I poured a gallon of fluid in and it immediately started leaking from behind the driver side front wheel.
Any tips on where to start looking?
Any tips on where to start looking?
Windshield Washer Fluid Leak (Solved - Caused by Fluid Film)
- Thread starter Chaldaean
- Start date
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bjowett
Supporting Vendor
The inner fender liner will need to come out for inspection. The tank is long and sits in the fender over the front wheel. Given that all the connections and hoses are near the front of the tank behind the headlight, the drainage spot suggests the tank may be cracked. With that said, fluids can flow in wierd ways, so until you have eyes on it, it's tough to say.
- Thread starter
- #3
@bjowett, thanks for the quick reply. I checked out your website, too; it's nice to find another New England resource for all things Toyota.
I'll follow your advice and just dug up this diagram to orient myself. If the tank is cracked and needs replacement, it looks like it's "Jar Assy, Windshield Washer" P/N 85315-60350 for around $80.
I'll follow your advice and just dug up this diagram to orient myself. If the tank is cracked and needs replacement, it looks like it's "Jar Assy, Windshield Washer" P/N 85315-60350 for around $80.
First, check all the hose connections, particularly low where it they plug into the reservoir. My sons Corolla did this exact thing (wasted a gallon of fluid) as it turned out the hose became disconnected from the reservoir at the pump. Sometimes the simplest fix is the solution.
I doubt a 2011 could have cracked unless there was prior accident damage (or the fluid froze and was nearly full)--those tanks are fairly stout.
I doubt a 2011 could have cracked unless there was prior accident damage (or the fluid froze and was nearly full)--those tanks are fairly stout.
Check the headlight washers. They have seals that can apparently dry out. I’ve been told that lubricating those seals was required to stop the leak on mine.
The body shop working on mine took off the bumper cover and left front fender to work on it. YMMV.
The body shop working on mine took off the bumper cover and left front fender to work on it. YMMV.
I have a feeling it is right where you pour the fluid in. there is only a plastic insert to hold that plastic elbow in place and it will come loose if you put too much weight on it.
- Thread starter
- #8
I opened it up today and fixed the issue. One of the hoses had come off of the barb connector.
I believe I know the root cause.
A few months ago, I installed a Slee primary battery tray upgrade kit to accommodate a larger battery. This requires that front portion of the fender skirting be removed; I left the other (rear) half in place. While I was in there, I thought it would be a good idea to spray some "Fluid Film" rust inhibitor on behind the fender skirting. I sprayed it blindly into the cavity between the rear fender skirting and the engine compartment. Some Fluid Film sprayed directly onto the washer hose. Looking at Fluid Film's website, it says "Care should be taken around non oil resistant rubber goods. May cause swelling.". Sure enough, it looks like the washer hose swelled/expanded and lost it's grip on the barb. I cut off the swollen section, added a zip tie and taped up the joint. So, I guess I'll be more careful spraying Fluid Film around rubber parts.
Below: Disconnected hose. Fluid Film on the hose and paint.
Below: After zip ties and tape.
Below: This was the only part of the process that wasn't clear. These square-shank inserts that accept the torx head screws must be pushed out from the back before the fender skirting can be removed. There are two corners that need to be squeezed together before pushing them out from the back. There are two of these.
I believe I know the root cause.
A few months ago, I installed a Slee primary battery tray upgrade kit to accommodate a larger battery. This requires that front portion of the fender skirting be removed; I left the other (rear) half in place. While I was in there, I thought it would be a good idea to spray some "Fluid Film" rust inhibitor on behind the fender skirting. I sprayed it blindly into the cavity between the rear fender skirting and the engine compartment. Some Fluid Film sprayed directly onto the washer hose. Looking at Fluid Film's website, it says "Care should be taken around non oil resistant rubber goods. May cause swelling.". Sure enough, it looks like the washer hose swelled/expanded and lost it's grip on the barb. I cut off the swollen section, added a zip tie and taped up the joint. So, I guess I'll be more careful spraying Fluid Film around rubber parts.
Below: Disconnected hose. Fluid Film on the hose and paint.
Below: After zip ties and tape.
Below: This was the only part of the process that wasn't clear. These square-shank inserts that accept the torx head screws must be pushed out from the back before the fender skirting can be removed. There are two corners that need to be squeezed together before pushing them out from the back. There are two of these.
Exactly as i suspected.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Interesting.
The most I really know of fluid film is that when doing installs, some trucks are covered in it, and it leaves me and Chip with chemical burns on our arms for a few days. But those frames still have rust everywhere.
The most I really know of fluid film is that when doing installs, some trucks are covered in it, and it leaves me and Chip with chemical burns on our arms for a few days. But those frames still have rust everywhere.
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Are you sure it is Fluid Film? Weird it would burn you as it is meant to be lanolin based. I've never experienced this. Also it isn't meant to convert the rust so any rusty frames are still rusty.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I’m just going off of what the customers tell me, so it very well could be something else. This has happened a little over 20 times last year.
One a few newer 200, I was told from the owner that it’s been fluid filmed since day one. I wasn’t impressed.
any of my trucks that lived in winter rust regions just got mechanically removed and covered with enamel. All my frames look as good as day one. So I’ve just never really seen the benefit personally.
That said, there is a lot of things a thought LT test the crap out of. Fluid film is not one of them, so my option is just that, and opinion.
I believe @linuxgod has a lot of good experience with that product, and I’d like him to weight in on it also.
I use it on my 200s and my 80
Now using wool wax. I apply it myself and have at times been covered with it and never had any “chemical burns”. I have been in contact with it when applying and working on my truck
First learned of fluid film from a tractor service shop where they used it for years
I have been using it for probably at least 10 years. My 80 undercarriage is probably the cleanest in Maine that is used in the winter
My 200s are clean as when I got them. I used it on my 100 and my 470 and they had rust to start as I bought them used but it stopped the rust at the stage it was at.
I have never had any issue with anything rubber or otherwise
It has been used since the 40s when it was used by the navy to coat ballast tanks that were filled with saltwater so I suspect if it was caustic there would be some clear literature around it. Everything I can find seems to indicate it is about as benign as it comes.
The independent garage I use when needed offered me a job doing their vehicles (personal and ones they sell) when they saw my undercarriage when doing a state inspection as they were amazed with the coating and lack of rust for its heavy use in the winter and age
YMMV
John
Now using wool wax. I apply it myself and have at times been covered with it and never had any “chemical burns”. I have been in contact with it when applying and working on my truck
First learned of fluid film from a tractor service shop where they used it for years
I have been using it for probably at least 10 years. My 80 undercarriage is probably the cleanest in Maine that is used in the winter
My 200s are clean as when I got them. I used it on my 100 and my 470 and they had rust to start as I bought them used but it stopped the rust at the stage it was at.
I have never had any issue with anything rubber or otherwise
It has been used since the 40s when it was used by the navy to coat ballast tanks that were filled with saltwater so I suspect if it was caustic there would be some clear literature around it. Everything I can find seems to indicate it is about as benign as it comes.
The independent garage I use when needed offered me a job doing their vehicles (personal and ones they sell) when they saw my undercarriage when doing a state inspection as they were amazed with the coating and lack of rust for its heavy use in the winter and age
YMMV
John
Yep I use it. It's helped stave off the rust here in Chicago. Spray the undercarriage, nuts, and bolts in November, and it's still a greasy mess in the spring. The first few years I had a local mudder spray mine, but this year I was out of the country and ended up just buying a few rattle cans of the stuff and hitting what I could lying on my back in my driveway at the time. He definitely did a much better job, but something is better than nothing.
That said FF will wear off, and it disappears faster in the areas most exposed to a continuous spray of water (like the area near the mudflaps). It also doesn't repair rust, it just puts an oily coating on everything which slows/halts the process because anything you spray it on is no longer exposed to air.
FF won't give you a chemical burn, unless whoever is spraying the stuff is mixing it with something else first. It's lanolin, made from sheep oil (wool wax)... same stuff my wife rubs on her chapped hands. Smells slightly sweet, and drives my old english sheepdog nuts (go figure). That said it's possible you're allergic to lanolin.
FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I'm going to get scheduled for my 2nd Fluid Film treatment hopefully in a few weeks. I'd like to have the fenders sprayed from within the engine compartment but I'm reluctant to do that for fear of wetting those hoses. Last year I just skipped doing the front fenders altogether due to this.
I'd really like to have the fenders treated but I'm having trouble getting a sense of where these hoses run. Are there any suggestions that could be given for applying Fluid Film so that the washer hoses aren't soaked in Fluid Film?
I'd really like to have the fenders treated but I'm having trouble getting a sense of where these hoses run. Are there any suggestions that could be given for applying Fluid Film so that the washer hoses aren't soaked in Fluid Film?
I’m a little late to the conversation, but better late than never. I use Fluid Film on all of my cars, especially my LC. I coat it pretty heavy in the fall, inside the frame rails, door panels, tail gates, etc. It’s worked wonderfully. I live in Cleveland, we don’t get snow like we used to, but still plenty of salt and brine on the roads. Recently I read about a product from Blaster called Surface Shield. It’s lanolin based like Fluid Film and Woolwax, but lasts 2 years. I use it in the high spray areas - the front of the diffs, behind the tires, etc. It’s worked very very well and doesn’t rinse off.
