Which Alternator - April 2020 Edition (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 22, 2017
Threads
13
Messages
103
Location
USA
I have open the multiple threads on alternators for the 100-series.
Although I've read them, I still have questions.
I'm about to order a replacement via RockAuto.com

I wanted to do the "Sequoia alternator upgrade", because other than electric-chair candidates, who doesn't want more amps!?

Yet I am unsure which year the Sequoia alternator to order.
2009 Sequoia has two engines, 4.7 and 5.7
I assume the 4.7 is the same engine as my 2000 LandCruiser (actually an LX470, yet same s*** different badge).
I checked the 5.7 engine alternators, and they come more beefy (up to 180 amps), yet the plug is on a completely different place (off to the side).

So if I wanted the highest amp alternator that will fit a 2000 LandCruiser, which one should I order?

Thank you!
 
I think the 1st gen Tundra comes in a 150 amp variety? You didn't say your model, i think the 100 series came with alternators ranging from 100 to 130, if I'm not mistaken...
 
Go to the denso website > Find my part > enter any Sequoia with the 4.7L engine > Select the 150A model > buy from reputable local shop.

 
and with the 150A sequoia you need the proper connector that will need to be soldered/crimped in place of the old one that will no doubt fall apart as you remove it


crap or is it this one...

 
Looks like the second plug.

So dumb question, but what happens to the extra wire when going from the 3 pin rectangular style to the 4 pin square?
 
Looks like the second plug.

So dumb question, but what happens to the extra wire when going from the 3 pin rectangular style to the 4 pin square?

Would probably need to compare the electrical diagrams from the sequoia and the LX
 
snip short, fold over, and heat shrink over the nub. it goes to nothing
 
Any real reason NOT to upgrade to the 150amp version? Is the new harness/connector a hassle?
 
I don't see why not.

Here's another option that uses the old wire harness. 220 Amp Alternator - $183 - no core charge which is nice to keep the old.

Compared to Denso 210-1066 150 amp at $154 plus $70 core and plug, it might be worth a shot.
 
the only worry is existing age/condition of the main wire going back to the battery. it should either be in good condition or upgraded to a thicker gauge
 
that 220A seems interesting but most around here only stick to OEM when possible and i want to know how they are pumping out an additional 120A out of the same casing as the stock alternator. they seem like a legit independent alternator shop but i have a lot of questions. the 220A would almost def require some degree of rewire for the mains. but its yet another possible option.

edit: that pulley looks smaller so maybe that is part of it.....
 
that 220A seems interesting but most around here only stick to OEM when possible and i want to know how they are pumping out an additional 120A out of the same casing as the stock alternator. they seem like a legit independent alternator shop but i have a lot of questions. the 220A would almost def require some degree of rewire for the mains. but its yet another possible option.

edit: that pulley looks smaller so maybe that is part of it.....
I got their 250. Direct bolt on. Solid unit. Has been taking the beating my stereo is giving it for two and a half years. About 3k watts
 
i want to know how they are pumping out an additional 120A out of the same casing as the stock alternator.

edit: that pulley looks smaller so maybe that is part of it.....

Yeah no idea how it's done. Regarding the pulley, though, it looks about the same to me.

s-l1600.jpg


210-0565
 
I got their 250. Direct bolt on. Solid unit. Has been taking the beating my stereo is giving it for two and a half years. About 3k watts

How much wiring did you upgrade?
 
How much wiring did you upgrade?
2/0 flex welding wire:
Alt to battery
Engine block to chassis
Battery negative to chassis
Battery negative to engine ground.

alt is direct bolt on and plug and Play

did the the Hkb voltage booster too
 

Man I got a 175 from Mechman and it was plug and play. US made and can send back to be rebuilt but it has been awesome and solved all my charging problems on dual batteries and all my power drainage...

It was been under water alot and no issues....

Great people to deal with.
 
2/0 flex welding wire:
Alt to battery
Engine block to chassis
Battery negative to chassis
Battery negative to engine ground.

alt is direct bolt on and plug and Play

did the the Hkb voltage booster too

HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend this. Even if you just go stock alternator the wiring is anywhere from 22 to 13 years old..
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom