Why 1.5" Wheel Spacers?

Manhattan · May 27, 2015

I get that, as an IFS truck is lifted, the wheels move in, resulting in a narrower track. But, I’m struggling with the idea of going as wide as 1.5” on the wheel spacers. I’ve yet to run the math (okay, I haven’t asked my 15-year-old daughter who actually remembers how to apply the Pythagorean Theorem”) to see how much the track is narrowed by 2” of lift. But, it can’t be anywhere near 1.5” (3" total).

Why are 1.5” spacers the "standard"? Is it to gain track width over stock... for added stability/looks? How does the increased track - relative to the rear - impact handling? And, assuming 1.5" spacers are used out back, how does the narrower front (relative to the rear) impact handling?

iwashmycar · May 27, 2015

I think you are over thinking it. Lifting a truck 2" would barely change track width. Spacers are typically used for looks, or to lower the offset if the wheel to fit more rubber. Helps gain clearance at the upper control arms.

1.5" are probably "the standard" because that is what they make!. For FJCs 1.25" is the standard, but that is only because that is what Spidertrax makes. Any less and they would not be bolt on, any more and it would be too much.

bluecruiser · May 27, 2015

I did not like how my wheels stuck out from fenders when I did 1.25 in spacers. I sold them immediately and went to the 12mm slip on style spacer in order to help with rubbing, not track width. I was running the Tundra steelies with 295/70/18's. I agree that 1.25 in is what is widely available, that is why many go to them.

@paflytyer reminded me...i had 1.25, not 1.5in

Manhattan · May 27, 2015

I've got about 2" of lift, SPC UCAs, Tundra steelies and 275/70/18/ BFG KO. I haven't found any rub yet... but, it's not been off road since the lift. If my math is even close to correct, the track narrows about .12" total - that's point-one-two inches - or .06" per side.

So, unless it rubs on the trail... skipping the spacers.

Full Disclosure: I'm a branding guy who squeaked through college algebra... barely.

paflytyer · May 27, 2015

I went a long time without spacers, even with a 295/70/18 MT. I did rub though (uca and frame) I think 1.25" are more standard than 1.5", especially for the 100 Series.

Once I upgraded to remote reservoir shocks and NITRO UCA's, I needed the spacers to clear the new setup. Spidertrax 1.25". I wouldn't run them if I didn't need them, but no complaints so far either.

hoser · May 27, 2015

A long time ago, I roughly measured the difference in track width between 0" lift and 2" lift... and it was less than 1/4" difference, per side. I opted for 1.25" wheel adapters up front and 1" in the rear for my 285 width tires. In any case, I don't think you can fit less than 1.5 or 1.25" wheel adapters with steel wheels because of the lack of voids.

NWForester · May 27, 2015

^^ I have done the same: 1.25" for the front and 1.00" for the rear for 285s on the factory 16" wheel. I needed to push the front wheels out to clear the Icon reservoirs. I have almost 2" of lift in the front and there is no apparent track width difference between the front and rear. I would have preferred to use the bare minimum, but settled on what I now have out of cost and availability. As Hoser says, if your wheels don't have voids in the right places like the factory aluminum offering, you won't be able to clear the 1" spacers as the wheel studs extend past the end of the spacer.

OregonLC · May 27, 2015

Same size tire and similar setup as paflytyer (LT295/70R18). Running 1" spacers from JT for clearance.

I will say that a ~ 1" spacer gives the truck a more solid look; stock looks a bit like a rail car.

MTKID · May 27, 2015

I went w/ 3/4" or 19mm adapter for the front and moved my 3/8" slip-on spacer to the rear. This was in order to keep 315/75 16's from rubbing at full lock. Used Motorsport-tech for both and would highly recommend them since you choose what thickness you need rather than what seems to be the "standard"
...not that we can't learn from other tried & tested methods either.

Manhattan · May 28, 2015

Okay, that's some solid info right there. Thanks! Nothing beats experience, e.g. who'd have guessed there's a minimum thickness because of the shape of the wheel. And yeah - 1.25" not 1.5" is the "standard" for the 100. Since there's overlap in labor, I'll hold off on the spacers for a while - and see if there's any rubbing.

jgray · May 28, 2015

Good thread to pop up again as I have been tire / tire & wheel shopping for the past few weeks and still can't decide what route to go this time... I have run 315/75/16 BFG KM2's for the past 4-5 years with no wheel spacers. I would never run anything larger than a 18" wheel and have been looking at different wheel / offset / backspace options available. I am also considering 1.25" spacers again but felt a properly offset or backspaced wheel could eliminate the need for the spacer. I really want the max track width I can run that will not contact the body at full articulation... The 1.25" spacers Slee sells are hub centric and the front spacers are specially machined to fit over the hubs. I do have some "slip on" style spacers I picked up the Shaggy made but are not running them currently...

benc · May 28, 2015

I have the spider track 1 1/4" and my only reason was looks. I had no rubbing with the 315s until I installed the spacers. At ride height the tires are just inside the fender but at full bump the stick out past causing contact with the fender. Not much but with out the spacers it tucked right inside. I found that I didn't mind the look of no spacers until I put the bumpers and sliders on, the bumpers and sliders made the track with look much narrower.

Gunney · Jun 1, 2015

A quick fix for guys running spacers with 315's that connect with the fender is to use a really good twin pack epoxy and fix a hockey puck under each bump stop (not kidding, I know it sounds ridiculous but I have been running them for 3 years in harsh desert driving and have yet to loose one or contact a fender.... you will obviously loose up travel with these installed but they work). Timberin bump stops are stupidly expensive when compared to some ebay pucks.

A sensible man would fit smaller tires without spacers and enjoy maximum up and down travel....Im not a sensible man.

Pucks getting replaced when I did the LCA Bushings. (3 years later and they where fine)