You'll still see an RPM drop. I don't get why this is so hard to understand. The engine is idling at "x", you increase the load on the motor with something - anything - the RPMs are going to drop. AC, brake booster, etc. All cars do this. The only way to compensate is to increase RPMs. So, next time it does it, just press down on the gas pedal a little. Problem solved.
I appreciate your feedback TM, and I do understand. I realized long ago even running the heater fan puts a load on engine by taxing the alternator, which BTW drops MPG by about 5%. I was under the false impression our brake system had a vacuum line, as-well as booster pump motor.
That said I've notice over the years in various vehicles the heater fans speed up and lights get brighter as RPM go up. This becomes more apparent with age of vehicle.
So IMHO aged alternator, aged copper wires, corrosion on electrical connections and aging Booster Pump Motor may draw more power (AMPs) than new, which increases load.
With battery and alternator in top shape you may not notice any RPM drop.
This is what I'm thinking.
But the electric part comes from the engine spinning the alternator, right? And when a large load is put on the alternator it will slow the engine down. I've never paid attention, but watching it this morning mine does drop 25 rpm or so when the pump kicks on. Completely normal.
I also only recently noticed this. Only have dash tachometer to go by, it looks like ~25 to 50 rpm drop.
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So we've all agreed here; brake booster pump drops RPM when engaged. It seem we've a difference of opinion if aged will draw off more RPM's than new.
So let us assume for a moment, that and aged system will increase draw:
Will new healthy battery draw on alternator less than aged battery?
And
Will battery with higher amp rating = less initial draw on alternator?