Why do we repack just the front wheel bearings?

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play in the front hubs?

When i got new tires late last summer on my '02 LC, Firestone recommended a front wheel alignment. I didn't have it done because I wanted the dealership to do it. Firestone also said that the rear pads were low, but not the fronts.

So when I took to Butler Toyota to get an alignment and to check on the brake pads, they said the fronts were indeed low, and they couldn't do the alignment because there was a little play in the front hubs. So they recommended a front brake job and front bearing re-pack.

btw, there is uneven wear on the tire tread... very minor.. and I had the alignment done after my tbar cranking last summer (and they didn't mention any play in the hubs). I haven't been off-road or done any river crossings.

The service adviser couldn't tell me if front bearing wear or looseness could be causing the play - I couldn't make sense of the play unless it was one of these things.

Can you guys make sense of this for me? (I hope this isn't too much of a hijack. i'll be happy to start a new thread if it is.)
 
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...Can you guys make sense of this for me?
Sure. Pick one...

A) Your front brake pads have worn down since last summer and your front bearings either need to be tightened or replaced, or -

B) The dealership saw an opportunity to make several hundred dollars of profit by doing one or two unecessary repairs on a truck from a guy who is at their mercy for technical diagnostics.

:lol:

does that help?

So, seriously, do you own a floor jack, wheel chocks (or something that can be effectively used as such), a torque wrench and a heavy weight jack stand?

If so, jack up the front end and support the frame on the stand without loosening or removing the front tires. Grab front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and push/pull to see if you have movement. If you can feel it, you've got bearing "issues" (wear or pre-load). Put car back down and loosen lug nuts. Raise and support car. Remove wheel and inspect front brake pad thickness in caliper. install wheel, lower, torque lug nuts. Decide if the dealership is BS'ing you or not.

The bearing issue they describe can be real, and can affect alignment readings. So can worn TRE's and a bunch of other stuff.

Also unrelated, what is it about new tires that "demands" an alignment? That never made sense to me. More of an opportunity to tack $70-$100 onto the bill. All of the angles changed during an alignment change the hub, regardless of what tire is on there. I realize that you might want to start tire life with correct alignment, but is there another compelling reason?
 
I have the tools, and I'll check for wobble and worn pads. What are TRE's?

I got the alignment after cranking my tbars. I was having another alignment done (almost a year after the first) because of the minor front tread wear, and (to a lesser extent) because Firestone recommended it. I agree that new tires don't necessitate a new alignment.

re_guderian said:
Sure. Pick one...

A) Your front brake pads have worn down since last summer and your front bearings either need to be tightened or replaced, or -

B) The dealership saw an opportunity to make several hundred dollars of profit by doing one or two unecessary repairs on a truck from a guy who is at their mercy for technical diagnostics.

:lol:

does that help?

So, seriously, do you own a floor jack, wheel chocks (or something that can be effectively used as such), a torque wrench and a heavy weight jack stand?

If so, jack up the front end and support the frame on the stand without loosening or removing the front tires. Grab front tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and push/pull to see if you have movement. If you can feel it, you've got bearing "issues" (wear or pre-load). Put car back down and loosen lug nuts. Raise and support car. Remove wheel and inspect front brake pad thickness in caliper. install wheel, lower, torque lug nuts. Decide if the dealership is BS'ing you or not.

The bearing issue they describe can be real, and can affect alignment readings. So can worn TRE's and a bunch of other stuff.

Also unrelated, what is it about new tires that "demands" an alignment? That never made sense to me. More of an opportunity to tack $70-$100 onto the bill. All of the angles changed during an alignment change the hub, regardless of what tire is on there. I realize that you might want to start tire life with correct alignment, but is there another compelling reason?
 
I'm starting to rethink the bearings also although the noise continued after a half*** pressure wash and garden sprinkler underneath. But it did get worse after the last mud it saw so stands to reason it's just debris. Rained all day so will check this weekend but it comes and goes and that doesn't sound like bearings. Plus no leaking which seems to be the biggest sign of rear failure so said Tuscaloosa Toyota and my mechanic for the bigger jobs. I'll report back

A little off topic but yes, 400k! Thanks, talked to CruiserDan today and even he was amazed so I figure it must be rare. Weird the lack of problems I'll admit but radiator is letting go finally although slowly.
 

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