Winch Restoration

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Some pictures of the new bearings. Any recommendations on pulling the old race and bearing? Cut it off carefully or pull it?

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Got my parts back from the media blaster today. One thing i love is working with clean parts. One thing I hate is finding surprises when I get parts back. @kevos37 you were right, check out the pictures. Didn't see this under all the paint. I am going to visit the the welder tomorrow to see if this is fixable and if so, for how much. If too much, my restoration project might be over.

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As your welder knows heat it up prior to brazing/welding or it could cause more cracks.
 
It is far enough away, I would not worry about it. I would not feel comfortable removing and reinstalling it. But if your welder foresees a problem, remove it. If there is a problem, A good machinist given the proper tolerances can reproduce one.
 
Sorry, I'm on my phone and I thought you were still talking about the feet cracks..lol. I would slide that bushing out of there during repair.
 
Been weighing out the pros and cons of how to fix the footing cracks and also the ones around the seal. I think I’m going to have the footing cracks brazed and then use JB around the seal cracks pictured below. I’m simply worried about messing with the bushing to fix something that is mostly cosmetic. Of course I would use the old formula of JB the right way and prep the cracks so they don’t spread. I believe this will give it plenty of strength without jeopardizing the bushing. Once that is done, I will push a seal in to ensure it sits perfectly.

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Maybe a silly question but should I use a press to take this bushing out before he applies a lot of heat to the area? This bushing is NLA.


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you want to fix it right, the first thing you better do is drill a small hole at either end if the crack, this will stop it from traveling further.
for the brazing part only use Everdure Bronze rod and if your luckey enough to find someone who is a Damn good welder he can use his TIG skills with that Everdure to fill the cracks, leave the holes, the Gasketsinch you put in the seal hole will work for them, and yes it is cast iron and if he has worked with it before he knows what I am talking about. If that bushing is Oillite Bronze it will bleed like Hell when you heat it up, give it a good coat of the 90 wt your going to fill the box up with when you reassemble. I drilled a oil hole in the other end bushing and fitted it with a plastic plug and renove it now and then to drop in some 90 wt,
I WOULD DEFINATLY ADD THOSE GUSSETS TO YOUR FRONT AND REAR REAL HOUSINGS your mounts are already hurtin so why take chances ??? good luck with your efforts, take your time and do it Right !!!
 
Happy to see you undertake this project buddy. Am curious what John ( @Living in the Past) would think of the minimum fixes would be to have an operable, reasonably reliable winch without a lot of brain damage.
 
Happy to see you undertake this project buddy. Am curious what John ( @Living in the Past) would think of the minimum fixes would be to have an operable, reasonably reliable winch without a lot of brain damage.

I agree. There are probably a million things I could do to make it perfect but at what cost? Know what I mean. For example, I just special ordered two m12-1.5x170 bolts for the pins and had them clear zinc plated to match the rest of the JIS hardware. Whoever buys this will appreciate it though, thats for sure.
 
Been painting a lot of parts lately. Started taping off the spindle and decided on taping off the flat surface where the pad rubs against. Just seems silly to paint that surface knowing it will get scratched up pretty badly.

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Some special order hardware arrived today from Bell Metric. I like that company, they have great service. I wanted zinc plated 10.9 bolts in an uncommon size but could only find them in black and I know those rust. They went the extra mile and zinc plated them for me. Also found these 1/2 thickness nuts for the rollers. Slowly but surely this is coming together. Still lots to do though.

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