Will a fj60 Drag link TRE (21mm x 1.5) fit an FJ40 taper for Pass TRE (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 4, 2011
Threads
26
Messages
72
Hello can anyone tell me if a "drag link/ relay rod" 21mm TRE from an FJ60 will fit the taper in the stock FJ40 passenger side TRE hole? Of will a stock 21mm FJ40 TRE taper do the same? I want to beefin up my drag link and get rid of the 17mm TREs for the Drag link.
I understand the drag link TREs have a better angle than the wheel TREs.
 
I believe all the fj40 tapers are smaller than fj60's, regardless of their locations.
 
Search @matzell Lynchburg lemonade build
He built a beefy tie rod and drag link using DOM and mini truck parts. Not sure if his steering arms are large or small pattern..
 
Hello can anyone tell me if a "drag link/ relay rod" 21mm TRE from an FJ60 will fit the taper in the stock FJ40 passenger side TRE hole? Of will a stock 21mm FJ40 TRE taper do the same? I want to beefin up my drag link and get rid of the 17mm TREs for the Drag link.
I understand the drag link TREs have a better angle than the wheel TREs.
As stated above, the 40 stuff is smaller than the 60/80 or mini truck stuff. 60/mini are the same 21mm thread while the 80 is 23mm. They all share the same taper, being larger than 40 stuff.
 
Thanks, my problem is that i do not want to take on the project and $ of swapping mini or 60 knuckles at the moment. I just want to strengthen my draglink (bc i have a sag with j20 TRE at pitman arm) so i will need to use dom and weld in a bung for the J20 TRE on pitman side and a 17mm x 1.5 bung on the other. The problems I am having is finding a weld in bung to fit the 17mm TRE where it will fit through the stock Tie Rod.
I know early cannot be bored out to fit larger TRE due to lack of metal
P.s. is there a different way to search mud other than the upper right search tab? I cant seem to search the correct terms
 
Thanks, my problem is that i do not want to take on the project and $ of swapping mini or 60 knuckles at the moment. I just want to strengthen my draglink (bc i have a sag with j20 TRE at pitman arm) so i will need to use dom and weld in a bung for the J20 TRE on pitman side and a 17mm x 1.5 bung on the other. The problems I am having is finding a weld in bung to fit the 17mm TRE where it will fit through the stock Tie Rod.
I know early cannot be bored out to fit larger TRE due to lack of metal
P.s. is there a different way to search mud other than the upper right search tab? I cant seem to search the correct terms
Google works better some times but usually pulls up MUD!
 
haha it usually does for me. At least is doesn't just pull up my posts
 
I think the 40 tre will fit the pass side tre taper hole tor the drag link and is 21mm. Couldn't you cut down a 40 stk tie rod to length and tap the pitman arm end to SAE threads. Also Cruiser Outfitters sells power steering conversion drag linKS w/metric and sae threads. He also sells the pitman arm at various drops and coresponding tre for the pitman arm. Just throwing out ideas.
 
Last edited:
I build weld in pieces but only for the 21 and 23mm. The 17mm, for me, is not only a waste of resources like taps,
building for the 40 tapers seems like a waste since it's not truly a strength upgrade where swapping 40 to 60
ends is a definite upgrade. Finding quality 17mm x 1.5 taps in left and right is a hard search. I had to have Greenfield
or Morse do custom orders. A high end tap like that might cost 120.00 or more and with DOM you might get a few dozen holes
but you also might have it fail in four. Whether the DOM is normalized or work hardened has a big influence on tap life.
It's easier to make weld in bungs from highly machinable but very strong metals like ETD150. Machinists actually
enjoy working with that. 1020 and 1026 DOM doesn't machine as well and isn't as strong as ETD. Though you'll still be
putting the bungs into DOM , the threaded areas will be stronger with ETD. The issue with threading smaller holes like the 17mm
is when using the threading bars, which is preferred over taps if tooling cost is factored, you need a bar with a diameter smaller than the bore you're threading. 17mm is basically 11/16 meaning you'll be using a very small threading bar. the smaller they are , the more flex. The more flex, the less material you take per pass and the longer it takes to cut the threads. Most of the tie rods are tapped 2 1/2~3" deep. With threading bars it took much longer to do the 17mm than the 23mm .

That said, JT Outfitters may still be building a heavy link. Call and verify the thread diameter. Can't vouch for or against this.

 
Thank you both for your help. That is a lot of info and I have been in touch with JT outfitters and they are our of stock for the Draglink. I Really like the thought of a 21m 1.5 (fj40 TRE) at one end and my SAE Jeep TRE at the pitman arm. I will see if that is something that can fit. I guess worst case I could see if the drag links offered are 17m 1.5 on one end and SAE on the other
 
Looks like Cruiser Outfitters takes the cake! I just need to measure and check out the threads on my Jeep TRE at the pitman arm. It may not be stronger but I can use my 17mm and get on the road safely
 
Do you know if they have a reamer for the j60 TRE? I still do not know where to find weld end bungs for the 1.25"x.25 tubing. I have the bung for the SAE side. On your Fj40 have you had any issues after reaming to fit the Fj80 TRE?
They are the same.
 
Matzell, which are your referring to being the same? The j60 and j80 TRE taper size? I would love to get a stock draglink TRE from a j60 and find the weld in bung to make a new Drag link with my SAE Jeep j20 TRE at the Pitman
 
Yes, mini truck, 60 series, and 80 series have the same taper. 70 may be the same but I have not personally touched one.

Another option would be splice two drag links together. Cut in half, drill two 3/8 holes in each tube, 90 deg apart and about 1" apart. insert 3/4 solid rod or whatever the ID is. use about a 6" piece, 3" in each tube. Leave 1/8 gap. weld up so you are welding tubes to solid bar and each other, turn welder up for this. Then rose weld the holes to the solid stock and tube. grind/sand smooth, flap disc works well. As long as you are a good welder this works, I have done several over the years without issue.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom