Wont start up after HG

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Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Threads
102
Messages
496
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
Hey folks, I had a burnt valve and had to do a head removal to take it i to shop. Long story short git this back together and can't get it to start. Cranks and cranks. I took dizzy back out and made double sure alignment was good with the cam and still no go.
I think it has something to do with shifter or NSS because the vehicle rolls in park?Rolled into my garage door after I removed wheel chocks. Not sure where to troubleshoot. I didnt take any of the lower harness apart for this job.just the fuel rail section and throttle body?
 
Hey folks, I had a burnt valve and had to do a head removal to take it i to shop. Long story short git this back together and can't get it to start. Cranks and cranks. I took dizzy back out and made double sure alignment was good with the cam and still no go.
I think it has something to do with shifter or NSS because the vehicle rolls in park?Rolled into my garage door after I removed wheel chocks. Not sure where to troubleshoot. I didnt take any of the lower harness apart for this job.just the fuel rail section and throttle body?
If it rolls in park, there is nothing electrically that would cause that.

If you have ONE tire off the ground, then yes.

Otherwise, if the T-Case is in Neutral or the trans linkage is messed up and not actually in Park.

Check the linkages to get them in the right place, maybe that's preventing your NSS from being in the right place to allow it to start.
 
The two problems stated are totally unrelated.

When you reinserted the distributor did you also confirm that the engine was at TDC on the compression stroke. TDC occurs twice, once on the compression stroke and the second time on the exhaust stroke. If it does not start then there is a good chance your on the wrong TDC. Rotate the engine one revolution, pull the distributor and reinsert it in the proper position and try again.
 
Welp low range shifter was in N , didnt check that before. Not sure how that happened. Still won't start
 
The two problems stated are totally unrelated.

When you reinserted the distributor did you also confirm that the engine was at TDC on the compression stroke. TDC occurs twice, once on the compression stroke and the second time on the exhaust stroke. If it does not start then there is a good chance your on the wrong TDC. Rotate the engine one revolution, pull the distributor and reinsert it in the proper position and try again.
Yes I checked the mark on the wheel and confirmed with flashlight after I took out the spark plug. The #1 cylinder was all the way up.
 
You made sure all of the throttle and plumbing to it is correctly installed? Reason I say this is I had my air box out and the round top thing was putting some downward pressure on a linkage and it would not allow me to start my rig. I put my air cleaner back properly and it was starting just fine again.
 
That does not mean you are on TDC of the compression stroke. Rotate the engine one revolution and pull and reinsert the distributor.
I dont understand. The TDC is exactly there no? With #1 at the top of the range of travel?
 
You made sure all of the throttle and plumbing to it is correctly installed? Reason I say this is I had my air box out and the round top thing was putting some downward pressure on a linkage and it would not allow me to start my rig. I put my air cleaner back properly and it was starting just fine again.
Beleive so, I've taken that thing off alot since I've owned it. Been staring at the SOB and can't come up with a reason it wouldn't start
 
Like I stated before there are two times the piston will be at TDC. Once at full compression when the spark fires the air fuel mixture pushing the piston down. It then moves up towards TDC again pushing the exhaust gases out. Next the piston moves downward sucking in fresh air and fuel. The distributor makes one revolution for two rotations of the crankshaft.

To be certain you can pull the valve cover and make sure both intake and exhaust valves are completely closed at TDC. Assuming the distributor has been properly places at either of TDC positions, is much easier to rotate the engine and reinsert the distributor than removing the valve cover.
 
I dont understand. The TDC is exactly there no? With #1 at the top of the range of travel?
It must be at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke.

This is a 4-stroke engine.
Intake
Compression
Power
Exhaust

It only fires every TWO revolutions, not every revolution.

If it is on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is OPEN and you have no compression, no fuel (because the injector didn't fire), and no spark (because the computer told it to fire when it was on the previous revolution.

Rotate the engine ONE FULL TURN, back to TDC, with the distributor out, then re-insert to point at #1.

I stuff a paper towel in the spark plug hole of #1 (with the plug out) and when rotating the engine puffs out the towel, I'm on the compression stroke.
 
I dont understand. The TDC is exactly there no? With #1 at the top of the range of travel?
This is a 4 stroke engine. 2 of the strokes will see the piston at TDC. Only one of those strokes is the compression stroke. The match marks on the timing cover and pulley only indicate where the piston is and not what stroke it is on..As @ppc mentioned you have to make sure you are on the compression stroke. If you have compression tester then it may detect the compression building in the cylinder. Then dial in with with pulley matchmarks and install the distributor- make sure you use the matchmarks on the dissy as well.
 
So now I'm questioning whether I had the two cams mated with the big one on the correct TDC?
 
So now I'm questioning whether I had the two cams mated with the big one on the correct TDC?
If the engine was on TDC when you set the cams and aligned the marks, then you got it right.

The crank doesn't care WHICH TDC you hit until the cams are installed. Then, your distributor tells the spark plugs when to fire, based on the cam's location.

The cams turn ONE time for every TWO rotations of the engine.
 
So now I'm questioning whether I had the two cams mated with the big one on the correct TDC?
It's kinda hard to get that one wrong. If the single matchmarks on the cams were aligned and the mark on the cam sprocket was at 12 oclock and the pulley was on the 0 mark then you can't go wrong. If you aligned the double matchmarks on the cam by mistake then you would be out 180°.
 
There are markings on the cam chain that need to matched with the markings on the intake cam. If you never rotated the engine during disassembly of the cams then there should not be an issue. This is all documented in the the FSM. The previous posts are dealing with the relative position of the cams to the distributor position. I suggest you read through the FSM a few times to determined if everything was done properly during reassembly.
 
If the engine was on TDC when you set the cams and aligned the marks, then you got it right.

The crank doesn't care WHICH TDC you hit until the cams are installed. Then, your distributor tells the spark plugs when to fire, based on the cam's location.

The cams turn ONE time for every TWO rotations of the engine.
Thank the lord because I dont want to take the valve cover off again
 
Followed the FSM as well as Otramm video. Second time doing this, first time in 2015 was on stand and full rebuild. Should be good on top two cams just gotta mess with figuring out compression stroke vs the other stroke now lol
 

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