ARCHIVE Wits' End Turbo Test Mule #3- no cartwheeling allowed

[NLXTACY]

But .... but, I wanna go back to being one of the cool kids that can get out of my car while it's still running and have it turn off automatically 30 seconds later

Ummm...you can?

 

[Rivman1243]

Wow, sorry, I opened that can of worms

 

[CHDAZ80]

We are talking about blowing something way out of proportion like Mud often has the propensity to do. lol.

Back in the 80's-90's turbo technology was a long way off from where it is today. There was no ball bearing turbos, turbine and compressor wheels were very heavy, etc. so turbos were sized small and that meant at high RPM's you were running at the max operating RPM's of the turbo. In some turbos that is as high as 160,000RPMs. The shafts would get hot and then if you turned the car off the oil would sit against that shaft that was spinning 160,000RPMs and cook. This turbo at less than 1/2 the max RPM (~64,000RPMs), very little shaft temp, so oil cooking is not an issue.

This is exactly why I posed the question about cooling, there is a lot of old outdated information out there on the subject and I want to be sure how it applies or doesn't apply to this system. Because this turbo has water ports I figured why not take advantage of the added cooling if there isn't a downside to doing so, only added protection against high temps and turbo life. Normal ops might be at 20% of max but on prolonged hill climbs on a high altitude hot day or many other high demand situations you could see some high transient temps. Might be nice to have that extra protection.
Im just trying to educate myself on the subject and understand the potential issues, I appreciate all the great insight.

 

[scottryana]

In my opinion there is definitely nothing wrong with adding the water cooling. I do not think it will have any adverse effect on a "Good" cooling system. I don't think prolonged climbs or other high demand situations are really going to be high demand. The system uses a wastegate to basically limit the turbo. This is kind of a poor analogy but if you put a limiter on the 1FZ and only let it run at 2000RPMs it would run like that basically forever and never have much issue, the turbo is the same way. The wastegate is the limiter and it is very far down in the turbo's range.

And unless something has changed. The turbo I spec'd only had oil cooling anyways so it is kind of a moot point unless Borg Warner gave Joey a free upgrade. lol.

This is exactly why I posed the question about cooling, there is a lot of old outdated information out there on the subject and I want to be sure how it applies or doesn't apply to this system. Because this turbo has water ports I figured why not take advantage of the added cooling if there isn't a downside to doing so, only added protection against high temps and turbo life. Normal ops might be at 20% of max but on prolonged hill climbs on a high altitude hot day or many other high demand situations you could see some high transient temps. Might be nice to have that extra protection.
Im just trying to educate myself on the subject and understand the potential issues, I appreciate all the great insight.

 

[CHDAZ80]

I thought it had the ports for liquid cooling but they were capped off... yeah, no point going around in circles over that idea. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[NLXTACY]

Yeah the water ports on this turbo are blind holes

 

[LXDOC]

Let us know which water/meth system is superior since it looks like no air/water intercooler kit.

 

[NLXTACY]

Let us know which water/meth system is superior since it looks like no air/water intercooler kit.

No AW-IC...currently

I can’t speak to superiority of any one methanol injection system. I’m currently working on components that will make it as bolt on as possible to have a kit ready to go. I *think* I’m choosing the best components I can. We shall see.

 

[NLXTACY]

The oil pump cover on the 1FZ is a cast piece of aluminum that is machined flat, likely 300 series. I’ve seen a few oxidized/damaged covers over the years. It’s a cast piece so it’s not winning any beauty awards but decide to hard anodize it before installing. It’s a forever piece now

 

[thelal]

Few more pics of the zinc plating.

thats cool.

 

[NLXTACY]

Ok ok so once again let me point out how special stupid I am. I’m replacing the 80 Series power steering #paperclip with a #Derale #DualPass power steering cooler. Instead of keeping it raw aluminum I went ahead and had it black anodized to make it blingy for the turbo truck.

There are (2) brass 1/4NPT to 3/8” nipples that come with it but I opted instead to upgrade the hose to some nice Continental oil hose and am using a 1/4NPT to AN-6 adapter so that I can then use various angle fittings to get a cleaner look.

I *think* I might make a kit out of this. Not sure yet.

 

[Dissent]

Ok ok so once again let me point out how special stupid I am. I’m replacing the 80 Series power steering #paperclip with a #Derale #DualPass power steering cooler. Instead of keeping it raw aluminum I went ahead and had it black anodized to make it blingy for the turbo truck.

There are (2) brass 1/4NPT to 3/8” nipples that come with it but I opted instead to upgrade the hose to some nice Continental oil hose and am using a 1/4NPT to AN-6 adapter so that I can then use various angle fittings to get a cleaner look.

I *think* I might make a kit out of this. Not sure yet.

View attachment 2013749View attachment 2013750

Bah!! Too late, I'm never going to touch my PS again. The devil created that PiTA.

 

[NLXTACY]

While I have a few minutes before lunch gets here I’d figured I would explain how best to install the crank seal for the #1FZ engine.


Typical seal drivers (as seen with the blue driver) won’t work for two reasons: 1. The lip on the seal will get mangled and 2. The crank end protrudes out for the crank pulley so a typical seal driver won’t work.

Instead, go to your local hardware store and get a 2” PVC pipe cap. The I.D. Of the cap perfectly fits around the lip of the seal and makes perfect contact with the seal face to be driven in. A couple taps and it’s good to go. Just make sure you clean the seal’s mating surface first.

I think I’m going to start including the caps in the kits. No sense forcing people to run out to the store.

 

[thebfg]

I think I’m going to start including the caps in the kits. No sense forcing people to run out to the store.

I'm totally fine with a used cap being included in my order I placed yesterday!

 

[NLXTACY]

I'm totally fine with a used cap being included in my order I placed yesterday!

Done. Just waiting for the bag of 1000screws to show up and It'll go out.

 

[NLXTACY]

So @OTRAMM has a nice tool for this but @Dynosoar has a ready made tool he uses for removing and installing the crank bolt and pulley. Peter came by and let a quick hand with the tool. Easy on and easy off.

 

[TossYoda]

Joey getting closer and closer to just making his own Improved 80 Series 3.0.

 

[NLXTACY]

This is the zinc plated male oil thread found on the side of the 1FZ block. If you look at the chatter marks on the threads, that’s bad. Typically you would that from tooling by the machinist. Since this is Toyota is EXTREMELY doubtful this came off the assembly line like this. Instead it’s more likely that s***ty after market oil filters have a thread that doesn’t match perfectly or wasn’t deburred properly. Basically cheap, s***ty oil filters. This makes removing filters harder as the years go on. Add to that this oil filter was put on with far too much force. Typical oil filter tools didn’t work. It took crushing the cam with a wrench to finally break it loose.

 

[Dissent]

I may pickup one of those 90' filter jobbies but aren't you limited to the tiny filters? Found out my LX, the wife's RX and my boy's Dakota all take the same mini filter. Makes shopping easy!

 

[NLXTACY]

I may pickup one of those 90' filter jobbies but aren't you limited to the tiny filters? Found out my LX, the wife's RX and my boy's Dakota all take the same mini filter. Makes shopping easy!

I'm not sure actually