SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
Looks like I am good to go then as I don't have the springs on the pedal correct? From googling it seems the pedal assist is mounted to the clutch pedal arm hence the interference.
Window Rocket - who’s tried it? (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter FIDO96
- Start date
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That looks very similar to the pedal I have. To be safe, if you measure horizontally from the top edge of the ABS computer to the nearest part of the clutch pedal you will need 1-3/4" minimum. The Window Rocket will be 1-5/8" from the ABS computer surface.
I tried installing the window rocket with the included 12mm standoffs positioned to offset both the ABS computer and the window rocket away from the clutch pedal, but there is a trunk of the wiring harness back there that says nope to the ABS computer moving any further back from where it is.
Still showing 375.00 on the website. Is there a discount code or something I am missing?Window Rockets are in stock. This Window Rocket fits LHD and RHD 80 series made with ABS brakes. Final assembly has been streamlined. Trimmed some labor here and there. Lowered some of the parts costs with higher volumes.
The new price is $265
Probably still too much for some of you cheapskates.
Later this month (2-3 weeks from now) there will be Window rockets for FJ80's and RHD 80 series without ABS. The mounts are prototyped. Some revisions will be made and production will start in about a week.
Thanks for all the support!
The price is $265 USD.
$265 USD, not CAD.
Window Rocket express International shipping is live as of Friday for Canada, Australia, NZ and most of Europe. If your country is not listed for shipping please contact me here or through the website and I will enable shipping to your country.
LHD non-ABS Window rockets should be ready before the beginning of September. RHD non-ABS kits will be test fit in (hopefully) their final revision later this week. They will be for sale a week after that.
LHD non-ABS Window rockets should be ready before the beginning of September. RHD non-ABS kits will be test fit in (hopefully) their final revision later this week. They will be for sale a week after that.
any thoughts about small batch buys for us aussies to try and reduce costs/postage etc?
I'm open to new things. What are you suggesting?
The biggest barrier to reducing the price to Australia is the 1.6:1 exchange rate. That's a little out of my control.
I've shipped a handful of these to Great Britain and they pay $199 as their exchange rate is the other way.
mmm you're right.. even small batches become challenging, because we pay GST on imports above $1000AUD, so that's going to be on 3 or more units.
This wont really allow us to save much on shipping either only doing 2 units at a time. Unless the value of goods was marked lower..
Sorry mate, it was a fleeting thought, now after further consideration, I'm not sure what could be done, other than to suck it up and pay the $$. At least if 2 of us over here lived nearby and wanted to split the postage cost, I don't see any other alternatives, unless someone else has any suggestions.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
@petegangies, I'm planning on opeing my motors up, cleanign them out and regrasing them, just for the sake of saying I did it. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I wouldn't buy this one, though. Apparently, "expiraiton date" doesn't mean much in Japan.
I wouldn't buy this one, though. Apparently, "expiraiton date" doesn't mean much in Japan.
Great! Cant wait to hear how it turns out. Any pics or videos along the way would be awesome too haha.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Curiously, if this is what Toyota used (or had used by the OEM supplier) in the original motors, and it only has a shelf life of three years, (mine was made in 05OCT2022 and expires in 20SEP2027) you have to wonder how the motors work at all after 30 years.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I'm on it.
I'm going to try the Super Lube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon Multi Purpose Lubricant 21030
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Apologies for hijacking the "Window Rocket" thread. I still may do this, but not in my DD, even after I replace the window runs and regrease the motors.
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
I am so paranoid about electrical stuff and my precious 80. Is the increased voltage a concern for overloading anything? It makes me wonder why the factory didn't make it come this way from the start. Toyota doesn't make ANY mistakes! HAHAH.
We need to talk about the difference between voltage and current and their relationship with resistance.
When you push your power window button the electrons flow through the wires. That electricity makes the motor turn, but also makes heat throughout the circuit.
The window motor has a set job to do. It has a fairly fixed load moving the window up and down.
If you power that motor with 10VDC it's going to use a lot of current to move that fixed load. If your windows are slow a big part of that is because they want more current than the wiring can provide to do the job.
If you power the same motor at the same load with 14VDC the motor needs 30% less current to do the exact same work.
Less current flowing through the wires means the wires are generating less heat. The resistance of the wires doesn't act directly on the voltage, it resists the current. When the voltage getting to the motors drops it's the consequence of the cumulative resistance throughout the power window circuit choking off the current available to the motors.
Make sense so far?
There's not a whole lot we can reasonably do to lower the resistance in the power window wiring. All we can really do is replace the undersize power window relay.
So we do that and now the windows can get a bit more current. But the windows are still slow. We made maybe a 5% improvement and we're still forcing the window motors to run on a less than ideal voltage.
By raising the voltage we're counteracting all the resistance in the power window wiring. All the plugs, crimps and switch contacts that aren't perfect after 30 years. Raising that voltage up means the motor uses less current to do the same job.
Additionally, and this is a big one, the actual load on the window motor drops dramatically when window speed reaches a certain threshold. This threshold has everything to do with how the window seals act on the glass. I believe Toyota engineers either overlooked this relationship or misunderstood it when they designed the 80 series window system. I suspect they believed slower would last longer. And I believe they failed to account for how the system would age in time.
So I need you guys to understand that while the windows are going faster, the Window Rocket is not doing it by working the system harder. All the wiring in the window circuit has a much easier time running with the Window Rocket VS without. The wiring is dealing with much less current, less heat is generated. The physical load on the window regulators and motors is LOWER when they are going faster because of how the window seals grip the glass at low speed.
You don't need to take my word for it. Look at the window speed of every vehicle made in the past 2 decades, including every Toyota.
I have no plans to add a rheostat to change the window speed. The fastest it can possibly be is the same as every modern vehicle. It is not too fast.
When you push your power window button the electrons flow through the wires. That electricity makes the motor turn, but also makes heat throughout the circuit.
The window motor has a set job to do. It has a fairly fixed load moving the window up and down.
If you power that motor with 10VDC it's going to use a lot of current to move that fixed load. If your windows are slow a big part of that is because they want more current than the wiring can provide to do the job.
If you power the same motor at the same load with 14VDC the motor needs 30% less current to do the exact same work.
Less current flowing through the wires means the wires are generating less heat. The resistance of the wires doesn't act directly on the voltage, it resists the current. When the voltage getting to the motors drops it's the consequence of the cumulative resistance throughout the power window circuit choking off the current available to the motors.
Make sense so far?
There's not a whole lot we can reasonably do to lower the resistance in the power window wiring. All we can really do is replace the undersize power window relay.
So we do that and now the windows can get a bit more current. But the windows are still slow. We made maybe a 5% improvement and we're still forcing the window motors to run on a less than ideal voltage.
By raising the voltage we're counteracting all the resistance in the power window wiring. All the plugs, crimps and switch contacts that aren't perfect after 30 years. Raising that voltage up means the motor uses less current to do the same job.
Additionally, and this is a big one, the actual load on the window motor drops dramatically when window speed reaches a certain threshold. This threshold has everything to do with how the window seals act on the glass. I believe Toyota engineers either overlooked this relationship or misunderstood it when they designed the 80 series window system. I suspect they believed slower would last longer. And I believe they failed to account for how the system would age in time.
So I need you guys to understand that while the windows are going faster, the Window Rocket is not doing it by working the system harder. All the wiring in the window circuit has a much easier time running with the Window Rocket VS without. The wiring is dealing with much less current, less heat is generated. The physical load on the window regulators and motors is LOWER when they are going faster because of how the window seals grip the glass at low speed.
You don't need to take my word for it. Look at the window speed of every vehicle made in the past 2 decades, including every Toyota.
I have no plans to add a rheostat to change the window speed. The fastest it can possibly be is the same as every modern vehicle. It is not too fast.
