Whose E-brake Actually Works? (1 Viewer)

[thebeedeegee]

Mine worked until our first road trip. After about 100 miles offroad I noticed it wasn't grabbing anymore. I took the rear wheel off to adjust it This is when I found out whoever did the brake job for the PO ( a toyota dealer) overtightened and stripped the lugs so I broke two off removing them. For whatever reason I couldn't get to the adjuster through the caliper so I had to take the drum off as well to adjust it.

It's better now, but I still need to do the other side....I'm scared to remove the wheel in case those idiots messed those studs up as well.

 

[badlander]

I'm scared to remove the wheel in case those idiots messed those studs up as well.

Well, you know what you got to do cowboy, and pronto! Not being able to remove the wheel could end up being a MAJOR problem, as you well know!
Check the other wheel lug nuts as well and good luck, hope you find no issues.

 

[WP2LC]

I was getting no grip at all on my parking brake. But living in florida I never had much need, but I do fear the whole “Total Break Failure” problem. Anyway, figured before I drop a bunch of money I would try to adjust first.
I managed to do the whole job with nothing more than a flashlight and my smallest flathead.
I parked on a flat surface and aligned the rear wheel so the peep hole was exactly at 6 o’clock. No need to remove my stock wheels from a 2000. My rubber plugs are long gone.
Looked in with a flask light to see that I was aligned with the teeth.
Pulled my parking break 4 clicks
Then adjust by rotating up until it wouldn’t turn any more with firm pressure.
Repeat on passenger side.
Drove it for 30 miles with no issues so far. No dragging and I had no problem using only the parking break to come to a stop from 50 mph.

Hope this little cheat helps for those of us who are less mechanically inclined.

 

[MountaineerLC]

Mine was totally nonfunctional until a few weeks ago. I pulled my wheels and rotors, inspected the park brake shoes then adjusted per the FSM. Works as intended now. Will hold me on a hill and I can even lock the rear brakes up while moving.

Unless your brake shoes are shot or your bell crank totally rusted up and froze it's a super simple adjustment. I highly recommend giving them a tune up if you possibly can.

 

[Pyrenees]

When you say you adjusted per the FSM, did you run into anything weird? Did you have to adjust and test back and forth? Or was it pretty straightforward? My ebrake doesn't really work so well.

 

[MountaineerLC]

When you say you adjusted per the FSM, did you run into anything weird? Did you have to adjust and test back and forth? Or was it pretty straightforward? My ebrake doesn't really work so well.

No issues at all and very straight forward. I went the extra step of removing the rotors just so I could inspect the brake shoes before I started adjusting. The FSM says to tighten the brake until the wheel won't turn then back off 8 ( believe) clicks. Next step is to adjust the slack out of the bell crank. Repeat the steps for each side.

It took me maybe two and half hours and much of that time was jacking my rig up, removing the wheels, calipers, rotors and inspecting and cleaning. My e brake was totally nonfunctional prior to this.

 

[Pyrenees]

Can I do this job (even in the most basic sense) with the vehicle on the ground or do I need jack stands?

 

[Live to Ski]

As pointed out above, there. Is a procedure that is not readily apparent without the fsm.

It's amazing to me how many mechanics get it wrong. Dont ask me how I know. Same goes for caster adjust.

I use the procedure to test potential mechanics.

There are 2 good reasons to use parking brake whenever leaving vehicle (besides the obvious): 1) keeps mechanism from freezing up due to non use, 2) helps prolong transmission park mechanism IF parking brake applied before shifting into park (paw stress do to slight roll after placing in park w/o pub uses).

 

[Mojay101]

I was getting no grip at all on my parking brake. But living in florida I never had much need, but I do fear the whole “Total Break Failure” problem. Anyway, figured before I drop a bunch of money I would try to adjust first.
I managed to do the whole job with nothing more than a flashlight and my smallest flathead.
I parked on a flat surface and aligned the rear wheel so the peep hole was exactly at 6 o’clock. No need to remove my stock wheels from a 2000. My rubber plugs are long gone.
Looked in with a flask light to see that I was aligned with the teeth.
Pulled my parking break 4 clicks
Then adjust by rotating up until it wouldn’t turn any more with firm pressure.
Repeat on passenger side.
Drove it for 30 miles with no issues so far. No dragging and I had no problem using only the parking break to come to a stop from 50 mph.

Hope this little cheat helps for those of us who are less mechanically inclined.

Did you Jack the rear so the tires were off the ground or where you able to adjust without jacking?

 

[MountaineerLC]

Can I do this job (even in the most basic sense) with the vehicle on the ground or do I need jack stands?

I don't see how you can property adjust it without getting the rear wheels off the ground. 6 ton jack stands can be had cheap from Harbor Freight and if you're going to work on your own cruiser they're must.

 

[divemedic]

My truck has a non-functioning e-brake for the duration of ownership. It’s on my list to fix. One thing odd, is the “brake” light is always on. Sometimes it will turn of with throttle input. Any ideas on that?

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

My truck has a non-functioning e-brake for the duration of ownership. It’s on my list to fix. One thing odd, is the “brake” light is always on. Sometimes it will turn of with throttle input. Any ideas on that?

Apologies for resurrecting, but did you ever determine a root cause fo this? Identical issue on my end, brake light always on, but no rubbing at the shoe or perceivable engagement.

 

[ramangain]

Don't be surprised if your shoes are trashed when you remove the rear brake rotors/drums. Mine had seen waaay better days.

It also does help to have a third hand to use when reinstalling the spring-based brake shoe retainers that consist of the circular piece that compresses the small, fat springs. Either that, or a mechanism to ensure the "pin" is held solidly in place from the back of the brake disc shield. That was the most frustrating part of re-assembly for me.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Apologies for resurrecting, but did you ever determine a root cause fo this? Identical issue on my end, brake light always on, but no rubbing at the shoe or perceivable engagement.

That brake light will come on if your brake fluid is low too. Mine was on after having my axles out for a while and the lines were dripping. I could still stop fine but the fluid was at the low range in the reservoir.

After adjusting my E brake line at the axle I got it to work but it still isn't as tight at the handle as I'd like