Which welder is for me? (1 Viewer)

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If i am not mistaken.. My water heater uses a 220 volt outlet.. Right next to the garage.... So nevermind that problem.

And yeah that looks like a good deal! Might jump on that. I still havnt heard any recomendations as far as amerage of the machine? Anyone?

just fyi don't use the hot water heater line or your dryer outet unless its rated for 50 amps. they are prob only wired with #10 romex (30amp)or even #12 (20 amp). over draw will burn your house down.
good luck.
 
just fyi don't use the hot water heater line or your dryer outet unless its rated for 50 amps. they are prob only wired with #10 romex (30amp)or even #12 (20 amp). over draw will burn your house down.
good luck.


That entirely depends on the amp draw of the welder. My Miller 210 has run on a 30A drier circuit forever. Max draw is 29 amps, but you are virtually never welding at full output and so the draw is much lower. If it draws more than the 30A the wiring can handle, it would trip the breaker(which it never has).

The 220V machines will come with a plug. It's just not the same plug as a drier plug. You will need to improvise here. I have a gas drier and so converted the outlet.

Best solution is to have an electrician install a dedicated 50A 220V outlet, but it is not required.
 
That entirely depends on the amp draw of the welder. My Miller 210 has run on a 30A drier circuit forever. Max draw is 29 amps, but you are virtually never welding at full output and so the draw is much lower. If it draws more than the 30A the wiring can handle, it would trip the breaker(which it never has).

The 220V machines will come with a plug. It's just not the same plug as a drier plug. You will need to improvise here. I have a gas drier and so converted the outlet.

Best solution is to have an electrician install a dedicated 50A 220V outlet, but it is not required.

not sayin you can't do it..just sayin its not safe...if you are exceeding more than a 80% of your amp draw on a circuit you are relying on just your breaker. some older bryant breakers in older houses were know to not work. you are 100% right tho..

"Best solution is to have an electrician install a dedicated 50A 220V outlet, but it is not required"

:cheers:
 
Water heater are not plug ins so it would have to be rewired to put on a plug. You will have to unplug it to plug in the welder. Most likely it is not in the right spot. Bite the bullet and run a wire from the panel to your workshop. You will glad you did when it is done.
 
Well now im thinking the drier is my only option, for now. But i am skeptical of using it after hearing that it could potentialy burn my house down D: thats not good news. I hear alot about that millermatic but that eastwood looks like one good deal! Ugh im so torn now XD

Thanks everyone for the great input!!
 
Well now im thinking the drier is my only option, for now. But i am skeptical of using it after hearing that it could potentialy burn my house down D: thats not good news. I hear alot about that millermatic but that eastwood looks like one good deal! Ugh im so torn now XD

Thanks everyone for the great input!!

I would not consider Eastwood welder a "good" deal. Buy a Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, Thermal Arc, or Esab.

Running a dedicated circuit is not difficult.
 
What is wrong with eastwood? The reviews i have read so far make it seem as if it would fit my needs.

Is it a lower quality machine in comparison to the other big name brands on the market?
If it is, i will pass.
I just saw that it was recomended by a member previously in this thread and looked like a great "package". Do the other machine last longer or somthing? Easier to use? Better product? Thanks!
 
What is wrong with eastwood? The reviews i have read so far make it seem as if it would fit my needs.

Is it a lower quality machine in comparison to the other big name brands on the market?
If it is, i will pass.
I just saw that it was recomended by a member previously in this thread and looked like a great "package". Do the other machine last longer or somthing? Easier to use? Better product? Thanks!

Well, if the price difference is any predictor I'd say it's a lower grade machine than a Miller, Lincoln, Hobart etc. etc. I'm not going to say that the machine is complete junk (HF's is junk), but if I had a $1500 budget and was looking for a welder it wouldn't be ANY of Eastwood's MIG line.

In the circles I travel most guys I know that weld for a living buy either Lincoln or Miller. It's like the Chevy v Ford hot rod debate. Esab and Hobart are also great machines which I wouldn't hesitate to buy if I found a used one for a good deal, but they can be compared to the Oldsmobile v Mercury debate. Aslo two manufacturers with an amazing line of decent hot rods.

Now with these awesome analogies fresh in your head imagine going to a auto swap meet which has all different makes and models. Do you think you will find more Chevy and Ford parts compared to Oldsmobile and Mercury? I would say more often than not that's the norm at most swap meets around the country unless it's a specific make/model meet. This will probably be the same scenario if you fast forward twenty-five years from now and walk into your favorite welding supply shop looking for replacement parts within the four brands. Just my two cents!!
 
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Point proven^ thank you very much for that comparison, seriously that really helped. I will look around online a bit more but you guys taught me exactly what i want to look for. Whereas before i was clueless.. Thanks so much.

Where should i look at getting my gas bottle refilled? (noone say a gas station :D)
 
Where should i look at getting my gas bottle refilled? (noone say a gas station :D)

The same welding supply shop you purchase the bottle from would probably be the best place. Try and find a reputable one close by. I have a ton local to me, but I only go to one because most guys who I know who weld for a living recommended it to me, and told me which ones to definitely steer clear of.
 
Okay thank you, i dont know of any welding supply shops locally off the top of my head. But im sure a quick google search or look in the yellowpages would yeild somthing local.

Around how much is a full refill usualy on a larger bottle? (i know this probably varies depending on area) but just to give me an idea. And its 75% argon, 25% CO2 correct?
 
Okay thank you, i dont know of any welding supply shops locally off the top of my head. But im sure a quick google search or look in the yellowpages would yeild somthing local.

Around how much is a full refill usualy on a larger bottle? (i know this probably varies depending on area) but just to give me an idea. And its 75% argon, 25% CO2 correct?

Your gas mix is correct.

The Eastwood welder you are looking at is a Chinese copy of a Miller 175. Don't buy it. A used Miller 175, however, is perfect to get started with. The Miller 180 is the latest version of the same thing. I would look for used on Craigslist. Also,
Hobart is Miller's second label and great for the money.

The thing with Miller or Lincoln machines is that they use very standard/available consumables. The tips and similar parts are available everywhere. If you have a non-standard machine, finding the consumables is just one step more difficult. You don't need that hassle.

If you use flux core wire, no shielding gas is needed, but it is easier to weld with "solid" wire and shielding gas. I agree about buying the bottle, but seriously, do not sweat that, because in the end, you don't use that much gas. That isn't a major expense for a home welder. Most people get an 80 CF bottle and it lasts a long time. Like a whole spring over with power steering takes less than 1 bottle of gas. Don't get hung up on this.

I welded a lot of metal using a $50 auto dark helmet from Harbor Freight, but I have really enjoyed my $300 auto dark Miller helmet. Again, the domestic stuff is more expensive but it's also better and a good place to spend your money. Trust me that the welder itself is just the start, and you will need grinders, vice grips, protective clothing and a whole lot of other stuff that costs more than the welder itself. For instance, I would recommend you buy 3 angle grinders, one with a cutting wheel, one with a grinding wheel and one with a flap disc. That way you don't need to be constantly swapping out while you work.

One other thing to budget in. A heavy gauge extension cord for your welder is great to have, You can make it or buy it, but it makes it much easier to get the welder into position. Mine is 8ga and was about $80.

Spend some time shopping Craig's list if your budget is limited and you'll come up with what you need.

Good luck.
 
Craigslist Savannah, Hinesville has a couple sweet deals right now. a 120 v machine is a good deal and does OK for beginning, you will eventually graduate to the 220 V Lincolns, millers. Watch them closley and if you find something quickly try to pin a MUD member for info, these guys are really good
 
Great advice thanks! It seems like i will look more at a hobart.

Another question, i know 175 amp keeps being mentioned. Will a 175 amp machine be adequite for the things i intend on welding as mention in my first post? Will i ever desire more than 175 for the things im welding? The thickest material i ever plan on welding are rock sliders/on the frame. Not exactly sure what the thickness on those is.

Next question, will the gas mixture in the bottle ever "go bad"/expire? Sort of like how you have to keep a fire extinguisher charged?
My welding sesions will most likley be about 3 weeks - a month apart. Dont know if that helps with determing an answer.
 
^ Yes...175A should be enough for anything you mentioned...typically good for up to 5/16" steel single pass. I started out with a MillerMatic 175 and built sliders, etc. and it was fine.

On eBay, etc. new MM180 for ~$840 with gauge set and free shipping.

Gas doesn't go bad. When you're finished welding close the tank valve and purge the gas from the gauges...
 
Okay thank you for that information. I appreciate all your help guys!!
 
I'm thinking about getting a welder myself and the Hobart 210 MVP seems awfully nice given the expandability to 240V. Northern Tool seems to have a good deal on it ($850 with shipping IIRC).
For what I have in mind to do (armor, trailer stuff) it seems like my ideal welder should be able to do 1/4" reliably in one pass (unless I figure out and then master the multiple passes bit...)

I've done my share of shopping at HF and the like but a welder is something where I would indeed go with the majors. I actually have a semi-old inexpensive (italian I think) smallish MIG that was thrown away and I hoped I could fix it easily enough but no dice finding parts.
 

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