Wire loom, disintegrating before my eyes (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Threads
96
Messages
2,490
Location
LUGOFF, SC
I have been using the Autozone corrigated wire loom in various sizes for my wiring protection and projects. I have noticed that anything over 1 years old is disintegrating with alarming speed, some of it you just look at wrong and it powders.

What do the pros use? Cuz the aftermarket-parts-pusher stuff is pure crap.
 
Last edited:
I've been wondering the same thing recently. Crazy how much they charge for such a huge quality difference
 
You need something heat and oil resistant (there is no UV under the hood, or anywhere else on the truck, for that matter), prefereably something purposely designed for automotive use. I used AlexTech split loom when I rewrapped the engine harness during an 80 series headgasket R&R several years ago. It still looks new.
1759408184930.webp

There may be better products available; I grabbed that because I was in a hurry and haven't had any reason to search for anything better since.

BTW, the TESA tape is OEM. I use that before I install the sleeve.
 
I used standard vinyl electrical tape to long wrap the wires, finish the ends, and at the loom splices and that tape is holding up fine. But it's good to know the TESA is OEM. I'll pick up a couple rolls. Thanks!
@Malleus, do you do an overlapping wrap with the TESA or do you do a long pitch wrap just to hold everything before the loom? I tend to do a long pitch with the vinyl tape as that's what I've seen on most OEM applications. The reason I ask is the TESA image in the advertisement shows a full overlapping wrap, but it's being used with-out over loom so it makes sense to run it overlapping.
 
When I rewrapped the engine harness, I wrapped it the way the ladies on the line did: about 1/4 width overlap on each turn. It's in an area that's susceptible to oil contamination and the split loom only prevents abrasion damage, so it has to be sealed. Even with that, I had to spend a couple of hours cleaning the crud out of the harness, between the wires, before I could wrap it.

I also used the vinyl "sticks only to itself" tape at the ends of each split loom run. The TESA tape linked above won't stay in place there. That's also the way it was wrapped at the factory. I have to look for the brand; I can't remember the name offhand. It's also OEM, automotive grade, heat and oil resistent. For some reason, I seem to think it was Korean or Taiwanese and not Japanese, but don't quote me on that.
 
I've used the silicone self vulcanizing tape (some brand name thing). After a bunch of years (on my oz diesel patrol), the stuff turned into a nasty vulcanized goop/mess that took some work to remove. I had used it on some battery cables when I did a 24V to 12V conversion. It was great for a couple of years, but then went to mush. I'd be very hesitant to ever use it again in an engine bay. Just a heads up.

I've also stopped using electrical tape, the 'stick' turns to mush over the years too. I'm sure there's variations in performance, but my go to now is ->

The Tesa tape is good stuff, I've used it to make new custom harnesses and it is a joy to work with. No mess and a clean result and if any repairs/changes need doing, it's clean and easy to remove.

cheers,
george.
 
I use pico tubing, clamps unions, tees and polyken harness tape, better then tesa in my opinion. works awesome and holds up for a long time under the hood. The wrapping technique has a big effect too.
 
3m super 33+ and dry vinyl tape.

I use the dry tape to wrap then the 33 at the ends to secure it.

Factory harnesses use the dry tape, the lack of adhesive allows the harness to stay super flexible, not stiff and non conforming like using adhesive backed tape. It also allows easy harness maintenance and leaves no sticky goo on the wires.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Cope
Back
Top Bottom