wind deflector woes

davenm · Dec 4, 2012

Half of my brain wants me to go out and pull off my spoiler to check for rust, the other half says leave well enough alone.

Kernal · Dec 4, 2012

IMO if removing and replacing the dust deflector it is important is to use a flexible thread sealant on the nutsert screw threads and on the top of the nutserts before the deflector is put back in place. I also removed and did not replace the thin foam pad that sits between the mounting bracket and sheet metal. IMHO for that location the foam pad appears to promote rust by absorbing water and holding it against the nutsert/sheetmetal connection at the lower nutsert.

western flyer · Dec 5, 2012

davenm said:
Half of my brain wants me to go out and pull off my spoiler to check for rust, the other half says leave well enough alone.

I think you should look. I am glad I did.

western flyer · Dec 5, 2012

Kernal said:
IMO if removing and replacing the dust deflector it is important is to use a flexible thread sealant on the nutsert screw threads and on the top of the nutserts before the deflector is put back in place. I also removed and did not replace the thin foam pad that sits between the mounting bracket and sheet metal. IMHO for that location the foam pad appears to promote rust by absorbing water and holding it against the nutsert/sheetmetal connection at the lower nutsert.

Excellent points. ^^^

On the deflector I used Permatex threadlocker (essentially Loctite) as a sealer on all the (new stainless) hardware, Permathane on the nutserts and body, and butyl rubber as my "pad." I am still not sure about the butyl rubber being the right choice for a pad (though it has not moved in the several months it has been on there). Butyl rubber is a common sealer for mounting RV windows and fixtures.

Later, on the (removed) roof rack, I used a 3M thread sealer (not a threadlocker) on all the (new stainless) hardware with Permathane as a general sealer.

With the above, combined with the cleaned up rust and Rust Bullet paint, I am confident that I stopped the rust.

I really hate rust....

western flyer · Dec 5, 2012

Old Fort said:
I can sure appreciate that. Still, I gotta believe that with a properly thought-out installation, such as your write-up, the rust problems would be a long time in manifesting themselves. And I have thought that the one installed on my 100 does serve a purpose in that it seems to blow a lot of dust off the liftgate window, especially when I get back up on the highway heading home.

Thanks for your help.

You are welcome.

Go for it: I feel like after a few decades of dealing with rust that I finally have a bit of a handle on it. I bet if you used similar coatings, sealers, and hardware to what was suggested herein you will be fine. My old deflector and towers looked pretty nice after I painted them.

I think the major issues associated with the port-installed deflectors are:
a) the pads and towers trapping water;
b) the mounting hardware rusting over time;
c) the sealers used breaking down over time and letting in water to the nutserts and drilled body sheet metal.

08720 · Dec 6, 2012

Thanks Western for the write-up. I recently took mine off as I like the look (glad I did as I had the opportunity to clean up the rust). However, I am now putting it back on as I now notice how much of a benefit it is for visibility. My wife's old Xterra and now her new 4Runner collect so much more rain "mist" and dirt than my 80 with the spoiler.

Makelo · Feb 27, 2013

Just wondering if you removed the roof rack and if you remember the size bolts and rivnuts? Where they the same size as the rear spoiler (size 5M) or 6M?
I want to install a OEM roof rack that I have in my garage but don't know the size bolts and rivnuts I will need for the install
Thank you

western flyer · Feb 28, 2013

You are likely going to have a bunch of us suggest not installing an OEM roof rack due to the high potential for it causing rust to form on your roof. If you need a roof rack, I can suggest using an aftermarket rack that uses the rain gutters, such as Thule or Yakima. I install my Thule or Confer rack only when I need either one, the rest of the time I am rack-less.

IIRC correctly, all the rack and deflector hardware was M5. Somebody on here can confirm.

If you do install the OEM rack, I suggest you do your homework on sealers. And use the methods noted for keeping the metal shavings from drilling the front nutsert holes out of the sunroof tracks (assuming you have a sunroof).

Cheers, Jon

mtkreitz · Jul 29, 2020

Does anyone know if you can still get replacement adhesive pads for the mounting towers? I looked on Partsouq and could not find the part number.

I had rust under one that necessitated the removal of the pad. Now I am trying to find something suitable to replace it with.

Kernal · Jul 29, 2020

The pad are not designed to hold the mounting brackets to the wind/dust deflector, they're more of a cosmetic gap filler IMO. What holds the Port installed mounts to the hatch are nutserts that were installed into the sheet metal. The thin sheet of foam between the mount and the hatch ends up acting like a sponge that keeps that area wet around the nutserts which then promotes rust.

Double sided 3M tape could probably be used in lieu of the nutserts but
you'd want to remove/treat all the rust and paint first of course.

After I fixed the rust on my hatch (under the mounts) I left that sheet of foam out, now there's just a slight air gap where the foam sheet used to be (see photo below).

The irregular surface under the mount is from some JB Weld I used to repair the metal. Eight years later, still looking good.

Here's a link to that old thread:

Check under your rear wind deflector mounts for rust

Noticed a few months ago some rust starting to peek out from under the mounting brackets for the rear wind deflector so this evening decided to pull the deflector off and take a look. When removing the deflector I first removed the wing from the mounts, two #2 Phillips screws on each side...

forum.ih8mud.com

mtkreitz · Jul 30, 2020

I took the advise of this thread and ordered some adhesive silicon rubber sheets (2mm thick) that can be cut to size instead of neoprene. While neoprene is waterproof, I think it would trap water unlike silicon. I will post up some photos after I cut them.

Amazon product ASIN B01K7JFXAA