Which oil are you using? (2 Viewers)

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Walmart used to carry the Accel 10W-40 SF-rated oil, but dropped it. I now run 15w-40 Chevron Delo from Walmart, which is cheap and has the good additives (or as much as I care to think I need).

I refuse to pay 8.99/quart for a 'racing oil' for my truck, but that's because I'm cheap.
 
Well if cost were no object (which it is), it seems that the Lucas Oil has a "non-racing" high ZDDP oil for "hot rods and classic cars".

I have written Lucas Oil to confirm that this oil is appropriate for "non-racing" engines, meaning it isn't intended to be changed out every other week or right after a "race" but rather can sit in a car/truck such as my 1983 Fj60 for 3-6 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first, between changes.


Here is some info they put out, note that they have "race-only" oil AND this "hot rods and classic cars" oil with over 2000 ppm zddp level:

https://lucasoil.com/pdf/Zinc_Values_MotorcycleOil.pdf


I think this would be the closest thing to the obsolete grade "SF" oil and 10w-40 viscosity called for in my owners manual.

What do you guys think ?
 
That's what I use. The racing oil has no detergents. The Diesel oil (Magnum) has high-detergent for soot. I used to use the 'Magnum' but have since switched to the 'Classic' and spend the extra $ for the higher zddp level.
 
That's what I use. The racing oil has no detergents. The Diesel oil (Magnum) has high-detergent for soot. I used to use the 'Magnum' but have since switched to the 'Classic' and spend the extra $ for the higher zddp level.

How long have you been using the Lucas "Classic car and hot rod" stuff ? Which weight do you use ? Has it treated you and the truck well or are there any noticable issues to report of ?
 
A few years.

It's oil. What's there to say? But it's oil with the proper amount of zddp (actually, a little higher than necessary as old SF had around 1700 ppm).

Both the Magnum 15w40 and the Classis 10w40 have worked fine, but one would only really know with a proper UOA or engine tear-down after many miles.
 
Picked up some rotella t4 today from Home Depot for $13.97 / gallon + tax. Not my typical auto parts store but I thought it was a good price.
 
Just a reminder for those who run a catalytic converter that needs to actually function well enough to pass emissions tests...

The whole reason that the percentage zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) has been reduced in the latest motor oils is because it has recently been "discovered" that those two compounds accelerate the death of the cat.
So adding a ZDDP additive will not play nice with the cat.

So, if in California and concerned about passing emissions, hot in the summer cooler in the winter - what’s the ideal oil? I was originally just going to get what I can get for a good price.
 
OSS is right, but engines/camshaft/lifters replace are waaaaay more expensive than a CAT...

Run any of the oils mentioned and change it often. Same for gear oils.
 
Just recently, the truck started smoking at idle and on take off. 4000 miles ago. Had been running mobil delvac 15w40.

I swapped to Valvoline VR1 20w50 with Lucas oil stabilizer and a 15600-41010 Filter.

The smoking stopped. I'm still at 160psi on my 296,000 mile shortblock. Couldn't be happier. Its an expensive oil change but I'm a compulsive thinker about upkeep anyway.
 
Just for the heck of it, I did an oil analysis on my FJ62.
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Kleatus - what brand of oil was that?
 
Kleatus - what brand of oil was that?
Steve, it’s Schaeffers #708 15w40. 4,200 miles on that oil and 400k on the truck. Prior to this last oil change I ran Rotella and/or Delo 15w40.
 
Lots of zinc and phosphorous! I think I'm running Rotella.
 
I have a case of Valvoline 10-40 ATV off road oil laying around. Anyone ever use this?

I know it has more additives but also friction modifiers.
 
The Subaru guys run Rotella to with a lot of success. Being so common and full of good minerals I think I will be too in the future. Toyota oil filters and bulk Rotella it is for me. Plus, it's common as hell you can find it anywhere in a pinch.
 

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