Which engine? (1 Viewer)

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There are a few sensors - manifold air pressure, coolant temp, air intake temp, RPM at pump, crank angle, pump timing sensor, and maybe more im
Forgetting. But my previous statement still applies
can you plug in a computer to trouble shoot problem with the engine. and which of these sensors typically goes out?
 
can you plug in a computer to trouble shoot problem with the engine. and which of these sensors typically goes out?
Yes you can, just a cheap wifi dongle and a smartphone will troubleshoot the engine. Wouldn’t say any of the sensors are specifically prone to failure - it’s a much more reliable system than one involving a MAF sensor which are pretty finicky. The map and air temp sensor are the easiest to change, but won’t leave you stranded if they fail. Timing sensor played up on the pre 02 models but it was the wiring and the update fixed it. The valve itself is quite a big job to change
 
Yes you can, just a cheap wifi dongle and a smartphone will troubleshoot the engine. Wouldn’t say any of the sensors are specifically prone to failure - it’s a much more reliable system than one involving a MAF sensor which are pretty finicky. The map and air temp sensor are the easiest to change, but won’t leave you stranded if they fail. Timing sensor played up on the pre 02 models but it was the wiring and the update fixed it. The valve itself is quite a big job to change
Ok thx very helpful.
 
I would like to know what are the common performance upgrade that are done to the 1HD-FTE engine without sacrifice too much the reliability of the engine. Thx
From mild to wild:
EGR block
3” exhaust
Intercooler upgrade along with 2.5” intake pipework
Boost T (can only go to 16psi)
Unichip (or other chip, but Unichip is best)
Gturbo/UFI (or other turbo upgrade eg Munro, Eclipse etc.), chip tuned to suit
Injector upgrade - +30, +40 or +70, chip tuned to suit.

You’re going to need an air filter housing to suit the flow - if you’ve got a big turbo and injectors you’re going to need something high flow. Panel filters are crap in the bush/high dust environments. Donaldson has just released a Powercore housing for the VDJ200 which is very exciting - finally a high flow set up that works in extreme conditions and fits in a crowded engine bay.

If you end up with the works burger you need a very good clutch (eg NPC 1300 or 1600) and a healthy gearbox especially with your weight. No H55f will cut it I reckon
 
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From mild to wild:
EGR block
3” exhaust
Intercooler upgrade along with 2.5” intake pipework
Boost T (can only go to 16psi)
Unichip (or other chip, but Unichip is best)
Gturbo/UFI (or other turbo upgrade eg Munro, Eclipse etc.), chip tuned to suit
Injector upgrade - +30, +40 or +70, chip tuned to suit.

You’re going to need an air filter housing to suit the flow - if you’ve got a big turbo and injectors you’re going to need something high flow. Panel filters are crap in the bush/high dust environments. Donaldson has just released a Powercore housing for the VDJ200 which is very exciting - finally a high flow set up that works in extreme conditions and fits in a crowded engine bay.

If you end up with the works burger you need a very good clutch (eg NPC 1300 or 1600) and a healthy gearbox especially with your weight. No H55f will cut it I reckon
What robust manual transmission would you recommend. Hopefully one that will fit on a HJ47 with not too much modification.thx
 
What robust manual transmission would you recommend. Hopefully one that will fit on a HJ47 with not too much modification.thx
Any H15* box, preferably not an 80 series one though - the 100 and 79 boxes had various upgrades. You probably don’t need the high gearing of an H152. Some H151s have the shifter further back for 100 series GXLs, whether this is good for a 40 I’m not sure
 
Any H15* box, preferably not an 80 series one though. You probably don’t need the high gearing of an H152. Some H151s have the shifter further back for 100 series GXLs, whether this is good for a 40 I’m not sure
ok thx let me do some googling.thx
 
What would you do to the 12ht? What turbo would you recommend? Currently if i keep the 12ht i am thinking ADS injection, MLS head gasket and Gturbo. Anything else? Thank you
I'm late to this show. Did you manage to get that HO alternator? You had me online so I had a spare sent over in 4 days.
My 12HT is somewhere in the mid 400 kms. I have a Grunter Green GTurbo. I timed my injection pump and had injectors rebuilt.
Now after 3 yrs of running that. Included I built a FMIC. I'm holding my boost at 20 psi with a controller.
I've decided that in order to get the longest life out of my truck I'm going to rebuild.
List: Alphin pistons and rings - reason is extra boost on 38 yr old rings. The alphins have been designed to withstand the extra
boost and are latest technology materials. Any material now is better than then.
MLS head gasket - same reason, extra boost and latest tech materials. If I didn't run a GTurbo I'd just use Toyota head gasket.
Bearings on main crank and big end of rods - stupid not to.

My question since it's come up is can a H55 be swapped out straight for the later H151 that is mentioned previously? I have no
issues with my H55 as I purchased it new in 2017. BUT, I'm not travelling around the world in a 10,000 lb truck - yet. LOL.
Are bellhousings going to bolt up? Shifter location? Depth of transmission? Crossmember location?

As usual, glad you are enjoying your trip and always nice to touch base! J
 
What robust manual transmission would you recommend. Hopefully one that will fit on a HJ47 with not too much modification.thx

You can't go past the H15* boxes for strength from a Toyota box.
They were designed from ground up as a heavy duty 5 speed. 5th gear is integrated on the main shaft, and last shaft

H55 started life as a 4 speed.
5th gear was added on the reverse gear shaft in an extended reverse gear housing on the back of the 4 speed box. 5th gear is not as stable as one integrated on the main shaft and single lay shaft.

The gears in a H15* box are larger, thicker, wider, heavier than the h55 gears. They are about 25% wider. So there's much more metal meshed all the time.

They are chalk and cheese.
The whole unit is much bigger. Which may be a problem
 
I'm late to this show. Did you manage to get that HO alternator? You had me online so I had a spare sent over in 4 days.
My 12HT is somewhere in the mid 400 kms. I have a Grunter Green GTurbo. I timed my injection pump and had injectors rebuilt.
Now after 3 yrs of running that. Included I built a FMIC. I'm holding my boost at 20 psi with a controller.
I've decided that in order to get the longest life out of my truck I'm going to rebuild.
List: Alphin pistons and rings - reason is extra boost on 38 yr old rings. The alphins have been designed to withstand the extra
boost and are latest technology materials. Any material now is better than then.
MLS head gasket - same reason, extra boost and latest tech materials. If I didn't run a GTurbo I'd just use Toyota head gasket.
Bearings on main crank and big end of rods - stupid not to.

My question since it's come up is can a H55 be swapped out straight for the later H151 that is mentioned previously? I have no
issues with my H55 as I purchased it new in 2017. BUT, I'm not travelling around the world in a 10,000 lb truck - yet. LOL.
Are bellhousings going to bolt up? Shifter location? Depth of transmission? Crossmember location?

As usual, glad you are enjoying your trip and always nice to touch base! J
Hello @cruiserpilot, sorry but thanks i never got that HO alternator. I was told by the vendor that there were problem with it so they no longer carry it at that time. I got the OEX normal output.thx

Keep me posted on the 12ht upgrades i am trying to figure out my options. How do you keep your boost at 20PSI without over heating. I am traveling from Morocco to South Africa now. We travel slow so it will be a while before we get to SA. My plan it to either do a performance update on my 12ht or replace it when we get to SA. The 1hd-fte is the most attractive option for now, but of course very costly. There are other interesting options like the 15BFTE.

I don’t have the answer to the transmission question. But the other day someone send me this picture. Which reminded me of our trip to Alaska when my 10,000 pound beast pulled a trailer everywhere in Alaska, including the Dalton Hwy, top of the world hwy etc. No issues with my h55 transmission and my 12th. Hard to believe but my fuel consumption was 23 mpg, yes i was travelling slow. Great to hear from you.
B8A6DB94-38B8-43A3-8353-6FE9229B3519.jpeg
 
I only get the 20 psi on hard throttle input. Normal cruise into a slight grade it might get up to 10 psi.
I get the EGT temps you do as indicated earlier in this thread. FMIC is no good at slow speeds, but towing is where it
helps. To be honest, I just drive like normal, only over 100 k when passing.
Didn't know there were issues with that alternator. Mine has proven flawless so far. I think, as I learned, that significant wire
upgrades are needed on the charging side and when it feeds through the system. I run FYRLYT 12000 MOFO 300W each drawing
30A at night, amazing but price is high on the electrical side.
I will pm you the sources I have for engine rebuild parts. I have an insider Australian helping me. I'd not figure it out myself.

@GTSSportCoupe can give best knowledge of 15 series motors, they being in Hino 3 ton delivery trucks. Certainly would
be helpful. I just haven't studied or have that knowledge. The 151 5 speed intrigues, but again whether it fits is another thing.
 
Do all the people here trashing on the little cummins R2.8 have first hand experiences to back up their claims? Just curious where this is coming from. The few swaps I've seen done here seem to be working fantastic for the owners.

Reminds me of the LJ78 and 2LTE. Everyone who hates on it has never actually owned one. Mine has served me fine for over 10 years now, and is faster than any of the diesel cruisers in my local cruiser club.

Here's real world experience of the R2.8 in a troopy: SOLD - Cummins R2.8/H55f Quick Draw adapter kit, other components - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cummins-r2-8-h55f-quick-draw-adapter-kit-other-components.1304901/post-14817771
How many kms/miles have you done ? What sort of work does she do, as in load pulled? How often? You have the h55f ?
 
IMO I would still be looking at a 15BFT and H series box (not H55F).
What are the experience with the 15bfte installed on a 40 series. Is there a kit available and what kind of manual transmission. How much modification?thx
 
Do all the people here trashing on the little cummins R2.8 have first hand experiences to back up their claims? Just curious where this is coming from. The few swaps I've seen done here seem to be working fantastic for the owners.

Reminds me of the LJ78 and 2LTE. Everyone who hates on it has never actually owned one. Mine has served me fine for over 10 years now, and is faster than any of the diesel cruisers in my local cruiser club.

Here's real world experience of the R2.8 in a troopy: SOLD - Cummins R2.8/H55f Quick Draw adapter kit, other components - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cummins-r2-8-h55f-quick-draw-adapter-kit-other-components.1304901/post-14817771

In my country they were factory fitted to Chinese Foton utes. A decade ago there were plenty on the road but they're pretty much all gone now. I know a guy who had two engines replaced by 100,000km.
Bores wearing out is one of the big problems they have.
 
How many kms/miles have you done ? What sort of work does she do, as in load pulled? How often? You have the h55f ?

I assume you're asking about the R2.8 swap I linked to? I'm not the owner, but you could PM the fellow who is (just go to that link).

I beat the hell out of my 2LTE. About 150,000km. Every summer we camp multiple times with a 16' trailer. It weights about 4000lb loaded, truck weighs 5500lb loaded (9500lb total). I move that at 100km/hr or more. Actually passed a unloaded BJ73 going up a hill before, haha.

Trick with the 2LTE is scrapping the emissions gear, install newer version cylinder head, newer cooler t-stat, intercooler, tune. Works great. I would not swap one into anything mind you; but since I have it, I make the best of it.

IMG_20180719_130807359.jpg
 
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Here you can see 1HDFT & H55 into a 45-series pickup.




Cheers
 
What are the experience with the 15bfte installed on a 40 series. Is there a kit available and what kind of manual transmission. How much modification?thx

Those are incredible engines. More popular is to buy the 15BF and then add turbo if desired. I hate facebook, but there is a group there all about 15BF(T) swapping. Lots of good info. This is my number one pick for a updated engine swap into any cruiser.
 
Those are incredible engines. More popular is to buy the 15BF and then add turbo if desired. I hate facebook, but there is a group there all about 15BF(T) swapping. Lots of good info. This is my number one pick for an updated engine swap into any cruiser.
ok thank i just join the face book. I looked at the specs to compare:
12ht 4.0L, 134hp @ 3500, 232ft-pd @1800
1HD-FT 4.2L, 164hp @ 3600, 280ft-pd @ 1400
1HD-FTE 4.2L, 202hp @ 3400, 317ft-pd @ 1400
15BFTE 4.1L 153hp @ 3200, 282ft-pd @ 1800
looking at the performances of these engines the 1HD-FTE has the highest performance. I have a 10,000 pound rig. Looking at the performance alone I would think the 1HD-FTE is the best choice. Especially if i do the performance upgrades.
The 15BFTE is interesting to me because it is on trucks and busses that weight about 7000 pound. The comparison between my current engines 12ht to the 15BFTE is very close.
It seem to me that if I make an engine switch looking at the performance alone the 1HD-FTE would be the best choice.
My questions; Why would i choose the 15BFTE over the 1HD-FTE?
I am also trying to find out what would be the performance on my 12ht if I do the performance up grades that are suggested in this thread earlier. It is an old engine and it has done me well, but parts are going to be harder and harder to find. Thx
 
All of those engines are going to disappoint you in stock form in your vehicle. Maybe less so the 1hdfte. All of them can be "tuned up" to a performance level that will make you happy, including your 12ht. It's whether they will last long producing a high amount of torque which is really what you want to find out?

Are the stock performance figures a guide to the strength of the engine, and the amount you can safely "tune" them up to? The 1hdfte in the 79series ute has lower performance figures than in the 100series, is this because toyota thought the lower performance motor would survive better when being used for heavy towing and a heavy gvm? Back when the 100series was produced, overlanding and touring wasn't as mainstream as today, so they probably didn't envisage the 100series to be viewed quite how people today might.

With your vehicle being so heavy, you're going to be "using" your performance more than most.
 

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