb7KChyCabLBWmjiRs9eEZBQAd-qIv6Nyogkge2Wuuw91-t13OhKPECFSg7VZ4I1taQZqvYibTpFdC_IwrxeSxDQg-WJmj0iXGRj65kPs28SUGKixV7ooM8WuuHS8fUN5drV6ZR2Rrvau4HCN4Jvg98xX2vWlGZ9hJDnO2hszsYKrk1oPEqEpKwI0FX0ZIa1EBeoCm_wbN233ceZu3C3mLG8BNxMexep5rHSCCJsQrFgIY6l_oPz_FOtCOFDCpEz-DIAb0cClcjO1iTAaHSxIaBn3t6Ac9p3yRyB=w520-h693-no
 
Last edited:
Thanks Ih8mud
As usual a great soucr to keep the cruisers going
See pics @zavasurg in ig
 
Here's why my 4wd wouldn't disengage, the lines where they connect to the frame were rusted. I cut them off and added some spare hose that I has kickn around, everything now works as it should.


aZZiyguCrWDNtiFfdAh7Z_UoDHPbI6DKQ-mJ9GmAQL7Ou1kiYSTXLJS2JZ852cbMPmwkBc3WA9QleXMZ0iH6dAROlAWY1pg4YconAho-4DH3Oxhoces0GIO-jtZ-2aTyOY1whmMxw2qlUp8_foTMdTIYhCvzQXmIteN-gonDrLaW53rjAQn3-l0D307ERpmoWbjwBRQaZBMaHrYzU9lt4rHSHIXMiG-hclO0GZ2-Mub268YHLD8Cu74yolCbo56cKd-7tQdzHFnAE_9pWRBVmt_lz0Cj78xEaLjNQRdSN78KOnVQaEbxCjSWWvk4qXMgMSGvUb7KChyCabLBWmjiRs9eEZBQAd-qIv6Nyogkge2Wuuw91-t13OhKPECFSg7VZ4I1taQZqvYibTpFdC_IwrxeSxDQg-WJmj0iXGRj65kPs28SUGKixV7ooM8WuuHS8fUN5drV6ZR2Rrvau4HCN4Jvg98xX2vWlGZ9hJDnO2hszsYKrk1oPEqEpKwI0FX0ZIa1EBeoCm_wbN233ceZu3C3mLG8BNxMexep5rHSCCJsQrFgIY6l_oPz_FOtCOFDCpEz-DIAb0cClcjO1iTAaHSxIaBn3t6Ac9p3yRyB=w520-h693-no
Look what found today...after dash disassembly new solenoids and a few beers to help me huff and puff!

Did you cut the metal before the adapter to the larger tubing size, and then splice on some new vacuum line?

Thank you for posting your picture here, I just KNEW it would be this!

F3133718-7AC4-4E8E-A5F1-9D313EF679DE.jpeg


5A3ADF7C-E67D-4024-A01A-C0A3BAED76A5.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom