If you don’t have an adjustable pan hard you should. I had the same problem with OME medium springs. Solved the problem when I moved up to the heavies.
Why extend bump stops. Should I extend mine? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter leonard_nemoy
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And I’ve never used bump stop in the front of my 80s.
- Thread starter
- #23
I think you guys are right, I really don't like the idea of extended bump stops......
If I get an adjustable front pan hard than I also need to address the rear panhard correct?
The online store is in the works. I sold my last front DIY joint last week. I have 15 in the pipe line. But that might be a bit unfortunately.
- Thread starter
- #26
Well I have a welder and fab stuff so I am thinking I like the idea of a DIY kit. I am thinking I will do eimkeiths rear pan hard bracket and your (landtank) DIY joint on the front. That would work right?
If I go this route, how do I measure and adjust the front? Would I just be trying to get the tires evenly spaced in the wheel wells?
I never thought I would go down the pan hard rabbit hole. I always thought adjustable pan hards were for the big boys, IE 4"+ lift and 37"+ tires.....
The problem with left hand drive vehicles the front and rear pan Hards are in opposite directions. So when they are off it’s exaggerated by that.
I don’t care how much lift you have, the closer you end up to factory position and geometry the better. And some things might not have an immediate obvious effect but after some 10,000 miles it can matter.
- Thread starter
- #29
I am convinced, I am doing it. I just spent $1400.00 on tires a few months ago, I want them to last. Plus, what if I want to run 37"s in the future.....
Yes.
Delta Vs or Eimkeith for the rear or an adjustable bar, but a number of folks don't like the adjustable rear because it changes the geometry from near horizontal so the behavior is different.
BROMO95
SILVER Star
Or you can install them both for better adjustability
Slee offers a diy kit as well.
Maybe buy one of these, then cut and modify it to be in the middle of your panhard bars........
Tractor Top Link
Tractor Top Link
When you lift, the pan hard needs be lengthened as side “c” in a triangle where it used to be “a”. This is the only reason you will ever use the Pythagorean theorem again.
I’m not sure why you don’t want to extend the bump stops - they compress and give a progressive resistance, people spend a lot of money to add that functionality to rigs. They make the front work really well and are cheap and easy.
I run 37’s (true to size STT Pro) and all I have is proper suspension travel dictated by my shocks that are then protected by extended bumpstops. On 4.5” of lift with adjustable panhard, Landtank caster plates and 2” bump stop drops nothing on my front rubs (I get very close on dip compression where you rub), articulation travel is not limited offroad, caster is in spec, and pinion angle is correct for a DC driveshaft without any vibration.
The front of an 80 isn’t all that flexy and it’s damn easy to make work right without a lot of extra engineering. This is just stock stuff with proper caster plates and suspension design.
- Thread starter
- #36
Well thanks to Baldilocks for reaching out with some advice regarding the fact that there should be a set of bumpstops on the frame along with the things inside the springs because.....
I guess before I start messing with adjustable panhards and extending bumpstops, I should probably start with installing an actual set of bumpstops on the rig.....
I guess before I start messing with adjustable panhards and extending bumpstops, I should probably start with installing an actual set of bumpstops on the rig.....
So I looked back on some posts I mode before my lift and my front axel was offset 3/4 inch to the passenger side. Based on comments I received that seems to be the normal position. Post lift it's about centered under the truck. If your primary goal is to get back to stock geometry then the adjustable rod is for you. If your goal is to reduce tire rub them you need to consider what shifting your axel back to the passenger side will do. It's possible your axel is near center now and moving it to the right may just introduce a rub condition on that side. Not saying don't do it, just go into the decision knowing what your expected outcome is.
My rig does not have front bump stops other than the ones in the springs. Just did a lift for a buddy and his does not have them either. I am very curious as to where these front bump stops go. May need to get some installed myself.
My rig does not have front bump stops other than the ones in the springs. Just did a lift for a buddy and his does not have them either. I am very curious as to where these front bump stops go. May need to get some installed myself.
- Thread starter
- #38
Obviously don't take my word for it lol, but I think they go here.
Maybe someone else can verify.
The bump stop for the front is the tower that sits within the spring. I believe the rear has 2 bump stops per side though.
I believe the front frame bump stops only came on the 93-94s. I had them on mine and pulled em off when I installed swaybar disconnects.
