ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion (4 Viewers)

[Razorbackcruiser]

Is there any danger in overfilling with oil? Also is there a consensus of the best typeface lubricant to use?

@mjeckell did you run the line from the manifold to the tank thru the frame? If so how hard was it?

Thanks!

 

[NLXTACY]

Mineral oil or engine oil

 

[Razorbackcruiser]

Dangers of overfilling?

 

[NLXTACY]

Dangers of overfilling?

Pretty sure you get more blow by

 

[Razorbackcruiser]

Ahh yeah, that makes sense.

Btw, @NLXTACY sent you a PM.

 

[mjeckell]

Definitely do not overfill. I made that mistake the first time. I started all over by emptying all oil from compressor by taking head off and cleaning it all up. I put it all back together and filled it 6-7 oz with a syringe of 10-30 engine oil. I have not had any blowby since.

I ran the hose through the frame all the way front to back and used the existing holes. It was fairly easy. My son helped me at times to push or locate where the end was currently at. I thought it was going to be more a pain then it turned out to be. Plus it seemed to be the only logical choice for protection from heat and moving parts.

 

[NLXTACY]

Does my idiocy know no bounds???

I wanted them so I made them, air Coupler plugs. Links will go up in the morning. I’m tired and going to bed.

White: Teflon
Black: Delrin
Brass: er, brass
Blue: anodized aluminum

 

[thatcabledude]

Rad.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Thank goodness there are none in 6M1

 

[NLXTACY]

Thank goodness there are none in 6M1

Green is gross. That’s why

 

[NLXTACY]

Page is finally up: Quick Connect Air Coupler Plug

 

[dcguillory]

Sexy

 

[vegansbane]

Man, I really like those, but one thing is holding me back. Seems like they'd shoot out like bullets when you uncouple under pressure - have you noticed that?

For now I've got rubber caps on my chucks, but these are a whole lot nicer looking

 

[NLXTACY]

Man, I really like those, but one thing is holding me back. Seems like they'd shoot out like bullets when you uncouple under pressure - have you noticed that?

For now I've got rubber caps on my chucks, but these are a whole lot nicer looking

100% does. Which is why I put a key ring on it for a tether

 

[Steve D]

I finally got around to swapping my pre-production Wits' End (tm) manifold bracket with the powdercoated production unit. @NLXTACY came through for me this spring when I needed the bracket for Moab but couldn't wait on powdercoating.

Man, I need to clean my engine bay or get the new one muddy. I know Joey hates stacked adapters but due to the location of all my components, I switched the "in" and "out" ends of the manifold. This meant the AN fitting side of things (from the coalescing filter, left side of the photo) interfered with the hood strut. A 15* 1/4" NPT fitting did the trick. If anyone needs one, I now have several spares I'd gladly send for the cost of postage.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Is there going to be any difference in mounting the air lines (compressor in/out), or filter, for fitment of the pending turbo?

 

[NLXTACY]

Is there going to be any difference in mounting the air lines (compressor in/out), or filter, for fitment of the pending turbo?

I'm trying hard to keep it all in consideration. The above pic isn't an OBD2 truck so the filter canister setup will be different. The discharge line from the York may wind up being the biggest headache but I'll figure out a solution for it.

 

[jjdeneen918]

I'm trying hard to keep it all in consideration. The above pic isn't an OBD2 truck so the filter canister setup will be different. The discharge line from the York may wind up being the biggest headache but I'll figure out a solution for it.

Yeah, the pictures in this post have the air lines & filter attached to the air filter box.
I like how it is currently laid out, but it looks like it has the possibility of getting in the way of the turbo or being really close to all the components.
I don’t want to start making holes in the air box, then have to relocate & have the box looking like Swiss cheese.

This post has a LOT of great info, photos, and schematics. Makes this project easier to see how everything goes together.

 

[dtchevy42]

Yeah, the pictures in this post have the air lines & filter attached to the air filter box.
I like how it is currently laid out, but it looks like it has the possibility of getting in the way of the turbo or being really close to all the components.
I don’t want to start making holes in the air box, then have to relocate & have the box looking like Swiss cheese.

This post has a LOT of great info, photos, and schematics. Makes this project easier to see how everything goes together.

These posts revivals are timely because I've had the parts for some time, but finally am getting around to installing. I've been working on this after work every day for the past week, and it's coming together. JJdeneen918, I didn't want to drill my air filter inlet either until I'm happy with the routing. For now, I'm using the Solberg filter that a lot of the Jeep people have recommended. It seems to be a solid filter.

https://www.amazon.com/Solberg-FS-0...=1525224906&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=solberg+060

You'll just need an AN -8 fitting to 1/2" coupler like the brass one you see below. It does clear the hood. I still recommend Wits End's "Pass-thru Kit" with the bulkhead fitting for the air filter neck. If you don't use the bulkhead fitting, you'll find somewhere else to use the straight-through AN fitting and hose that comes with it.

I'm still finishing up the wiring so haven't fired this up yet, but this might be an option for you to test the setup before you drill a big hole.

 

[sunrk]

they look like nice compressors - how do they compare to Air-on-Board and Endless-Air modifed Sanden AC compressors that appear to be the common choice for a 'live' engine-powered air compressor in the local Oz market?

Has anyone fitted a York-type kit to a diesel-powered 80 with a regular 1hz or 1hdt motor?