Tapage said:
they put out a little under what a 2f does, although your right, it's higher in the rev range.
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they put out a little under what a 2f does, although your right, it's higher in the rev range.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
bad_religion_au said:
I suppose that .. and just wondering about the gearing that ou must need to place in your diff ( or t-case ) to keep the engine happy and your speed under control ..
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- #43
bad_religion_au said:
After visiting the local 4wd wrecker today and finding a complete lack of coiled Toyota housings I think I will try to link some Hilux axles. This should be a lot cheaper option too, rather than the more desirable coiled housings.
I'm not a fan of GQ's in general, but I don't want the diffs as they are over rated for strength and way too heavy and the pumpkin is way to big. After seeing the lighter rigs have no problems with their diffs and the heavier rigs (GQ's) have numerous failures I think a well built light axle will be all I need. A set of air lockers and some longfields or haultech CVs and I shouldn't have too many problems, I don't think. Lawrie Sternbeck said that his CV's were the same ones he used at the OBC in may and he has had no dramas with them at all. Piglet uses the Hilux axles as well in his Daihatsu. The mate I went the last round with had a GQ and he broke three CV's in three stages. Another GQ driver broke five CV's for the weekend.
AFAIK I've heard that the Toyota, Nissan and Rover CV's are all the same size balls and cages inside and it is just the outer bell that is thicker on the Nissans but the Nissans have thicker axles so the inner spider the balls run on is thinner. Most of the GQ CV failures I've seen have been the inner spider splitting and causing the inner spline to slip and destroy the axle as well. Most of the Nissan guys are starting to go to GU axles but they have thicker axles again. The Toyotas usually fail around the outer bell, this is why the longfields have the extra welded on ring.
From what I've heard about the Hilux crownwheel failures is that it is caused by the standard hemisphere flexing, by replacing it with an air locker this flexing is removed making a far stronger diff. I think it also depends on what ratio you are running as far as strength of the R & P goes.
Thanks for your replies bad_religion_au.
It keeps me thinking about the best options for the project.
Jonathan_Ferguson
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Daihatsu Truck with Hilux Axles does sound good.
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- #45
Tapage said:
This was why I wanted an auto, to be able to control the speed a little bit better. Although if I end up fitting a manual I'll need to look at gearing reduction a bit more. The Land Rover T/case has a low range of around 4:1 so this is pretty good anyway for starters. I think the Rangie has 3.5:1 diffs standard so if I use Hilux diffs I can go 4.875:1 or 5.29:1.
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- #46
Jonathan_Ferguson said:Daihatsu Truck with Hilux Axles does sound good.
This is what Piglet is running so I know it works.
yep the rover case and some high 4.something lux diffs will see your low range being very sweet. i got no idea about hilux diff failure, i just know a few guys in the club have issues with them... and they're airlocked
but they are on hilux's, so the lighter dihatsu will be prime.
if i were building a hardcore axle with common cv;s i'd go toyota, there are heaps more upgrades (i.e. longfields) and with the nissan gear, they're finding the stub shaft thickness is the biggest weakness, and there is no easy fix to that.
linking some leaf diffs is the way to go. i doubt you'd want to keep much of the factory geometry of a coil diff anyway... so go for cheaper.
looks like i agree with your final plan
but they are on hilux's, so the lighter dihatsu will be prime.
if i were building a hardcore axle with common cv;s i'd go toyota, there are heaps more upgrades (i.e. longfields) and with the nissan gear, they're finding the stub shaft thickness is the biggest weakness, and there is no easy fix to that.
linking some leaf diffs is the way to go. i doubt you'd want to keep much of the factory geometry of a coil diff anyway... so go for cheaper.
looks like i agree with your final plan
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
bad_religion_au said:
I thought is a very pretty nice option .. never know about the rover t-case ( i'm not a rover fan ) but 4:1 sounds great .. with 4.88 as standard gearing in much Hi Lux ( 2L and 2LT ) optiones .. you are done ..
Done for movinf pretty well 33" or 35" tires with auto tranny ..
the rover cases are closer to 3.5:1, and stronger than most toy options if you upgrade the center shaft in the center diff lock.
So did you get a rangie auto with the V8 motors? I don't think they have the best reputation (reliability) but gut feeling is it might hold up alright in a lightweight rig. If you got one already and Auto is the way your going whack it in and if it s**ts itself then it s**ts itself!
Great project!
Lup
Great project!
Lup
from my experience talking to rover guys and guys that use them in buggies, the auto and t case from the rangie is beefy as. most rangie issues are wiring, or poor build quality related, not basic drivetrain failure (well except axles)
Hehe, x2 on the wiring! Definately their biggest problem, lol.
My experience is pretty limited to two friends that have had rangies and both have had transmission probs - however, it may just be luck (or bad luck), of the draw with theirs. Every rig breaks something sooner or later....apart from cruisers! I just love to rag on rangies cos my mate has twice as many probs as me and i let him know about it! All good fun (except for his wallet!)
Lup
My experience is pretty limited to two friends that have had rangies and both have had transmission probs - however, it may just be luck (or bad luck), of the draw with theirs. Every rig breaks something sooner or later....apart from cruisers! I just love to rag on rangies cos my mate has twice as many probs as me and i let him know about it! All good fun (except for his wallet!)
Lup
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- #53
Lupdog said:So did you get a rangie auto with the V8 motors? I don't think they have the best reputation (reliability) but gut feeling is it might hold up alright in a lightweight rig. If you got one already and Auto is the way your going whack it in and if it s**ts itself then it s**ts itself!
Great project!
Lup
I wish I got the auto!
I got the R380 G/box which is a 5-speed manual. It is the manual box that normally bolts to the LT230 T/case that I want to use. If I can't find a auto I'll rebuild the R380 and use it. Hopefully I'll be able to find somebody wrecking a Disco or Rangie and get an auto and a LT230.
The early Land Rover stuff had strength problems but most of the later stuff is pretty good.
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- #54
bad_religion_au said:
I used to work at a Land Rover Hire 4x4 place, maintaining the fleet. I agree their biggest problems are their build quality (they don't have any) and their wiring (Lucas- Prince of Darkness).
Because the 3.5L I bought have twin carbs I might look at fitting EFI off of a later 3.9L. Apparently the electrics for the 3.9L EFI are **** but I have heard of a DIY aftermarket computer that you can upgrade the system with. IIRC it is called a "Mega Pulse" system (or something similar) and it only costs something like $200. You have to build the computer PCB yourself but they reckon it's not too hard. IIRC there is a large thread on the subject somewhere on Outers in the Rover section.
i've heard of guys using the megasquirt to do EFI on a 2f as well. any reason you won't run lpg? it's cheap, runs on angles, sealed tank (no fuel worries on really bad side angles/ rollovers, and keeps it simple, no computers etc to kill.
just my personal preference
just my personal preference
bad_religion_au said:
Just a thought. LPG is a good option, so much simpler though you cant refuel with a jerry can!
If you do think of LPG option talk to andrewfarmer here on mud. Runs a rediculously worked 2f 40 on gas and I think he does a bit of comp stuff in NZ.
Lup
Lupdog said:
no but you can run it off a 9kg barbeque bottle
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- #58
bad_religion_au said:
LPG is also an option that I had thought of. It is something I should look into further. A mechanic in town I used to work for does a lot of LPG work, he would be the one to talk to. His XY Falcon runs a 351 on straight LPG and does 11sec 1/4 miles.
It would definitly be cheaper than EFI. The advantages offroad, with the angles and rollovers, would definitely benefit my design goals with this project too.
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- #59
Project Update.
It looks like I have sold the original DG motor and my F20 G/box and T/case. This past weekend I had a few family commitments but I still managed to remove the old DG from the Ute and tidy the shed up a bit to fit the Ute inside the shed rather than outside in the weather and the green ants nests.
Gee I've got a lot of **** to clean out. Next weekend I'm going to get a small garden shed from Bunnings to store all the **** to make enough room.
I've been talking to a couple of local "experts" about the project and have found a couple that might be able to help me out with parts for the right price so that will help out. The Land Rover Guru reckons my R380 gearbox might not be suitable for the project so I might sell it and try to get an auto and LT230. He reckons the 727 auto would probably be better than the later box too.
Once the Ute is inside the shed it will be time for a trial fit of the V8 to confirm if it will actually fit in the engine bay. I'll have to rely on measurements of the auto and T/case until I can find one. I can always give it a body lift or make a new tunnel if it doesn't clear underneath.
It looks like I have sold the original DG motor and my F20 G/box and T/case. This past weekend I had a few family commitments but I still managed to remove the old DG from the Ute and tidy the shed up a bit to fit the Ute inside the shed rather than outside in the weather and the green ants nests.
Gee I've got a lot of **** to clean out. Next weekend I'm going to get a small garden shed from Bunnings to store all the **** to make enough room.
I've been talking to a couple of local "experts" about the project and have found a couple that might be able to help me out with parts for the right price so that will help out. The Land Rover Guru reckons my R380 gearbox might not be suitable for the project so I might sell it and try to get an auto and LT230. He reckons the 727 auto would probably be better than the later box too.
Once the Ute is inside the shed it will be time for a trial fit of the V8 to confirm if it will actually fit in the engine bay. I'll have to rely on measurements of the auto and T/case until I can find one. I can always give it a body lift or make a new tunnel if it doesn't clear underneath.
- Thread starter
- #60
BTW, who else saw the cool lime green Daihatsu Rocky Ute in the latest Australian 4wd Monthly.
I'll try to find some pics online to link to but until then a brief description. Nissan Infiniti 4.5L V8, GQ auto and T/case and GQ diffs, 40 x 13.5 x 17 Maxxis Creepy Crawlers.
Similar to my project but he's running heaps bigger tyres than I plan to and way more horsepower. I still think the Hilux axles will do the job for me.
I'll try to find some pics online to link to but until then a brief description. Nissan Infiniti 4.5L V8, GQ auto and T/case and GQ diffs, 40 x 13.5 x 17 Maxxis Creepy Crawlers.
Similar to my project but he's running heaps bigger tyres than I plan to and way more horsepower. I still think the Hilux axles will do the job for me.
