Wits End Turbo Owners (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter spyduh
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Well, its not installed yet, but I officially have my kit now, so I guess I am an official owner. Just had a couple questions for you guys. I have been doing tons of reading and prep, but I just had a few more things:
- I had my exhaust manifolds ceramic coated, and removed the heat shields because they were trashed. Am I good to run with out them?
- Has anyone ceramic coated any of the exhaust components, or otherwise recommend it? I saw were it was recommended to only do coating or wrap/blanket, but not both. Was just wondering if anyone had any specific thoughts on coating vs wrap/blanket.
- After reading through everything, I ordered the JRP 14-1 gauge and sensor kit today. It comes with fuel, oil pressure, water, oil, boost, IAT sensors. Also added a wideband to the order. Anyone with experience on this kit? Curious how many of those sensors will be useable with the kit as is.
I will try to dig through it and see. Yeah, that is what I was meaning. Still thinking IAT. I got a kit that was incomplete, just waiting on a few pieces. So I probably am not the guy to tell you for sure
Since it’s after the compressor, that could be for air temp sensor, but I’d speculate that bung is for water-meth injector.
Joey mentioned he planned to develop a water meth injection kit at some point. Adding a bung isn’t much additional work prior to powder coating compared to after. Also, it’s easy to plug for those that don’t plan to add kit.
IAT is already measured at MAF and available in OBDII.
In the cases when you would want post-compressor air temp, It would make most sense in an application where you are running an intercooler. You’d want Measure pre- and post- intercooler to monitor temps.
I have JRP 14-1. I only installed wideband, boost, oil temp sensor. I may order a sandwich plate to run oil pressure sensor since I have it around.
Honestly, I’ve had zero issues since installing turbo. Truck runs great so I don’t have a need for more data to monitor. One thing to keep in mind is that the kit is designed to be rather conservative and safe. If you deviate from “kit as designed” to try to increase power, then you’d definitely want to monitor temps of oil, coolant, air, fuel pressure, etc.
I went up to the 8.5 PSI springs for the waste gate. I do monitor all of the things you mentioned. No issues seen so far. Lambda never runs above 1 in open loop mode. In closed loop with the O2 sensors in command, it switches above/bellow 1 by .05 or so, as designed. When tipping into the throttle climbing hills there is a certain point that the computer switches back to open loop and keeps the mixture rich. It locks it in pretty hard at .82 Lambda;, keeping things on the rich side. This number does not creep up with RPM or throttle position changes. Drove back from Eureka yesterday to Santa Rosa, pulling lots of hills with cruise control set. Rig was loaded up with the tent, three people, gear, and three MTB's on a vertical rack on the back. I have all of the Slee bumpers, sliders, belly pan and run 37's and 4.88 gears. Several times it would shift down to 3rd on a hill and make 8 psi boost for an extended time holding 65 mph. No problems on any of the temps or the fuel mixture. This was in 90 degree weather.
I have an IAT sensor in that exact location on my 90 degree bend into the throttle body. Jethro'd that in with some washers and JB Weld. It does get rather high under boost and heavy throttle. Upwards of 180 F is not uncommon. I am waiting for Joey's meth injection kit to help address that.
I also have the larger injector / MAF kit from Landtank sitting in my garage, 10 PSI springs on the shelf, and a Supra fuel pump. That is a project for next winter,.
I also have the 14-1 kit and it's been nice. I'm using AFR, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure & Water Temp. I have alarms set on all of these parameters which would hopefully be useful. The one challenge is water temp - I have the water inlet tapped for temp and it varies minimally to significantly compared to the OBDII sensor which is in the block I think. In summer heat, just sitting at a long light, I can read 193 on the Scan Gauge and 198 on the 14 - 1.
I'm monitoring AFR vs. Lambda but seeing the same phenomenon... I don't have to press the throttle hard or climb hills to go into open loop - I can do it on flat land if I stay at a certain throttle position for long enough. It's almost as if the computer has a time on throttle and a load variable that it's using to decide when to go open loop. Like you, once I'm in open loop it really doesn't want to go closed loop again. What seems to allow the transition from open to closed loop for me is being off the throttle completely for a bit (say 5-10 seconds). This does suck as, at highway speeds, it's really tough to do this and as a result we wind up staying in open loop and burning more fuel than necessary. I postulate that this has nothing to do with the turbo but rather is also happening on non-boosted trucks... they just don't have the gauge to be aware of it.
Thanks for the input. I ordered the OBDII cord that you can run from the OBD port to the 14-1 box and it will take those readings from that system if they are available. That will help me get rid of the scanguage that I have too.
A few questions for the group
#1 Id planned to have my rebuild done 6mos ago and well broken in but....20-22 and its still out of the truck but going back together. Not sure where I am in the queue but could have a bunch of boxes around the same time its all buttoned up. What say the group on give it a 1500 mile break on vs if it's going to grenade its going to grenade, mild boost or no?
#2 EGR delete. Don't need it where I live and had P401 before I tore it all down. Planning on replacing all vac lines but really don't want to replace EGR valve just because. Any issues running without?
Thanks in advance.
#1 Id planned to have my rebuild done 6mos ago and well broken in but....20-22 and its still out of the truck but going back together. Not sure where I am in the queue but could have a bunch of boxes around the same time its all buttoned up. What say the group on give it a 1500 mile break on vs if it's going to grenade its going to grenade, mild boost or no?
#2 EGR delete. Don't need it where I live and had P401 before I tore it all down. Planning on replacing all vac lines but really don't want to replace EGR valve just because. Any issues running without?
Thanks in advance.
I am also curious on this and in a similar situation. I’ve actually got my engine back together for the most part, but was planning on breaking it in with the turbo installed. As long as I am easy on it during break-in, does anyone thing that will be an issue?
I have also deleted the EGR on the engine while it’s been out.
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My plan was to break mine in about 3000 miles. Then covid hit and I've got a solid 15,000 now on the rebuild hoping to finally install the turbo in Sept this year.
I’m not the expert here so someone with more experience can correct me.
I don’t think there would be an issue with installing turbo on a freshly rebuilt engine. However, I think the turbo could amplify the damage if anything wasn’t properly reinstalled during rebuild.
My logic: there are many cars engine that come with turbos on them. Manufacturers wouldn’t break-in the engines on cars at the plants, then add turbos. Also, engines and turbos in racing applications are frequently rebuilt.
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Personally I would do the turbo while the motor was out... then drive it modestly for a few hundred. You're going to have to do lots of little modifications (plugs, check valve, pan modification, etc.) that will be easier out of the truck than in.
I plan on doing most of it out. I got a weld in oil port a while back and it’s already installed. I’ll put a lot of the other stuff on before it goes back in
After digging through my bin I found those and used one. first start on sunday evening but didnt roll it out for a drive yet.
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I did both with cerokote and expect both to burn off after seeing what my exhaust manifolds and heat shields look like with normal EGT’s.
Good to know. I figured coating them would be close to the same cost as the blankets, and the blankets aren’t available… but hadn’t considered longevity on either option.
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