Thanks!
Yea, def haven't had to have the headlights apart in my 5 years of ownership. Lucky I guess.
ARCHIVE Wits' End Turbo Test Mule #3- no cartwheeling allowed (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter NLXTACY
- Start date
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Thanks!
Yea, def haven't had to have the headlights apart in my 5 years of ownership. Lucky I guess.
does anyone put switch pro’s in the door panel?
As a master replacement, or did you mean in the ashtrays?
They're thin enough you could. The cable bundle may be a pain to get through the hinge gap but if you depinned all the terminals in the connector it would be feasible.
Actually I was only thinking new rubber guide. I'm still waiting to put mine in for the mirror lights.
I wouldn't try to run anything through the OEM grommet unless I still had some fight in me after tackling the PHH and the power steering lines and felt like another punch in the crotch.NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #887
Ah the importance of testing. This is a small example of why it takes me so long to bring some things to market. Sometimes testing doesn’t give the desired result and so you need to recalibrate and test again.
In this case I completely forgot to secure the methanol injection hose that goes to the nozzle post turbo. This caused the hose to drop and get with an inch of the turbo downpipe and this melting the sheathing on the hose. Now the hose itself is fine because it’s stainless sheathed with a Teflon inner tube. It’ll be fine, but it looks and smells ugly. So new hose being made and new heat sleaving going over it along with something to secure it in place.
In this case I completely forgot to secure the methanol injection hose that goes to the nozzle post turbo. This caused the hose to drop and get with an inch of the turbo downpipe and this melting the sheathing on the hose. Now the hose itself is fine because it’s stainless sheathed with a Teflon inner tube. It’ll be fine, but it looks and smells ugly. So new hose being made and new heat sleaving going over it along with something to secure it in place.
The nerve of them not sending it in yellow zinc. for shame!!
Seriously - your pictures alone are pushing some hard "want that" in me.
How bright are the buttons on the switch pro? I assume they are backlit. I would really like them over the mirror so I could get at them and maybe even figure out how to make a homelink button or garage door opener...but if those things are bright it could be an annoyance.
The cost of a switchpro has kept me away but it never stopped me from dreaming.
The cost of a switchpro has kept me away but it never stopped me from dreaming.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #895
The blueing on the downpipe. Wasn’t concerned about leaking but just wanted to see how the heat was distributed along the downpipe. I’m going to temporarily wrap the downpipe until the heat blankets show up. It’s 300 miles to Las Vegas and with my wife driving I know she’s going to put the heat barrier on the passenger floor to the test. 
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #896
The #downpipe blankets aren’t ready yet and I haven’t ceramic coated my own either. Since I’ve got a lot of driving to do I figured I’d at least get my downpipe wrapped. I just got 50ft of 2in lava wrap and got it wet and started wrapping. Took about 20 mins to do the whole thing and used the supplied clamps which are fine.
You don't have to get the Lava/Titanium wrap wet that is just with the old fiberglass stuff.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
- Thread starter
- #899
After doing some really long hill climbs over by me I had noticed that bare metal of the downpipe emits more heat than I’m comfortable with. It needs to be ceramic coated and/or have it wrapped with a heat blanket. Blanket > wrap.
One of the things that was an eye opener was the AC shut off during the long climb do 80+. But my engine temps only hit 202°. As it turns out the intense heat the downpipe emits (without coating/wrap) AND it’s proximity to the hard AC Lin’s at the firewall (about an inch) means it was heating the AC lines causing the AC to shut off.
I did two things: I covered the downpipe with a wrap until the blankets are ready AND I put some heat wrap around the AC hard lines by using the same stuff I use for the long AC hose.
There is no very little heat except where the turbo/downpipe isn’t covered and the AC is blowing cool as ice.
One of the things that was an eye opener was the AC shut off during the long climb do 80+. But my engine temps only hit 202°. As it turns out the intense heat the downpipe emits (without coating/wrap) AND it’s proximity to the hard AC Lin’s at the firewall (about an inch) means it was heating the AC lines causing the AC to shut off.
I did two things: I covered the downpipe with a wrap until the blankets are ready AND I put some heat wrap around the AC hard lines by using the same stuff I use for the long AC hose.
There is no very little heat except where the turbo/downpipe isn’t covered and the AC is blowing cool as ice.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
I am glad I decided to go the extra step of getting my downpipe and j-pipe ceramic coated. Ceramic coatng + blanket should for sure keep the heat inside the pipes.
