See picture to see what cluster lights come on with ignition for lamp test. Why is the center locking differential light not included. Picture shown is a 2003.
Why CDL light not on in test cycle?
- Thread starter MH_Stevens
- Start date
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The CDL bulb isn't in the lamp self test on start loop, but the VSC OFF lamp is, and as the CDL also turns VSC off maybe Mr T thought that was enough advisory info for the average consumer?
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- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks, but to me this answer is not logical, because the lamp self test is just that, to test the lamp, which is not done. Testing the two VSC lamps says nothing about the condition of the CDL lamp. I just had to pull my cluster just to prove the CDL lamp was good. This just does not seem right.
Any other thoughts?
There's several lights that don't light up in the ignition sequence, no biggie.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks Trunk Monkey - but it IS A BIGGIE when the FSM says test #1 in diagnosing fault # 47, is check LCD bulb is not burnt out! And you need pull cluster to do that.
AND why does the owner's manual not say which bulbs are in the self test? What use is it if you don't know which bulbs are broken or just not in test?
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If you can hear the actuator on the center diff and feel it binding in a turn, and it locks and unlocks, but you have no light, the bulb is the likely next culprit. My OD bulb is out, makes me crazy when I get in after my wife has been driving it for weeks and I find the OD off. Worse gas mileage, yes please!
- Thread starter
- #7
Trunk Monkey: Unfortunately my problem is looking more complex. I DO hear the actuator click but LCD does NOT engage. Codes say I have an open circuit so right now I'm following the FSM flowchart. Incidentally, in test #1 the bulb was good, but does not light with click of actuator, while both VSC lights are always on (I think you read my thread on this). While I'm chatting can you (or someone) tell me where the actual actuator is, and is there a physical linkage to transfer case?
Thanks
The Lamp Test at Start Up: They probably did it as a matter of cost/convenience. The CDL has it's own control circuit (brain box) and probably does not have all the necessary lamp test I/O available like the engine ECU. (probably gets an ignition on signal but not a cranking signal or such)
So while it would be nice, a failure of your CDL lamp is not safety critical but the brake or ABS lamps could be.
Other thoughts:
The actual actuator is mounted to the transfer case directly so the physical linkage is hidden.
You could disconnect the front drive shaft allowing you to manipulate the gears to ensure you're counter rotating enough to allow engagement as well as feel the engagement or partial engagement. The actuator only spring loads the shift fork when commanded it does not move it, the spring moves she shift fork if and when the teeth align. (at which point the CDL lamp should light)
The lamp will only light when the shift fork has moved into the locked position (assuming a good lamp, good wiring, good switch contacts, and good wiring, etc).
So while it would be nice, a failure of your CDL lamp is not safety critical but the brake or ABS lamps could be.
Other thoughts:
The actual actuator is mounted to the transfer case directly so the physical linkage is hidden.
You could disconnect the front drive shaft allowing you to manipulate the gears to ensure you're counter rotating enough to allow engagement as well as feel the engagement or partial engagement. The actuator only spring loads the shift fork when commanded it does not move it, the spring moves she shift fork if and when the teeth align. (at which point the CDL lamp should light)
The lamp will only light when the shift fork has moved into the locked position (assuming a good lamp, good wiring, good switch contacts, and good wiring, etc).
Mike,
Not sure why this is a big deal. You don't have to pull the cluster to check it. All you have to do is push the CDL button and see the light come on
I didn't realize when I got a 100 that the newer 100's CDL does not engage when you go into low. You have to push the button. This allows for what the 80's guys call the pin 7 mod and you can engage the CDL when in High
Really don't see the issue with it not being in the lamp test when it is easy to test by pushing the button. The test is focused on those lights you can not make active with the push of the button. Your turn signals and brights lamp don't come one either. Not sure about cruise control. Although the open door lights are shown when you can open the door, but there is a logic for checking this
Not sure why this is a big deal. You don't have to pull the cluster to check it. All you have to do is push the CDL button and see the light come on
I didn't realize when I got a 100 that the newer 100's CDL does not engage when you go into low. You have to push the button. This allows for what the 80's guys call the pin 7 mod and you can engage the CDL when in High
Really don't see the issue with it not being in the lamp test when it is easy to test by pushing the button. The test is focused on those lights you can not make active with the push of the button. Your turn signals and brights lamp don't come one either. Not sure about cruise control. Although the open door lights are shown when you can open the door, but there is a logic for checking this
- Thread starter
- #10
Romer - pushing the button does activate the actuator - you hear the click, but no CD locking and no light. The FSM says test #1 check the bulb, so I needed pull the cluster, and it was OK.
IIRC the CDL actuator is pretty easy to get to. Maybe pull that, clean it and see what happens. I also think that part is not too expensive if you find it's no good.
FWIW when I push the button on my 04 I get the CDL light and the VCS OFF lights.
I was under the impression from what you wrote you were unhappy with the lamp test. I did not get you are troubleshooting a CDL failure to engage which is something very different.
So when you push the button does the VCS Off light come on?
Interesting that you hear it engage and no indication. That does make it easier to troubleshoot knowing the switch is wired and getting to the actuator, seems like you are on the right path for the actuator back
I was under the impression from what you wrote you were unhappy with the lamp test. I did not get you are troubleshooting a CDL failure to engage which is something very different.
So when you push the button does the VCS Off light come on?
Interesting that you hear it engage and no indication. That does make it easier to troubleshoot knowing the switch is wired and getting to the actuator, seems like you are on the right path for the actuator back
Please excuse a silly question. Are you moving or stationary when this failure to engage occurs?
- Thread starter
- #14
I've only tried to engage while stationary. Shall Itry on the move?
Romer: What you get is how it should be. For me VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights are always on - that the code for open circuit in LCD - code 47 - I write about this in another thread but go good info.
I was told that actuator is attached to transfer case yet click is behind glove box? two different units?
Romer: What you get is how it should be. For me VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights are always on - that the code for open circuit in LCD - code 47 - I write about this in another thread but go good info.
I was told that actuator is attached to transfer case yet click is behind glove box? two different units?
Yeah, go find a gravel patch and try it while slowly creeping forward.
You have to move to get it engaged. I think it may even be addressed in the owners manual.
Sorry you didn't get value from the other threads you started on this topic but I think you need to follow though a little better with your understanding of the system your trying to diagnose and follow a systematic approach to finding the solution.
All of this assumes you actually have a problem when following the operating instructions.
EDIT: Here are his original posts and efforts which should be good background for anyone trying to help out:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/783130-code-47-repair.html
Sorry you didn't get value from the other threads you started on this topic but I think you need to follow though a little better with your understanding of the system your trying to diagnose and follow a systematic approach to finding the solution.
All of this assumes you actually have a problem when following the operating instructions.
EDIT: Here are his original posts and efforts which should be good background for anyone trying to help out:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/783130-code-47-repair.html
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Are the key-on lights designed to be a 'test sequence' or do they simply represent the normal state of the vehicle not running? If so, that explains the 'missing' lights; events triggering those aren't present at normal start.
- Thread starter
- #18
I will, BUT DON"T FORGET I DO HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE SYSTEM. Its not a novice misunderstanding. I have an error code 47 - Open Circuit in LCD. I will go try change on move now.
I would start checking all of the wiring first given the open circuit code.
Have you re-seated the connector at the CDL control box, CDL switch, and CDL actuator?
If the system gives the error when the CDL was unlocked perhaps the switch contacts inside of the actuator are the issue?
I recommend step by step electrical checks with a meter based on the EWD for the system to isolate the circuit error. It's likely that the system won't attempt to actuate if it's still in an error mode.
Again, first verify all the connectors are clean and have been re-seated (note the CDL control box location is behind the glove compartment and likely the source of the click you hear, pics in the pin7 threads)
TRY NOT TO GET FRUSTRATED WITH THOSE TRYING TO HELP YOU. I thought maybe the code 47 had cleared since you abandoned that thread and started this thread by ranting about the lamp test sequence. Remember it's a hobby and it's all lots of fun! Maybe we should have the mods combine the threads again.
Good luck.
Have you re-seated the connector at the CDL control box, CDL switch, and CDL actuator?
If the system gives the error when the CDL was unlocked perhaps the switch contacts inside of the actuator are the issue?
I recommend step by step electrical checks with a meter based on the EWD for the system to isolate the circuit error. It's likely that the system won't attempt to actuate if it's still in an error mode.
Again, first verify all the connectors are clean and have been re-seated (note the CDL control box location is behind the glove compartment and likely the source of the click you hear, pics in the pin7 threads)
TRY NOT TO GET FRUSTRATED WITH THOSE TRYING TO HELP YOU. I thought maybe the code 47 had cleared since you abandoned that thread and started this thread by ranting about the lamp test sequence. Remember it's a hobby and it's all lots of fun! Maybe we should have the mods combine the threads again.
Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #20
Thanks - I'm doing just what you say. One bit of help. What is the difference between the thing that clicks behind the glove box and the actuator that I am told is joined with the transfer case. I'mopening, cleaning with electrical cleaner and reseating every plug connection I come to.