ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion

[TrickyT]

I'm sourcing the unloader valves now. The coalescing filter with the sintered bronze is proving to be a huge pain in the ass, at least in the price point that makes any sense at all. Still trying.

The one I use is a Coilhose Pneumatics 8823MX.
Google claims it's available from here for $48, but you should verify that's really the MX model (M=metal bowl, X=12 micron sintered bronze element). I paid around $70 several years ago and it's hard to believe the price would have dropped that much.

 

[bulhas]

Posted in the other thread but figured I'd post here as well:

So thanks to @bulhas ruining my relationship with Parker after I asked about what was brought up...

I stopped by Swagelok this morning because lucky me, they are only 30mins from my house woohoo!

The quality is there but the sheer amount of options can't be touched compared to Parker. Parker is just massive. Swagelok isn't but holy hell their work is phenomenal. I have so many ideas now. Custom tube bending, orbital welding. Cool stuff. So after two hours discussing my projects I am on a great bath to getting kits together. I'm still trying to source the Coalescing filter I can be happy with but I think I have everything worked out...in my head anyway

More info coming in the next few days/weeks~ish

its amazing what happens to the feedback you get once you ask some questions eh! Swagelok is just one of those amazing companies I've dealt with a for a long time

 

[NLXTACY]

its amazing what happens to the feedback you get once you ask some questions eh! Swagelok is just one of those amazing companies I've dealt with a for a long time

Well believe it or not I actually take all feedback into account. Most I will dismiss after giving it a second of thought. Some feedback though causes me to take pause and look further into the details. This was one of those cases and it well, glad I did.

 

[canman]

Dealt with Parker extensively in my A/C days One of the better vendors I worked with. Found Swageloc nice but pricey for our needs. With all this talk of OBA and lockers, perhaps you could source a pneumatic cylinder kit for those with OEM lockers...

 

[Razorbackcruiser]

Ok guys, I have researched this AND talked to NLXTACY but still don't feel confident enough to go ahead and buy my new 6" pulley for my York. Maybe some of you guys that got the first run of these can chime in.

I've currently got a 7" pulley on my York and want to go down to a 6" but I have hit a roadblock on which pulley I need. Can I use the single grove pulley or will I need the double grove pulley for correct belt alignment?

NLXTACY said his setup uses the outer most grove on a double, so does the single grove pulley line up in the same plane as the outermost grove on a double? Hence the innermost grove on a double sits closer to the body of the York than a single?

Any help would be appreciated and NLXTACY it's not that I don't believe you I just only want to order once!

Thanks in advance!

 

[NLXTACY]

No worries on my end. I have not seen all the options out there so better to be sure than be sorry.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Ok guys, I have researched this AND talked to NLXTACY but still don't feel confident enough to go ahead and buy my new 6" pulley for my York. Maybe some of you guys that got the first run of these can chime in.

I've currently got a 7" pulley on my York and want to go down to a 6" but I have hit a roadblock on which pulley I need. Can I use the single grove pulley or will I need the double grove pulley for correct belt alignment?

NLXTACY said his setup uses the outer most grove on a double, so does the single grove pulley line up in the same plane as the outermost grove on a double? Hence the innermost grove on a double sits closer to the body of the York than a single?

Any help would be appreciated and NLXTACY it's not that I don't believe you I just only want to order once!

Thanks in advance!

I really wonder if it's worth worrying about, as long as the bigger pulley fits. It'll turn about 15% slower I'm guessing. From what I've seen, most people run their York's around 1200 rpm. That would mean you'd have to run 1400 rpm to get the same output. Unless you can find a clutch for cheap, it might not be worth it. Most of the clutches I've seen online cost as much as a remanufactured York that actually comes with the right pulley.

 

[Razorbackcruiser]

That's a good point but I found a single for around $68. That's not too bad and I think is probably worth it.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

That's a good point but I found a single for around $68. That's not too bad and I think is probably worth it.

Yeah that's pretty decent, most the ones I've seen were twice that or more.

 

[Razorbackcruiser]

Ok I'm back with ANOTHER question (I know, the nerve, right?). I got to messing with my York to get it ready and decided to measure the pulley. Turns out it's a little over a 6" pulley but it has a bigger diameter "weight" attached to it. So here's my question, (excuse my ignorance) would this weight make the York run more efficiently or less? I can' really wrap my mind around it because I could see it hurting at start up but maybe helping after it got to full speed?

IDK, somebody enlighten me please!

 

[lazy]

Question, what hose do you all use coming out of the compressor? What temp is it rated for? Mine dumps into a tank within 12", so a fancy hose isn't that much of a cost...

 

[69vortec]

Ok I'm back with ANOTHER question (I know, the nerve, right?). I got to messing with my York to get it ready and decided to measure the pulley. Turns out it's a little over a 6" pulley but it has a bigger diameter "weight" attached to it. So here's my question, (excuse my ignorance) would this weight make the York run more efficiently or less? I can' really wrap my mind around it because I could see it hurting at start up but maybe helping after it got to full speed?

IDK, somebody enlighten me please!

View attachment 1253460

I have never seen one with a weight before.
My pulley measures 6.042, I currently have it apart replacing the bearing.

 

[69vortec]

Question, what hose do you all use coming out of the compressor? What temp is it rated for? Mine dumps into a tank within 12", so a fancy hose isn't that much of a cost...

On my 69 fj with the vortec I tried using stadard air hose but the heat would kill it over time causing the hose to split. I ended up using steel braided hose with AN fitting and never had an issue again. I plan on using the same setup with the 80.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

I didn't read the entire thread so forgive me if this was discussed already. Since this thread is about schematics, I thought I'd throw in my .02 cents worth with respect to the electrical wiring.

We all know that a pressure switch is required so that the comp will know when it cut in/cut out. Since I'm not a big fan of hacking up my dash nor throwing pressure gauges everywhere, I opted to go for a more subtle approach. I basically followed the wiring circuit laid out by an old company that used to sell the "Quick Air 2" air comps. Not sure if you can find it still online but if you can't, let me know as I'm sure I have it on my home machine. This approach uses a simple lighted switch and here's how it works:

- turn on the air comp switch.
- lights turns on
- comp hits the cut out pressure setpoint (105 psi in my case but 150psi is another common setpoint)
- when the cut out press has been reached, the indicator light in the switch shuts off EVEN though the switch is still on the ON pos.
- when the air pressure drops below the cut in pressure (80psi in my case, 100 psi in others), the comp clutch pulls in
- the indicator light comes on again
-rinse, repeat.

So, this way of wiring lets the driver know when the comp is running and when it has reached the min pressure. I don't have a need for a pressure gauge in the cab but do have one under the hood and one on the front ARB bumper.

Anyway, just some useless info for y'all!!

I like this idea over using a pressure gauge in the cab, definitely going in my bookmarks!

 

[69vortec]

Not sure if this is out there but here is a manual for the York compressor. There is good info such as torque values for all harware, oil info, etc.
york manual.pdf

If the link doesn't work PM me and I will send a copy.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Not sure if this is out there but here is a manual for the York compressor. There is good info such as torque values for all harware, oil info, etc.
york manual.pdf

If the link doesn't work PM me and I will send a copy.

Link worked for me, thanks

 

[hamishpotter]

Wits' End this is another fantastic, robust mod. Very well documented and illustrated. Thank you.

Now you're making me rethink my PUMA that I took too much time to mount to my drawers and route hoses for.

Quickie: someone mentioned running an impact - my PUMA really struggles turning an impact, so.. can you really run an impact off of a York OBA setup? is that just a function of the size of the tank? pardon my ignorance.

Keep up the great work! Am looking forward to each new W.E. mod

 

[NLXTACY]

Wits' End this is another fantastic, robust mod. Very well documented and illustrated. Thank you.

Now you're making me rethink my PUMA that I took too much time to mount to my drawers and route hoses for.

Quickie: someone mentioned running an impact - my PUMA really struggles turning an impact, so.. can you really run an impact off of a York OBA setup? is that just a function of the size of the tank? pardon my ignorance.

Keep up the great work! Am looking forward to each new W.E. mod

Impact straight from the York prolly not but absolutely with a small tank. Unlimited and as long as the truck is running you have air. No electricity draw other than a small circuit for the clutch.

 

[TrickyT]

...Quickie: someone mentioned running an impact - my PUMA really struggles turning an impact, so.. can you really run an impact off of a York OBA setup? is that just a function of the size of the tank?...

It depends on your impact wrench and what pressure you run your tank at. Some require a higher volume of air than others. The Ingersoll-Rand 2235 is a beautiful impact wrench (and not cheap), but uses 24 CFM at max torque. (Beware most manufactures spec average CFM air consumption.) And other air tools like die grinders and drills that you typically run for longer periods deplete your tank quite quickly even when running your York at fairly high rpm, requiring you to pause and let the pressure build back up in the tank. For this reason I have a 120 psi pressure switch and then regulate this down to 90 psi for the tools. I might even go to 150 psi switch if I had to do it over again. And this also argues for the largest tank you can conveniently fit. I have a 2.5g Viair and wouldn't go smaller if you plan to use any air tools.

 

[jonheld]

I ran an IR2131 off my York OBA setup on my white 80. I used it to swap tires before and after runs for about 10 years. I had a 2 gallon tank and ran it at 140 psi regulated down to 90. It would run that tool all day long.
It ran out of steam when I was using an air grinder to cut off part of my exhaust that got ripped off years ago. But the tank charged up quickly.
Once you go York, you never go back.
In 2002 I made a spreadsheet comparing all the available products (at that time) when I was looking into adding OBA to my truck. Take a look at the numbers.