ARCHIVE Wits' End Turbo Test Mule #3- no cartwheeling allowed

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I'm not sure actually :hmm:
I read on @LandCruiserPhil's thread that the long ones hit some of the hoses or a wiring harness. When I had the PS apart, I did the filter change at the same time and there is something that may be in the way with a long filter, can't recall what it was. Short clears NP though.
 
Hood is completely cleaned and waxed and time to install the rubber trim.

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I have no experience not preference with any methanol injection company. As long as they don’t sell me chinese made garbage I’ll consider it a win. This pump is made in Colorado so that’s half the battle. Going with a 100ml nozzle and using a new OEM washer tank to store the methanol. It’s all going to be plumbed in but NOT going to be part of the CARB certification.

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This is the zinc plated male oil thread found on the side of the 1FZ block. If you look at the chatter marks on the threads, that’s bad. Typically you would that from tooling by the machinist. Since this is Toyota is EXTREMELY doubtful this came off the assembly line like this. Instead it’s more likely that s***ty after market oil filters have a thread that doesn’t match perfectly or wasn’t deburred properly. Basically cheap, s***ty oil filters. This makes removing filters harder as the years go on. Add to that this oil filter was put on with far too much force. Typical oil filter tools didn’t work. It took crushing the cam with a wrench to finally break it loose.

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Thats a bummer!...I always hand tighten my toyota filters only, no tools....;)
 
That is absolutely right. But in this case we're using the turbo to maybe 20% of it's total capacity at the most taxing (and infrequent) scenarios. I think your analogy might be more like making a 150k mile component and turning it into a 400k mile component. :) Or maybe I've just had a a taste of coolaid.

For reference, factory HDJ80/HDJ81 turbo diesel have water-cooled turbo and many would see 500k km plus from the original turbo.
Diesel EGT is not as hot as a gasser, but the turbo is working for much longer, almost continuous periods, and at boost levels ranging from 5psi at a light cruise, to 10-14psi under load.
 
Replacing all of the hydraulic lines on the turbo truck. The power steering pressure line is $300ish from Toyota or $40 from Gates. Since everyone on MUD has been pleased with the Gates version I decided screw it. Only bummer part is it’s Made in Mexico. We shall see.

Just need to remove the mounting bracket from the old one. Also going to reuse the coiled plastic on the old hose instead of the split loom. It looks cheap.

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I have that Rein hose, haven’t installed it since mine ain’t leaking. I got it while sourcing parts for PS cooler & hydro boost brakes, if I go that direction.
Yeah, I went aftermarket too. Couldn’t justify $300 from Toyota either.
 
Ok admittedly I didn’t plan to go down this rabbit hole. But I needed to change spark plugs because two cylinders have bad tube seals and there was oil all over the spark plug ceramic. So now the throttle body and valve cover has been removed. Since I’ve got it open I might as well do all the vacuum hoses and rest of the emissions components.

Since it’s out I’ll have RC engineering bore and home the throttle body.

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