Wondering about my birfields (wear) (1 Viewer)

[Joachim]

Hi all, and thank you for this community.

I’m doing front axle rebuild and have just taken apart the Birfields.

They looking pretty worn (check pictures).

It’s kinda a daily driver, so at this moment I haven’t got the time to wait for new joints. And it’s also a high cost at the dealer in my country.

Are they completely shot? Truck has 512.000 kms.

 

[Wrencher93]

I'm not a mechanic, but I have serviced my front and rear axles. My birfields were a little less worn than yours at just under 250k miles. I didn't have the nicks in the cage like yours do but I did have the wear grooves in the star and wear marks from the ball bearings in the cage. If you don't have the money to get new ones I would reinstall these, making sure you install them to where the smaller of the two wear grooves is the one being used. Run them until they start to click.

 

[clb 017]

If they ain't ratcheting (popping on sharp turns) start a savings fund and run em!

 

[WCBlueSky]

If they don't click I'd run them.

 

[Joachim]

Thanks for the answers.

Yeah they have chips and nicks in every hole of the cage. I may have noticed some clicking at sharp turns but not extreme.

Anyway, they will stay in there for the next knuckle overhaul interval. Which is what for a road daily driven vehicle may I ask?

 

[clb 017]

I wouldn't worry for street, in 4wd they carry torque, that will be when they grenade.
don't drive like a tard you should be good.
look up rcv in the states

 

[BILT4ME]

Hi all, and thank you for this community.

I’m doing front axle rebuild and have just taken apart the Birfields.

They looking pretty worn (check pictures).

It’s kinda a daily driver, so at this moment I haven’t got the time to wait for new joints. And it’s also a high cost at the dealer in my country.

Are they completely shot? Truck has 512.000 kms.View attachment 2736556View attachment 2736557View attachment 2736558View attachment 2736559

That's heavily worn and I'm sure they click hard in turns.

Since you're throwing it back together regardless, swap sides with the Birfield and cage left to right so the power side will be on the opposite side and then they will only click in reverse.

 

[jpoole]

for the next knuckle overhaul interval. Which is what for a road daily driven vehicle may I ask?

From @Onur in 2011 (post #4 here Normal Interval for Packing Front Wheel Bearings? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/normal-interval-for-packing-front-wheel-bearings.469869/ ):

"Official Toyota technical information posits wheel bearing repacks (just the hubs) at 30K; full front end rebuilds at 60K. Repeat as necessary. "

 

[Joachim]

Thank you again.

Will start a savings fund, and get new ones in at the next rebuild, or sooner(!) greased them up very good now, was very little grease in there when I opened. Switched sides.

As you can see from the picture below, passenger side really needed a new axle seal. Funny thing is that I just had that hub out to replace some broken wheel studs. Started leaking diff oil right after. Strange.

 

[Squeegee]

It looks like a hampster has been chewing on them. I’d change them out

 

[Joachim]

Update time.
Job finished. The other side has what looks like a OEM birfield joint. For all I know its the factory one. A lot less wear. Repacked both thoroughly, did not switch sides. and no clicking at turns so far.

Guess what Toyota Norway wanted for a new OEM birf? $2535(!) So next rebuild I will buy two Chromoly for less than a third of the price..

Passenger side may just have had the most worn out lower trunnion bearing in history. And some white plastic stuck in it. Check pics.

Anyway, thanks for the help with this rebuild.

PS: have struggled with the car stalling when turning steering wheel at low rpm. After the new trunnion bearing, that problem is gone. Just saying, if someone else struggles with the same.

 

[BILT4ME]

Update time.
Job finished. The other side has what looks like a OEM birfield joint. For all I know its the factory one. A lot less wear. Repacked both thoroughly, did not switch sides. and no clicking at turns so far.

Guess what Toyota Norway wanted for a new OEM birf? $2535(!) So next rebuild I will buy two Chromoly for less than a third of the price..

Passenger side may just have had the most worn out lower trunnion bearing in history. And some white plastic stuck in it. Check pics.

Anyway, thanks for the help with this rebuild.

PS: have struggled with the car stalling when turning steering wheel at low rpm. After the new trunnion bearing, that problem is gone. Just saying, if someone else struggles with the same.

View attachment 2739321View attachment 2739322View attachment 2739323View attachment 2739324

My trunnions were shattered when I pulled them apart from the PO.

Don't buy chromoly shafts. Get the RCV OEM replacement shafts they will be better unless you're doing rock crawling.

 

[DSRTRDR]

also check into PartsSouq as a supplier - almost guaranteed to be cheaper than $2500

or get used birfs from a European shop or on Buschtaxi or similar sites

 

[DivByZero]

Yeah, I'd personally go new genuine if you can afford it. Current part number is 43405-60120. Partsouq has them listed for $370.72:

SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER 4340560120 | Toyota Parts | PartSouq

Quality parts for Toyota auto with fast delivery here! For a fast search using the part number 4340560120 - SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER

partsouq.com

Unfortunately out of stock right now through them, but I expect they'll have them back in soon. If you're prepared to wait longer for postage, Amayama has them in stock currently for a range of prices depending on which source you pick:

Toyota 43405-60120 (4340560120) SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER

Toyota 43405-60120 (4340560120) SHAFT SUB-ASSY, FRONT AXLE OUTER. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

Most of the sources through Amayama are more expensive than Partsouq but there's one out of the UAE listed for $247.42 right now, which is pretty good if you're only after the one.