Which oil are you using? (1 Viewer)

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I went vegan.

2018938
 
Last oil change, I switched to M1 TDT 5w40. This was my first interval with a full synthetic. Happy to report No new leaks, and the old ones were about the same.

Valvetrain was not as quiet as when I was running the VR1 20w50, so I moved up to M1 15w50 per HemiAlex’s rec. Engine immediately quietened down. Running great. Very smooth. Will try for 5000 miles.

It really quieted my valve train. I’ve been happy with it. I ran the last change for 5,000 without issue.
 
For the last few years I've been using Mobil-1 High Mileage 10W-40 and substituting a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with it. So 6qts Mobil and 1qt MMO on a change. I also use K&N oil filters, mainly because they're high quality filters like the Toyota filters, and they have the raised portion on top that you can put a 1" socket on.
 
So the previous owner used traditional oil (Quaker) so I don’t think I want to switch now to synthetic. Any thoughts, mileage is 190...
 
So the previous owner used traditional oil (Quaker) so I don’t think I want to switch now to synthetic. Any thoughts, mileage is 190...

I was apprehensive, to say the least, about using synthetic in mine when I switched to Mobil 1 at 210k miles. I know my RMS has a drip. Probably a few others, too. But, I can't tell any difference in the rate or amount of drip since switching. There may be a difference, but it isn't enough for me to notice it or be bothered by it. Increase in oil change interval was worth it to me.
 
Would you still add ZDDP with Mobil 1 since it has a high level-? I’m using a wix filter since I didn’t get a response for the Toyota filter. Th
 
Would you still add ZDDP with Mobil 1 since it has a high level-? I’m using a wix filter since I didn’t get a response for the Toyota filter. Th
I am not an oil engineer although there are some on here. However, because Mobil recommends the 15w-50 specifically for flat-tappet cam engines, I do not believe additional ZDDP would likely be necessary.

Re: filters, I use a few different ones though I note the Toyota-made filters seem to be very high quality. Not sure about how their filter media measures up to others. On the BITOG (Bobistheoilguy.com) forums, they seem to really like the Fram Ultra filter (BUT NOT ANY OTHER FRAM PRODUCT). I am currently using the Denso equivalent of the Toyota large filter (Wix 51515/Motorcraft FL-1A equivalent). I have also used the Toyota YZZD3 filter which is smaller but also very well made. I use Toyota large filters from HemiAlex on my FJ40.
 
I am not an oil engineer although there are some on here. However, because Mobil recommends the 15w-50 specifically for flat-tappet cam engines, I do not believe additional ZDDP would likely be necessary.

Re: filters, I use a few different ones though I note the Toyota-made filters seem to be very high quality. Not sure about how their filter media measures up to others. On the BITOG (Bobistheoilguy.com) forums, they seem to really like the Fram Ultra filter (BUT NOT ANY OTHER FRAM PRODUCT). I am currently using the Denso equivalent of the Toyota large filter (Wix 51515/Motorcraft FL-1A equivalent). I have also used the Toyota YZZD3 filter which is smaller but also very well made. I use Toyota large filters from HemiAlex on my FJ40.

Thanks, i will see ho it runs with the M1, I was going to run the Toyota filter but haven’t heard back from HemiAlex and since its summer may be away. I have to change the oil because it’s dripping from the drain plug because it’s the old washer the previous owner forgot to change. Better off starting fresh anyway.
 
Is this what a lot of people are using, diesel engine oil right with high zinc and minerals etc?
Also whats 3FE Filter Part Number?
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Perfect, thank you. No o-ring or anything else needed to do a lube job right?
Long time ago, I have replaced the oil drain nut with the Fumoto valve. So last 10 years I haven't needed any kind of a o-ring. Once you add 1st gallon of oil, add your zinc, add 3/4 of the 2nd gallon jar. Check for the level of oil and that might be all it takes. I always have a little bit oil left from the 2nd gallon after adding the zinc.
 
Long time ago, I have replaced the oil drain nut with the Fumoto valve. So last 10 years I haven't needed any kind of a o-ring. Once you add 1st gallon of oil, add your zinc, add 3/4 of the 2nd gallon jar. Check for the level of oil and that might be all it takes. I always have a little bit oil left from the 2nd gallon after adding the zinc.
What product do you get for the Zinc?
 
Adding Zinc (zddp additive) can be dangerous and do more damage to the engine than too little zinc.

Just run an oil that says it's for older engines ... The T4 Rotella is good. M1 15w50 Lucas Diesel

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Below is the Highest Quality Level Motor Oil for a 1961-1997 F-Series Gasoline Engine currently available on the market today ....

- 20W-50 has this highest protection level on your owners manual's Viscosity Chart , Based on the Temperature Rating Scale ( you of-course adjust accordingly )

- The Full Synthetic Motor Oil Rocket Science is real and now common place , TOYOTA now spec's Full Synthetic oil in ALL of its current , & last 8+ years vesical line up .....

- this is the Only API ( American Petroleum Institute ) Certified 20W-50 Motor Oil offered in the North American Destination Market

- the current API rating coverage is
SP / ILSAC GF-6A, API SP, API SN with SN Plus, API SN

- the Zinc content correctly protects & meets the requirements of a solid lifter , solid tappets, in-block Camshaft , Timing Gears , & rotation-type push-rods inline 6 Cylinder Engine , but Not in a excessively harmful way ...

- i have personally been using this in All my personal Toyota family fleet for more then a decade , ( in the correct viscosity weight based on the engine requirements of that said TOYOTA engine )

- if there is another motor oil out there that meets or exceeds Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic overall specifications & engine protection as it relates to a Gasoline 1961-1990 F- Series Engine ? please share here in this important discussion


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Full synthetic in an F series is a waste of money.

Dino or para synthetic and OCI every 3k or twice a year.
 
Adding Zinc (zddp additive) can be dangerous and do more damage to the engine than too little zinc.

Just run an oil that says it's for older engines ... The T4 Rotella is good. M1 15w50 Lucas Diesel

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I think the Rotella 10W-30 I purchased has an adequate amount of Zinc

I know for a fact the Rotella 15W-40 has the proper amount of zinc required, but cant confirm the 10W-30 Zinc content for some reason.

Regardless the first lube job in 15 years im going to use Rotella 10W-30 + Marvel Mystery Oil + Toyota Filter

My goal is literally to get her fired up once or twice, not much driving beyond a few feet may accour at the moment so I think its all good.
 

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