I have the 4.5 safari kit, put new joints in the front shaft, in phase, tight splines etc.. It vibes with the castor shims and without. Obviously, it drives way nicer with the shims installed so I am going to re-install and try getting the shaft balance, if no luck I have to put a CV in it. Question: who has a CV in their front shaft with still some angle at the pinion? I know most of the angle is supposed to be at the t-case with a CV, I am not going to be able to do that and maintain nice driveability.
Who has had good results with CV's in their front shafts?
- Thread starter motoloco
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are you asking about a dc driveshaft? don't know why anyone would run a cv on a cruiser driveshaft.
and a 4 1/2" lift can be done with a standard shaft...you just need the correct shims and they have to be installed correctly. you need to measure the angle at the trunnions
and a 4 1/2" lift can be done with a standard shaft...you just need the correct shims and they have to be installed correctly. you need to measure the angle at the trunnions
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- #4
Obviously when its in 4wd. It is installed correctly. And lots of people run CV's on SWB rigs reguardless if its a toyota or not. Its a 95" wheelbase rig with steep drive shaft angles, you dont see the benifit of a CV shaft?
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! If the lift is a recent add-on, then it may have made the static length enough longer that the slip joint is pulled out too far. You might need to get the DS made longer. If you are thinking of a CV like a mini truck, or some 60 series, that is called a DC, double cardan. The single ujoint at the diff end of the DS should be with in 2 degrees of straight. I have been told that you can run a DC on both ends of a DS, but I have no knowledge of that. John
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- #6
Yes I am talking about a DC/CV The slip is in pretty far still and there is no play in the shaft. I have a few other shafts around I might toss in to see how they work.
of a cv shaft? no. i see a great benefit in dc shafts...i run them in three of my rigs. you need to start by checking your measurement at your trunnions, otherwise you're wasting everyones time, including yourself.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Have you tried checking for movement in the flanges on the diff and transfer case? It could be that the extra lift is aggravating a small problem that was not noticeable before. You might also get a cheap angle finder. Measure the vertical plane on the two flanges. If they are real close, then a regular driveshaft should work OK for you. John
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- #9
Nuclearwoman, if this post is wasting your time, QUIT POSTING
Anyway, there is ZERO play at the pinion and maybe a 1/16" at the t-case output.
Anyway, there is ZERO play at the pinion and maybe a 1/16" at the t-case output.
pardion
SILVER Star
Motoloco, with the vehicle setting on the ground what is the caster angle of your front steering knuckles? what is the pinion angle of your front third member pinion? and what is your front output flange on the t/c's angle. this data will help diagnose the problem. Thank's, John
Get your front axle back to stock castor (like has been posted) and then check back with us. To run a DC on the front, you would need to C/T the front to get your pinion pointed at the TC. It would be easier to extend your wheelbase to get better shaft angles than to do that.
Jeremy
Jeremy
- Thread starter
- #12
I will buy an agle finder today and get some numbers. It seems there are quite a few running this much lift w/out vibes in front. I have tried it at near stock castor and without shims (pinion pointing more towards the t-case) with the exact same decelaration vibes. Thanks for the replys.
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
I drew up a quick sketch. This Sketch has been drawn a million times on here, but just so we are all clear. If you are not running a DC at the top, Theta1 and Theta2 MUST be equal or you will get vibrations.
If you are running a DC at the top, you need to rotate your pinion up. I have seen some people run a DC and not rotate their pinion, but they are limiting themselves...
Hope this helps...
take luck.
If you are running a DC at the top, you need to rotate your pinion up. I have seen some people run a DC and not rotate their pinion, but they are limiting themselves...
Hope this helps...
take luck.
Nuclearwoman, if this post is wasting your time, QUIT POSTING
I was just trying to help you save time and money, but as usual, you ask questions and ignore help. go ahead and waste your money getting your driveshaft balanced.
Moto, have you been here? Driveline 101
I think Ige is just trying to point out that you have evidently installed shims in various configurations to solve the drive shaft vibrations and you may have negatively effected the caster. You want that correct before proceeding or you may trade vibrations for death wobble. So it really all begins with checking the caster.
Ed
I think Ige is just trying to point out that you have evidently installed shims in various configurations to solve the drive shaft vibrations and you may have negatively effected the caster. You want that correct before proceeding or you may trade vibrations for death wobble. So it really all begins with checking the caster.
Ed
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- Thread starter
- #16
The driveline 101 is a good read, thanks for your help everyone. The balancing did the trick on the front, rear is getting a DC. The guys at rocky moutain driveline do nice work.
