Where to get new front diff?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 5, 2020
Threads
5
Messages
16
Location
Arkansas
I was driving down the interstate yesterday and blew my front diff. I was still able to drive it to a shop The shop I took it do said that a seal broke and the fluid drained out. They said it may be repairable or may not but won’t know unless they take it apart.

What would my best option be? I’m okay with buying a new one but I don’t know where to start. Thanks in advance.

It’s for a ‘00 if that helps
 
Odd. Even if the pinion seal or one of the side seals blew, I think you would still have some oil in the bottom of the diff to prevent it from burning up. Was this a Land Cruiser shop? What was their process for determining the diff was toast? What were your symptoms?
 
Odd. Even if the pinion seal or one of the side seals blew, I think you would still have some oil in the bottom of the diff to prevent it from burning up. Was this a Land Cruiser shop? What was their process for determining the diff was toast? What were your symptoms?

It’s not a Landcruiser shop, just a local place. I’m not sure exactly what they did to come to the conclusion. The symptoms I had was that I was was driving down the interstate and all of the sudden it felt like the brakes were pressed firmly, I heard a sort of whine then a pop. I could still drive it but I was getting a nasty grinding sound coming from underneath.

Before I stopped to look, I thought I was dragging the driveshaft on the ground but everything was still put together. I did notice a burnt metal smell but I didn’t see any leaks.

The shop originally thought it was the transfer case before they got it up on a lift and looked at it today.
 
all of the sudden it felt like the brakes were pressed firmly, I heard a sort of whine then a pop.
That does sound like it could be the diff. The fact that you could still drive it without engaging the CDL pretty much rules out CV axle or hub flange...
 
So whenever work is done then something else nearby breaks it’s suspicious. Not criticizing, but it’s an interesting data point to consider.

Did you do the work or was it done somewhere else?

You said there were no leaks, but at interstate speeds if “a seal broke and the fluid drained out” it would make quite a mess.

Was the diff fluid drained when the CVs were replaced? If so, was it refilled? Was this the first time you drove on the interstate (i.e. fast) since the axles were replaced?
 
Last edited:
That’s the exact same thing that happened to me , it was the c clips. It was after doing my wheel bearings, I’m a clown and didn’t use new ones.
 
Agree -doubtful its CVs or flanges as they are new but its easy quick check- Remove grease cap and check c-clip and axle stub condition, also get under the truck and check for play in the CV axle- up/down, in/out.

Check diff gear oil: Remove fill plug and check gear oil level- should be with in reach of your finger. Then drain gear oil and look for bits of gear.
 
did the axle side oil seals get replaced with the new CVs? we got a real whodunit!! or whodidntdoit!!
 
Yeah I am wondering if the new axles weren't installed properly (not seated properly or whatever) and so something came loose while driving.
Fact that he was still able to drive after sound and whatnot definitely indicates that CV/hub flanges are likely NOT the culprit. But wondering if something got sheared off because c-clips wasn't installed on diff side of axle OR wasn't full seated and that side worked out and caused issue.

As for the potential need for a replacement diff, you have two options really:
1. Get a used diff from a rig out of a pull apart yard or from one of our vendors. If doing this, go for a later 4-pinion I think is the normal recommendation, or
2. Do the big go and install a locker in the front and be done with it.

Personally, I would go for #2 and do an Eaton/Harrop E-locker from Georg and then have them do the install and everything. But that all depends on where you are located.
 
Yeah I am wondering if the new axles weren't installed properly (not seated properly or whatever) and so something came loose while driving.
Fact that he was still able to drive after sound and whatnot definitely indicates that CV/hub flanges are likely NOT the culprit. But wondering if something got sheared off because c-clips wasn't installed on diff side of axle OR wasn't full seated and that side worked out and caused issue.

As for the potential need for a replacement diff, you have two options really:
1. Get a used diff from a rig out of a pull apart yard or from one of our vendors. If doing this, go for a later 4-pinion I think is the normal recommendation, or
2. Do the big go and install a locker in the front and be done with it.

Personally, I would go for #2 and do an Eaton/Harrop E-locker from Georg and then have them do the install and everything. But that all depends on where you are located.

Where in AR are you located? I recently completed a front diff upgrade to a Harrop E-Locker. If you are in the central AR area, I could show you how mine worked out.
 
Just as everyone else has suggested, it does look like improper axle side seal installation. In that case the place that installed you CV axles should get it right for you.

@gregnash pointed out the two best options you have for a replacement. For reference, earlier this summer I had a parts recycler ship a used front diff to Zuk @ gearinstalls.com and for addition $2000 (roughly) he installed a Harrops e locker in it and refreshed all the seals and bearings etc.

I do have a spare front diff if you end up buying one.
 
Just as everyone else has suggested, it does look like improper axle side seal installation. In that case the place that installed you CV axles should get it right for you.

@gregnash pointed out the two best options you have for a replacement. For reference, earlier this summer I had a parts recycler ship a used front diff to Zuk @ gearinstalls.com and for addition $2000 (roughly) he installed a Harrops e locker in it and refreshed all the seals and bearings etc.

I do have a spare front diff if you end up buying one.

Same here. They post a story about your build online if you like.


Then you can add an extra button for the front eLocker..

1600441640975.png
 
Same here. They post a story about your build online if you like.


Then you can add an extra button for the front eLocker..

View attachment 2439090
Add your build thread to your signature. You have so many cool upgrades that I just want to copy!
 
Add your build thread to your signature. You have so many cool upgrades that I just want to copy!


Let me do that.. Zuk will also post updates. I need to get him some current information. I'm too busy building to work on a build thread.

But I do have 100s of pictures for when I finally finish it.

When do we stop building?
 
Where in AR are you located? I recently completed a front diff upgrade to a Harrop E-Locker. If you are in the central AR area, I could show you how mine worked out.

I’m in central AR. It’s currently sitting at a shop in Cabot. Were you able to get your work done around here?


Just as everyone else has suggested, it does look like improper axle side seal installation. In that case the place that installed you CV axles should get it right for you.

@gregnash pointed out the two best options you have for a replacement. For reference, earlier this summer I had a parts recycler ship a used front diff to Zuk @ gearinstalls.com and for addition $2000 (roughly) he installed a Harrops e locker in it and refreshed all the seals and bearings etc.

I do have a spare front diff if you end up buying one.

I will get in touch with the shop that installed the CV axles. They seem to be a likely culprit since I had the front diff fluid changed out a month ago. The shop it’s at said the diff may be repairable but I think it might be best to just get a new one. I’m sure I’d still gonna have to pay labor cost even if they can’t repair it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom