Whining noise with drive gear issue. (1 Viewer)

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I have this whining/ humming noise that get louder last 2-3 days and I am trying to narrow it down. Most research indicate wheel bearing, T-case bearing, front diff input bearing.

I had a bad front U- joint 2 weeks ago and drove it for 3-4 days before replacing it. Could this rumble vibration from bad front U-joint cause the input bearing on the front diff/ axle to go bad? I plan to go to a friend's shop and put it on a lift to check it out. TIA.
 
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OK, guess I am going to replace the pinion bearing for front diff. Any idea on where I can borrow the bearing puller as listed in FSM? Does AutoZone/ Kragen, Pep Boy shave this particular bearing puller?

Any other trick I should know? TIA.
 

Trapper50cal

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Specter Offroads website lists the item as a Differential Bearing but it is operating as a bearing for the pinion gear/flange.

This group of parts includes a crush sleeve that sets the preload on the pinion gear as it meshes to the ring gear....this is not simply a remove and replace situation.

You may want to confirm that it is the problem and you may want to either read up on the procedure and/or enlist the help of someone who has done it.

Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 090 Land Cruiser Differential
(The exploded of the 80 axle with lockers listed is the same as it relates to what you are talking about)
 
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Are you sure that it is the front pinion bearing? Did you check the level of gear oil in the transfer case or differentials? There are lots of possibilities. Generally speaking, when a pinion bearing goes out, the seal will start leaking due to the sloppy bearing allowing the pinion shaft to move around. If you take the driveshaft loose from the pinion flange, there should be no movement up or down of the pinion shaft. Easy stuff to check before you bust into the front diff.

If you still don't know, you can remove the front driveshaft AND the drive plates out at each front wheel. Test driving it around this way will keep the axles and diff from turn. So if the noise goes away, it would sure point to something inside the front diff. Be sure to duct tape some plastic bags over the area where the driveplates came off or crap may get up inside there. Best part is you still haven't spent any money.........yet. :hillbilly:
 

Trapper50cal

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It could also be the inner or outer bearings for the axle/wheel or the brass spindle bushings....
 
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The reason I am thinking pinion bearing/ front diff input bearing because the noise changes slightly with load/ no load ( accelerate/ cruise). It's not wheel bearing since that would be constant with speed.

Add'l rig was running smooth until I tested the 3X locker on pavement- wheels seems to lock/ bind but locker light still flash and no ABS light. After that test, the U-joint is original ( unloved/ ungreased @ 240k miles) seems to go bad and exhibit the rumble strip vibration through the chassis. I drove like that 200-300 miles trying to confirm the front U-joint abd found the front U-joint to the diff were bad and replaced both joint on front DS.

Because of this wobling from the front drive shaft into the pinion bearing on the front diff, I think the roller bearing woble itself into the race causing the noise.

Diff fluid is full as I just changed all the gear oil to get baselined.

The instruction seems pretty simple to R&R the rear bearing in the front diff as seen on pg 1083 of the 96 FJ80 FSM. I'll drop the drive shaft and remove the drive plate as suggest so if the noise is gone because front axle is no longer spinning. Thanks.
 
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The reason I am thinking pinion bearing/ front diff input bearing because the noise changes slightly with load/ no load ( accelerate/ cruise). It's not wheel bearing since that would be constant with speed.

Add'l rig was running smooth until I tested the 3X locker on pavement- wheels seems to lock/ bind but locker light still flash and no ABS light. After that test, the U-joint is original ( unloved/ ungreased @ 240k miles) seems to go bad and exhibit the rumble strip vibration through the chassis. I drove like that 200-300 miles trying to confirm the front U-joint abd found the front U-joint to the diff were bad and replaced both joint on front DS.

Because of this wobling from the front drive shaft into the pinion bearing on the front diff, I think the roller bearing woble itself into the race causing the noise.

Diff fluid is full as I just changed all the gear oil to get baselined.

The instruction seems pretty simple to R&R the rear bearing in the front diff as seen on pg 1083 of the 96 FJ80 FSM. I'll drop the drive shaft and remove the drive plate as suggest so if the noise is gone because front axle is no longer spinning. Thanks.


replacing that bearing is not simple, you have to pull the third, pull the carrier, undo the 30mm pinion nut, take off th flange, press out the pinion, remove pinion seal, remove oil slinger and the bad bearing, punch out the race, drive new race in, put the pinion, back in, put in new crush sleeve, put in new bearing, oil slinger, pinion seal, flange, and new pinion nut, re set pinion preload (around 300 ft lbs is needed on the pinion nut to srush the sleeve) install carrier and reset backlash...
 
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I have a whinning/ humming noise that comes from drive train as well, but it only happens when I am coasting down a hill or when I let off the gas at highway speeds. In the past, whenever I would change my diff fluids, grease my u-joints (incl pulling the DS's to clean & regrease the splines) the noise would go away. I did this about a month ago, and I still get a little bit of noise, and vibration when acclerating. I didn't do the rear diff fluid, but I'll try this next.
I recall the first time I did this, I changed one rear u-joint as well. I still had issues, so I took it to a local garage, and they told me that the spider was not centered in one of the flanges. I got back home and took the u-joint apart, and they were right, but we're talking thous (by comparing how far the bearing was recessed in the flange). I played with it a bit, and I believe I had to file down one of the retainer rings to get it centered. Having said all this, I don't believe this had anything to do woth the issue, but thought I would mention it anyways. Looking forward to see what you come up with.
 
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I recall the first time I did this, I changed one rear u-joint as well. I still had issues, so I took it to a local garage, and they told me that the spider was not centered in one of the flanges. I got back home and took the u-joint apart, and they were right, but we're talking thous (by comparing how far the bearing was recessed in the flange). I played with it a bit, and I believe I had to file down one of the retainer rings to get it centered. Having said all this, I don't believe this had anything to do woth the issue, but thought I would mention it anyways. Looking forward to see what you come up with.
You mean the spider/ U-joint on front drive shaft not lining up caused the whining noise? I just did both joint for the front DS so I'll check that again to make sure it's seated. Thanks.
 
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replacing that bearing is not simple, you have to pull the third, pull the carrier, undo the 30mm pinion nut, take off th flange, press out the pinion, remove pinion seal, remove oil slinger and the bad bearing, punch out the race, drive new race in, put the pinion, back in, put in new crush sleeve, put in new bearing, oil slinger, pinion seal, flange, and new pinion nut, re set pinion preload (around 300 ft lbs is needed on the pinion nut to srush the sleeve) install carrier and reset backlash...
Questions:

Pull the third= front axle diff cover?

pull the carrier= pull the locking diff unit?

FSM seems to indicate just remove the flange, oil seal, rear bearing inner race then outer race, oil storage ring, then reinstall new parts. Didn't look difficult except the special tool.

I don't know if generic bearing puller from Auto Zone would work or specific to Toyota. I have access to lift and tools from a friend's shop but not Toyota specialty tool. Thx.
 
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IIRC the FSM says you can remove the rear pinion bearing without pulling the 3rd, but how often is just the rear bearing the cause of problems?? IDK. Please take some pics if you do pull the rear pinion bearing and race and post them up. To pull the entire 3rd you have to first pull the axle shafts, but I'm not the expert. You can look at the SST's at OTC's website. The link is here on mud somewhere.
 

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Well if you can pull that bearing without disrupting the pinion gear than I didn't know about that....cool if its true...way easier. I was under the impression that once the preload of the crush sleeve was released a new one had to replace it (unless it was a shimmed solid spacer). Maybe that's not even effected...nice if that's the case.
 
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Trapper50cal: Don't take anything I write about this as correct; I'm just repeating what I've read and what others have written. All the experienced mudders IIRC have said it is best to remove the entire 3rd and check everything, rebuild it on a bench, etc, and I've never done anything close to that. I have the same issue; whining/roaring under load, goes away when coasting. I removed my front driveshaft and some vibration went away but the whining/roar is still there exactly as before, so I'm watching this thread closely for clues.
 
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Trapper50cal: Don't take anything I write about this as correct; I'm just repeating what I've read and what others have written. All the experienced mudders IIRC have said it is best to remove the entire 3rd and check everything, rebuild it on a bench, etc, and I've never done anything close to that. I have the same issue; whining/roaring under load, goes away when coasting. I removed my front driveshaft and some vibration went away but the whining/roar is still there exactly as before, so I'm watching this thread closely for clues.
Thanks for the clarification. The gears were OK when I got the rig and the suspected bearing noise is due to the woble front DS (bad u-joint), so I suspect the gears arent' affected.

If someone can confirm the rear pinion bearing on the front axle/ diff can be removed w/out pulling the third, half shaft, I would feel more comfortable to swap the bearing as I don't want to pull the job only to find out having to put more time to pull the LSD. TIA.

BTW, I've rebuilt, restored, repaired, modified all my cars including the 2 BMW in my sig so I am no stranger to getting in deep, just don't want unexpected time delays.
 

Trapper50cal

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Thanks for the clarification. The gears were OK when I got the rig and the suspected bearing noise is due to the woble front DS (bad u-joint), so I suspect the gears arent' affected.

If someone can confirm the rear pinion bearing on the front axle/ diff can be removed w/out pulling the third, half shaft, I would feel more comfortable to swap the bearing as I don't want to pull the job only to find out having to put more time to pull the LSD. TIA.

BTW, I've rebuilt, restored, repaired, modified all my cars including the 2 BMW in my sig so I am no stranger to getting in deep, just don't want unexpected time delays.
I want a E24 so bad....
 
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Thanks for the compliment on the E24. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c374/BMW740IL/SigPic.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c374/BMW740IL/SigPic.jpg

Is your noise like what happened to me?

See my post here with video and sound:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/457146-growling-rear-drivetrain-need-help-pics-video.html
I saw that but didn't think the gears were a problem. I have a LSD unit that I need to put it in the BMW 740 so even if the Locking unit were a problem, it would not make the bearing type noise as it's not spinning. Beside I can't afford to get a spare third or front axle to replace so I jut have to fix what I got. Thx.
 
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You mean the spider/ U-joint on front drive shaft not lining up caused the whining noise? I just did both joint for the front DS so I'll check that again to make sure it's seated. Thanks.
No, if you mean the out-of-phase positioning of the two yokes on the front DS. In my case I replaced one of the u-joints on the rear DS, and meant that the spider or cross was not perfectly centered in the driveshaft yoke.
 

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