Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve

[Booger weldz]

Yes that's correct! If you're simply deleting ABS and LSPV and not adding a manual valve then you don't need to buy any extra parts. You can do the whole bypass with the hardware that was deleted. Good luck!

This is how mine is. Downhill, in pouring rain in mountain mud, hwy 17 back/forth to santacruz, etc. brakes work great.

 

[warezdog]

Booger how long did it take you do the ABS and LSPV delete? Does it leave enough room for a small compressor?

 

[Booger weldz]

Booger how long did it take you do the ABS and LSPV delete? Does it leave enough room for a small compressor?

I used @jcardona1 s pics of the lines. About 2 hours, maybe? I drink more beer than wrench. Make sure you have a good 10mm flare wrench.

 

[warezdog]

Just did this with abs removal without the manual valve and love it. Did the van 20 canister at the same time. Better braking and no more whooshing out of the gas cap.

Best part is that Mr T provides all the parts needed. Still need to fab a bracket for the t but the elbow worked great pressing it flat after cutting the angle out, shorting it a tad and drilling a new hole.

 

[scrowley]

My abs is disconnected so I really have to do this. Soon.

 

[Tux318]

Would you guys recommend doing this on stock weight truck on 35's? I'm just afraid that I'll be too light in the rear and lock the tires up.

 

[jcardona1]

Would you guys recommend doing this on stock weight truck on 35's? I'm just afraid that I'll be too light in the rear and lock the tires up.

If you add a manual proportioning valve you can set the rear braking how you like. I recommend it.

 

[warezdog]

I might add the prop valve down the road but I tried like hell to get the rears to lock without luck, swung it around some wet pavement and hammered them thinking the back would fish tail on around the front but it didn't.

I'll be on some loose gravel next weekend and will experiment then but after reading dozens of threads with guys running up to 37's I have yet to see one that didn't do the valve have problems with the rear locking up.

Mine did some diving before, not much but now it does none. My LSPV was leaking badly and when I did my longfields I didn't reinstall the tone rings from my old birfs so my ABS was useless anyhow.

When it did work it worked at times when I didn't need or want it to work, wash board roads, gravel roads, hell even some smooth dirt roads would set it off, the only time it somewhat "behaved" was on dry pavement, I can probably blame that on a bad wheel sensor.

Anyhow I'm quite happy to have some space back in the engine compartment, possibly room for a compressor now!

 

[alia176]

and hammered them thinking the back would fish tail on around the front but it didn't.

Now THAT was funny, I needed that laugh. Fish tail around the front.....you smoking crack boy?

 

[warezdog]

Now THAT was funny, I needed that laugh. Fish tail around the front.....you smoking crack boy?

The doom sayers were worrying me about the backs locking up before the fronts, so I had to see for myself, if they did it surely would have came around on itself right?

 

[alia176]

The doom sayers were worrying me about the backs locking up before the fronts, so I had to see for myself, if they did it surely would have came around on itself right?

Yup, you're correct.

 

[Comet]

I deleted abs and have driven in mud, snow, and ice. I've yet to have the rear lock up on me. What is it, like four pistons up front And two in the back calipers (freshly rebuilt thanks to beno).

 

[Racer65]

Visiting from the 40 series forum...just happened to see this thread.
No need to cut the brake lines and do flaring. I offer a valve that is plug-and-play with Toyota brake lines.

 

[Booger weldz]

The doom sayers were worrying me about the backs locking up before the fronts, so I had to see for myself, if they did it surely would have came around on itself right?

I have all new rotors (rears are just turned) and calipers on all fours. Was doing about 50-55mph in the country and came around a bend with a cow in the road. It Locked up the fronts and rears simultaneously, smoked tires for 50-70 feet(?), but stayed in shape quite well. I was in a turn so if the rears locked up initially it woulda spun(assumption) some.

It's about a month later and the rubber stain is still on the road. I'd have hit that cow, undoubtedly, with the original abs setup. It's way too conservative IMO. Seemed to work great on tacomas w 37s, but not these lead bricks.

 

[Skrewball]

It may have been said, but for the ABS delete guys, it would seem like you could clean up the plumbing by putting in the 93 non abs disc/disc master cylinder to simplify things. Obviously costs more than a tee fitting.

Pretty sure the fact that the 80 is AWD would keep either axle from locking up independently in a panic situation. Even with the center diff "open".

 

[landtoy80]

The valve says " 1,000 Max psi," for the Wilwood Brake Proportioning valve 260-12627

The FZJ80 goes well over 1000 psi. I have reading up to 2000 psi with my gauge.

IS the valve gong to handle the pressure of the brake system?

 

[warezdog]

I opted to just use the T and forgo the valve, running this way for almost a year now and no issues at all. Had a guy pull out in front of me just after I put on 35's and was able to lock up all 4, had I still had ABS I would have t boned the guy for sure.

Personally I think the brakes are better since ABS removal and LSPV but I also put in 100 series pads up front when I did it.

I was a bit hesitant to remove it all but with the LSPV leaking like a sieve and the cost of replacing I figured what the hell.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Has anyone defeated the ABS light on the dash? Pull bulb - resistor?? when removing their ABS unit?

Thanks,

John

 

[Comet]

Abs. Pull the light. Carry on.

 

[warezdog]

There was a write up on the ABS light to feed it 12v after start and it will go out but for the life of me I can't find it now, I know I book marked on one of my PC's