Whose E-brake Actually Works? (1 Viewer)

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Does anybody's e-brake actually noticeable brake the vehicle when you're moving at highway speeds? Even after adjustment, mine holds an incline parked car, but doesn't do s*** when I'm driving at speed.

Also, for people who are so paranoid about not using the e-brake when parking on an incline, has anybody's transmission parking pawl ever broken? Have you heard of anyone's transmission pawl ever breaking from not using the e-brake when parking at an incline?
 
I don't think the parking brake is designed to brake the vehicle while driving at speed. If your parking brake holds the truck when parked at incline I'd say it's doing its job.
 
Some call it parking brake/e-brake interchangeably. I always thought part of the purpose of the e-brake is to be a brake working on a whole separate mechanical system independent of the usual hydraulic brakes, in the event of some (oh I don't know, master cylinder or booster braking like it's been known to) accident.
 
Toyota rear drum ebrake does really work, however rear disk ebrake is close to garbage. My 92 corolla and 97 4Runner got rear drum brakes and ebrake works! but not 00 LC. I guess the shoe surface area is small in rear disk models.
When I test drove my LC at the time of purchase, I pulled the ebrake and it reached the top most position and was very close to snap my wrist!. park brake has never been used!
 
100 series has drum brakes for e-brake (or parking brake). E-brake shoes can be in bad shape, linkage can corrode and freeze up, adjustment is off.
Set e-brake when parked, foot off brake pedal, trans in drive and rev engine to 1500 rpm and truck should not move, if it moves something is wrong with your e-brake. Mine will hold to 2000rpm. Every AutoTrans vehicle has to pass the 1500rpm test at Cruise Moab in order to participate, and quite a few 100 series there.
Had my parking pawl jam on Black Bear Pass when I did not set e-brake first, rig behind strapped me back a bit to take pressure off.
 
Toyota rear drum ebrake does really work, however rear disk ebrake is close to garbage. My 92 corolla and 97 4Runner got rear drum brakes and ebrake works! but not 00 LC. I guess the shoe surface area is small in rear disk models.
When I test drove my LC at the time of purchase, I pulled the ebrake and it reached the top most position and was very close to snap my wrist!. park brake has never been used!
On the 100 series the rear disc brake also has a drum brake inside it.

Drums can create far more braking force, but also overheat much more easily. The brake shoes also need to be replaced in addition to the main brake pads which may have been skipped for a few brake services and now the e brake doesn't work so good.
 
The parking brake should work at highway speeds. I know because I once lost all brake power due to poor Midas install of stainless lines (the ds front line was rubbing the inside of the wheel!). The brakes gave out going down the western slope of the Roger's Pass in BC, which is a very steep and winding hill. The parking brake did stop my vehicle safely.

In short, you probably just need to adjust the 'star nut" until it is tight. How? Well, parking brake off, loosen the wheels, jack up the vehicle so that the rear axle is off the ground. Both rear wheels must be in the air. With both wheels off, you can rotate the axle by hand. Rotate the axle so that the small hole in the rotor (which has a rubber cap) is pointing to 6'oclock. Remove the rubber cap by pulling it). Then use a flat head screw driver to adjust the star nut inside the rotor. If I recall, it needs to be adjusted upward to tighten the shoes. If you adjust it too much, you won't be able to move the rotor. At this point loosen the star nut by adjusting it downward by a few clicks. Then pull the parking brake and see if you can still turn the rotor. Basically, you want it to turn freely (just) with the parking brake off, and you want it to be tight as can be when it's needed.

Here is a very bad graphic that I took from somewhere on the internet:
1977785
 
Does anybody's e-brake actually noticeable brake the vehicle when you're moving at highway speeds? Even after adjustment, mine holds an incline parked car, but doesn't do s*** when I'm driving at speed.

Also, for people who are so paranoid about not using the e-brake when parking on an incline, has anybody's transmission parking pawl ever broken? Have you heard of anyone's transmission pawl ever breaking from not using the e-brake when parking at an incline?

The e-brake on my truck will haul it down from highway speeds. You just need to adjust and lubricate yours, and remember to let off the gas when applying the e-brake at highway speeds. It will work infinitely better that way after adjustment. :D
 
I am able to lock up the rear wheels when going 30-35. You just need to keep thing clean and adjusted. After seeing the thread on catastrophic brake failure, I got mine working better. It was actually working, but I cleaned it up and got it working much better.
 
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I need to replace all of the components outside the axle housing, and probably some internals. My is totally rusted over and after reading some of the brake failure posts its nearing the top of my list.
 
Guess I'll have to check mine again. I cleaned and adjusted everything per the FSM. Works pretty good but I admit I haven't tried it at highway speeds. I'll have to give that a try.
 
Mine stopped working and I had my mechanic take a look last time it was in. He gave everything a good bath trying to free it up from rust, but alas, my e-brake is dead. He quoted me about $600 for a full replacement, but we agreed it just wasn't worth it. It is what it is.
 
I've never tried to brake from highway speeds, but mine definitely holds the vehicle on steep inclines. I cringe when people use the pawl as a parking brake, but I've never seen an actual failure. I wouldn't be surprised if the majority of people rarely/never use their parking brake.

Mine stopped working and I had my mechanic take a look last time it was in. He gave everything a good bath trying to free it up from rust, but alas, my e-brake is dead. He quoted me about $600 for a full replacement, but we agreed it just wasn't worth it. It is what it is.
Not worth it until you get the not-so-rare complete brake failure from the abs motor... I'd consider paying that $600 for peace of mind, if nothing else. I'd need new pants if I lost main brakes and had a non-functional e-brake in a nearly 6000 lb vehicle.
 
I need to replace my cable and shoes as they don't hold the adjustments well or for very long. My hand brake holds ok. I park on an inclined driveway. I have to pull the hand brake up ALL the way. I reverse into the driveway, leave the vehicle in R while depressing the brake pedal and yank the hand brake up. I let the brake pedal off. If the vehicle doesn't move, I then put the transmission into Park. I try not to ever let the vehicle rest on the pawls.
 
The e-brake on my truck will haul it down from highway speeds. You just need to adjust and lubricate yours, and remember to let off the gas when applying the e-brake at highway speeds. It will work infinitely better that way after adjustment. :D

Thanks for the tip. You are ever-so-hilarious.
 
I got quoted $615 parts/labor for the bolt bells, crank pars, boot bells, springs, pin, and brackets - anyone know if that's a reasonable price? They tried giving everything an oil bath to see if it would unseize, but alas, it's stuck solid.
 
I got quoted $615 parts/labor for the bolt bells, crank pars, boot bells, springs, pin, and brackets - anyone know if that's a reasonable price? They tried giving everything an oil bath to see if it would unseize, but alas, it's stuck solid.


You can buy this kit at autozone. If you have a few hand tools and can take your own wheels off, you can tackle the job:


You might want to shell out for a few other pieces, if they are very rusted.
 
You can buy this kit at autozone. If you have a few hand tools and can take your own wheels off, you can tackle the job:


You might want to shell out for a few other pieces, if they are very rusted.

Yeah, they said it was really rusted. It's a Land Cruiser specialty shop and the owner was pretty confident that he could free it up like he has for countless others, but my beast was born in Buffalo, NY. That part of the country uses an order of magnitude more salt on their roads than the worst of the rest of the country.
 
I need to replace my cable and shoes as they don't hold the adjustments well or for very long. My hand brake holds ok. I park on an inclined driveway. I have to pull the hand brake up ALL the way. I reverse into the driveway, leave the vehicle in R while depressing the brake pedal and yank the hand brake up. I let the brake pedal off. If the vehicle doesn't move, I then put the transmission into Park. I try not to ever let the vehicle rest on the pawls.

I am interested in learning more about this. My driveway is not bad but it does have a slight incline. What are the "pawls"?
 

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